Braked 25-06?

JellyCannon

New member
Has anyone got or shot a 25/06 with a muzzle brake? I'd like to get one so that I can see my shots, I just need to now whether a brake will allow me to this in this calibre.
 
I'm sure a good brake would make a 25-06 kick like a baby. I have a 300WM with an APA little jimmy brake pushing 215gr Bergers at over 2800fps and I can easily spot my own shots. That said, a big part of it for me is getting straight behind the rifle. Hope this helps...
 
A good brake will help tremendously in spotting your shots. Ross Schuler brakes are probably the most effective brake for the price. Check them out.
 
Originally Posted By: JellyCannonHas anyone got or shot a 25/06 with a muzzle brake? I'd like to get one so that I can see my shots, I just need to now whether a brake will allow me to this in this calibre.

Will a brake work on a .25cal? If you're talking about a hunting gun, of course. Why wouldn't it? There's nothing extraordinary about a .25. Mine are shot off bags with lots of scope power and they hardly move. The .257AI rockchuck gun has a heavy untapered barrel with brake.....goes bang and just sits there, very nice to shoot. And a .257Wby.....long heavy barrel braked, with the scope cranked to 32x I can watch rockchucks explode. A hunting weight 25-06 with brake and probably using much less scope power than 32x, you'll be able to see hits just fine.
 
I put a brake on a 257 Ackley for my daughter. Gun was a light weight custom on a Mauser action and the brake worked well.
 
Thanks Ackman, that's the experience I hoped for. Haha, I knew that a brake would work on a 25-06, I just didnt know how well and if it would reduce recoil enough to be able to spot hits. I haven't any experience with muzzle brakes, I haven't even seen one in person.
The Brake I'm planning on getting is a HSS SXT Gen II brake that clamps on, its had very good reviews so far and I'm excited to see how it performs on my Tikka T3 SS Varmint.
 
Personally, I would get the barrel threaded and get a screw-on brake. I'm sure the clamp-on will work, I just don't like the idea of them. Plus, if I get the chance to move to a state that allows suppressors, my barrel will already be threaded. Post some pics of your rifle with whichever brake you decide!
 
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Will do Rocky! Suppressors are excessively restricted here in Aus, if i want one I have to prove it to a court that I need one. It's $300 just to get the muzzle threaded, then a $200-$300 brake on top of that, hence the reason for the clamp-on brake that costs $175.
 
It will have zero felt recoil. I have a titan SJC three gun brake on my 300 win mag and it darn near pulls the rifle off your shoulder when it goes off.
 
Yes.. I have a 257AI w/brake and as noted by others you can spot your hits thru the scope. With that said, I use hearing protection on the bench and when hunting. I have often said "you might fire this once without it". Its loud and will ring your ears good.
B..
 
No plans on shooting this rifle with or without a brake with no hearing protection, thanks for the feedback everyone. I was worried when I posted this I was gonna get the general "muzzle brakes are for [beeep], if you can't handle it get another calibre!" Type answers so thank you
smile.gif
 
First, great choice with the 25-06. Barrel lenght and weight along with field of view in your scope will help to see your hits when hunting. My first 25-06 was a 700 sps and with 100 grain Nosler BTs it would jump enough that when I shot a coyote I loose sight of it. You would hear the thump and then be trying to find it in the scope. Shooting a heavier 25-06 with the scope turned down to between 4 and 8 you can watch all the action now.

In regards to brakes, when the barrel is turned down and threaded it should be indexed off the bore. I bought a brake a few weeks ago from a guy (he makes them) and he said that the bores on some brands of rifles are not perfectly centered to the outside of the barrel. So he has had some do it your selfers turn down the outside and thread the barrel only to find the hole in the brake is not perfectly aligned to the rifle bore.

This makes me question a clamp on brake with the proper size hole. There is an amount that the hole is suppose to be bigger than the caliber. I believe as you go bigger the brake is less effective.
 
Here's hoping that Tikka/Sako make there bore concentric to the barrel! I haven't heard of any incidents with them, they also have calibre specific bushings in them which makes me think that they may have accounted for slight misalignments when the bore is cut/formed.
 
JellyCannon, I remember you saying in other posts that anything firearm related is excessively expensive in Australia. I kind of figured that would also relate to gunsmithing work like barrel threading and brakes in general so I understand wanting the cheaper clamp-on brake. As Bowlseye stated, you want the hole on the brake to be no more than .02" larger than the caliber diameter (.243=.263 muzzle brake hole). Most caliber specific brakes should already be sized accordingly, you just have to worry about ones that require opening up to coincide with your caliber. Witt Machine clamp-on brakes are obnoxiously big so I think you'll be happy with the HSS.
 
I have done many....and tested many.. Pm me for details of my test...
Getting " see the hit" shots with a 25-06 will be a challenge.. You will need light bullets and a heavy rifle. A good brake will give you really good recovery for follow up shots.
 
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