I'm wanting some suppressor wraps but WOW are they pricey. I've got a grandma who can do just about anything with a needle and thread and would be thrilled to have a project to take on.

I can buy small pieces of Nomex (or similar material) for the exterior. Fire resistant thread is easy to find as well. The question I have is what would you use to insulate it and/or put on the inside?

My original thought was to make a "sandwich" of Nomex-Welding blacket-Nomex.

What say you?

I was thinking about doing the same thing...

What's your goal? Protection during storage, protection during firing, heat dissipation/performance, camouflage concealment, user heat shielding protection, etc?

What you've described will work for SOME purpose, but will have negative attributes for other purposes.

What would the negatives of it be? I know that this will keep heat in and slow down cooling but that's not a huge deal to me. 95% will be on hunting/target shooting. No mag dumps or really long strings so I should be good to go on that front!

#1 is mirage "blocking". Camo, protection, easy handling will all be awesome bonuses!

I'm thinking that this stuff would work well.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-t2g_qL7MM

I just can't figure out what material I should have in contact with the can and what I should insulate it with.... I feel some trial and error coming on.

Carbon X is the stuff used in the Elite Iron suppressor covers. It's a great material, but the way you wanna layer it is as follows.

Inside - carbon x
insulation - Nomex
outside - 500-1000D codura

If you think you can do it...go ahead, but there is a reason people charge $50+

You need a SERIOUSLY heavy duty machine to punch though that thickness of stuff, and making one by hand won't last as long as you think it will.

Not a very skilled seamstress (or seamster? what do you call a guy that sews?) if a machine throws a better stitch than you can by hand.

And it really doesn't take that much of a machine to punch through thick stuff. I've been making 'thick stuff' for almost 20yrs. It takes a big motor, but all you really need is a $10 garage sale Kenmore machine from the 70's or earlier with an all metal drive. If your motor won't hack it, then just bolt up a hand crank to the drive wheel and you can crank out a can cover in a matter of minutes (the hand crank isn't necessary for torque, just helps your fingers and wrist not get so worn out twisting the drive by hand). Now that I'm older and have a bit more disposable income, I have a couple nice industrial machines to do my heavy work (two cobra digital's, an unlabeled industrial canvas cabinet machine I got at an estate auction, a 19th century singer Treadle, and a Tipman Boss), but I've sewn miles of seams through codura, impregnated canvas, Kevlar, all sorts of leathers, foam rubber backed saddle seats, neoprene, spectra, etc etc with nothing more than hand-me-down old consumer grade 'hobby machines'. Only a matter of going at a reasonable pace, feeding the material properly and give your needle time to cut instead of ram.

Is $35 pricey?

Bowers Griptastic

Nope, and I just bought one to test it out by comparison to my TAB O2 Cloak.

It's an effective burn prevention tool, but it's not much for a mirage shield. It's too difficult to slide on and off during shooting strings which is the main benefit to a mirage shield.
Rip off 10-15 rounds and slide the Cloak back onto your barrel to let your can get some air.
When you're ready to shoot again, just slide it back onto your suppressor and you're ready to roll.
You will have a VERY hard time doing this with the Bowers Griptastic. When it's on...it's ON.

The OP said pricy, I was just checking his $ comfort level and offering an option...

I run bowers and TAB on my suppressors. I like the tab a little better and run it on my ti can. The bowers are priced right and help protect from scratches.

Tony Burkes CEO of T.A.B gear, makes the covers we run, made here in the U.S.A. Spendy, to some. Worth it? to all.