Question about muzzle brakes?

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FairChase93

Active member
I recently back ordered one of the new Ruger American Predator rifles in 6.5 Creedmoor. The predator versions of the American line come pre-threaded with 1/2×28 threads at the muzzle. Now I have never owned any kind of muzzle device in the past. What I want to know is can I simply buy a muzzle brake threaded 1/2×28 that is bored for 6.5mm and screw it on and start shooting? I spent quite a but of time searching for a muzzle brake with these specifications last night and came up empty. Any help or links would be appreciated.
 
Originally Posted By: FairChase93 I recently back ordered one of the new Ruger American Predator rifles in 6.5 Creedmoor. The predator versions of the American line come pre-threaded with 1/2×28 threads at the muzzle. Now I have never owned any kind of muzzle device in the past. What I want to know is can I simply buy a muzzle brake threaded 1/2×28 that is bored for 6.5mm and screw it on and start shooting? I spent quite a but of time searching for a muzzle brake with these specifications last night and came up empty. Any help or links would be appreciated.

If the break has uniform ports all around, then you can pu it on like it is.

If the break is directional, like a harmonic, clam shell, or JP, then you will need what is called a "Peelable washer" so the break can be aligned with the ports pointing in the proper direction.

The washers are cheap and available from any AR-15 parts dealer.
 
Thanks for the info Catshooter. I have another question, what if I purchased a muzzle break built for a 308 and threaded the same. There are lots of available options with these because of the AR/tactical market. Would an over bored muzzle break be effective? Or not even worth my time?
 
Originally Posted By: FairChase93Thanks for the info Catshooter. I have another question, what if I purchased a muzzle break built for a 308 and threaded the same. There are lots of available options with these because of the AR/tactical market. Would an over bored muzzle break be effective? Or not even worth my time?


Yeah... it will be effective, just not as much - look at the JP breaks - dog-ugly, but the most effective breaks around - do remember that other shooters and people on your sides are not going to like your break one little bit!!
 
I will look into the JP. Thanks again. For the most part other shooters are not an issue where I shoot but I'll keep that in mind if the rifle ever goes hunting on our 2 man contest team. Since the rifle comes threaded I figured I'd give a brake a try. Thanks again.
 
Quote:The predator versions of the American line come pre-threaded with 1/2×28 threads at the muzzle.

You should have 5/8"-24 threads on your 6.5 creedmoor, just a heads up before you buy a brake
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Turns out I read the spec sheet wrong when I ordered the rifle. It's 5/8×24 thread on the 6.5 Creedmoor. That simplifies things and explains why I couldn't find what I was looking for. That JP sure gets a lot of good reviews.
 
I have the JP recoil eliminator brakes on my 223 AR and also on my LR-308 AR. As catshooter said looks odd but they are the most effective brakes on the market. My 223 AR DOES NOT come off target at all. Ignorant to people around you but worth it.
 
Buy one for a 22 caliber and have it bored out. They are most effective when they are the right size. You should know that there is no free lunch...the muzzle brake will stop things like recoil and muzzle rise but it comes at a price that to many shooters is just not worth it. The terrible back blast you will get might cause you to flinch. Sure, ear protection will stop it from popping your ears but the shock wave of gas being redirected can be tough to get used to. The above posts even make it sound like the only one that wont like it is the guy shooting next to you...yep, and he is second to the guy pulling the trigger when it comes to all that back blast!! Who is closer, you or the guy ten feet to your right?? To me, I would rather just take the recoil and if it's too much get a different gun. The whole muzzle brake concept sounds like "all ya gotta do" is put the thing on and enjoy no recoil and no muzzle flip with no consequences...but it don't work like that. You cant stand hunting with one unless you hunt with ear plugs. I will say that as claimed above the JP Eliminator absolutely kills all recoil. You could watch the bullet impact with a big heavy magnum...if you don't blink from the back blast. Already having threads on the end of a barrel can make it seem like the thing to do but, well...you can drive your car with you feet if you want to, but that don't make it a good idea.
 
I'd have to agree. I've shot many rifles with muzzle brakes and or a flash hider of some sort and don't like any of them for the noise reason alone. I'll take the recoil instead. The only thing I like screwing on the end of my barrels is a suppressor.


Too bad they don't make the levang comp in a 5/8-24. I really like mine on my AR before I got my can.
 
I really don't consider my self recoil sensitive so I may forgo the break. Then again I might try it just to get some first hand experience with it because I'm stubborn and hard headed like that. I mean I need at least one rifle with a break to fit in with the new age tactical crowd right......
What I probably should do is just finally order a suppressor and be done with it. I've been talking to some of the local suppressor company's I just haven't been able to pull the trigger on one yet.
 
JP shoots at our range, testing different loads/twists etc. When he's there I make sure to be many benches away, really as far away as I can. Too much for me.....
 
I heard all these people tell me the same thing when I first posted about wanting a brake. All I can say is I'm really glad I didn't let anyone talk me out of it! I wouldn't put one on anything smaller then a Magnum Rifle shootiing 180g+ bullets, but they have their place.
 
Originally Posted By: FINNISHemJP shoots at our range, testing different loads/twists etc. When he's there I make sure to be many benches away, really as far away as I can. Too much for me.....

Completely agree. Muzzle brakes can be outright dangerous in the close-quarters settings of most rifle ranges. It is the shooters responsibility to make sure they do not injure people at the range.

Grouse
 
Brakes have their place. I shoot them on my big hand cannons. The only rifle I have it on is a 338 Lapua. They do piss the people off beside you. So I watch where I shoot them. I hunt with plugs or muffs anyway.
 
Brakes come in a lot of different designs. Some kick up dust in the shooters face, others don't. Some are annoying, some not. I've had them on 223s that hurt my ears with protection so I understand why some guys hate them. That one didn't last long. I've had one on a 3006 that while shooting prone kicks up some dirt because of the radial design. I have side ported brakes on a 243 and 7mm that are a pleasure to shoot. My 7mm allows me to watch my shots on 22x at 400yds. The 243 doesn't move and makes it easy for anyone to shoot. Had a buddies 8 yr old son hitting steel at 750 consistently. Brakes have their place.
 
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