Rock River Predator Pursuit Handgaurd Removal

TheGrinch

New member
Has anyone dealt with this. Im am trying to remove the stock handguard on the RRA Predator Pursuit to put on a MI freefloat handguard (lighter)

has anyone done it? and if so what tools, steps, and other parts may i need?
 
there is a tool made that will push the delta ring down. it can be done without the tool, but sometimes its a real bear. without the tool use you strong hand to pull down hard on the delta ring. it must be all the way down. with you other hand you can pop off one hand guard and then the other.
 
While I love it here on PM, I would suggest you go to www.ar15.com and browse there for instructions. They have many things pinned at the top of their boards, including complete assembly/disassembly instructions with detailed pics. I've learned a ton over the years just reading there.

But DON'T DRINK THEIR KOOL-AID !!!! (just kidding) Great bunch of guys there.
 
Originally Posted By: SlickerThanSnotthere is a tool made that will push the delta ring down. it can be done without the tool, but sometimes its a real bear. without the tool use you strong hand to pull down hard on the delta ring. it must be all the way down. with you other hand you can pop off one hand guard and then the other.

The Predator Pursuit has a free float handguard. That tool will not help him at all.
 
Originally Posted By: TheGrinchHas anyone dealt with this. Im am trying to remove the stock handguard on the RRA Predator Pursuit to put on a MI freefloat handguard (lighter)

has anyone done it? and if so what tools, steps, and other parts may i need?

If you're pulling a free float guard, you'll need a strap wrench to loosen it, and will need an armorer's wrench to remove the barrel nut unless the new guard will mount on the old nut (not likely). You'll have to pull the gas tube and replace it also. It's not difficult if you can follow instructions and have the proper tools, but it's not something that I would suggest you dive into without proper preparation. You'll also need a upper vise block and a torque wrench to properly secure that barrel after reinstall.

Like I said ... I'd strongly recommend you go to AR-15.com and review their instructions and videos before you decide to do this. MidwayUSA also has a few vids on youtube.
 
Originally Posted By: Hidalgo You'll have to pull the gas tube and replace it also.

No need to replace the gas tube either. He will have to removed the gas block and tube but not replace it. Just reinstall the same one.
 
Originally Posted By: reb8600Originally Posted By: Hidalgo You'll have to pull the gas tube and replace it also.

No need to replace the gas tube either. He will have to removed the gas block and tube but not replace it. Just reinstall the same one.

It would depend on his FF tube length on whether the old gas block will work or not. I believe the MI comes in 12" or 15". If he has the 15", he'd need a low pro gas block to go underneath. The PP comes with a tall railed block.

He probably bought the 12" though, since he's trying to shave weight.

Assuming it is the MI SS FF handguard, it's already a full top rail. I might be tempted to put a smaller gas block on anyway if it was mine since he'll already have a full top rail.

And that handguard does come with a proprietary barrel nut also, so his current nut will have to come off.

*Edit, my comments on handguard length are assuming we're talking 20" PP, not 16", in which case you'd have same issues just 9" vs 12" handguard length

 
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Originally Posted By: Anton ChigurhOriginally Posted By: reb8600Originally Posted By: Hidalgo You'll have to pull the gas tube and replace it also.

No need to replace the gas tube either. He will have to removed the gas block and tube but not replace it. Just reinstall the same one.

It would depend on his FF tube length on whether the old gas block will work or not. I believe the MI comes in 12" or 15". If he has the 15", he'd need a low pro gas block to go underneath. The PP comes with a tall railed block.

It will make a difference on the block but not the tube. I stated he didnt need to replace the tube.
 
I have done this.
Remove the gas block by loosening the set screws. With a little tapping/twisting the block and the attached tube will come off. Watch your gas tube,so that you don't bend it.

There is a locking ring/locknut at the base of the tube. Find a slot in it and I used a flat tip screwdriver and a light hammer to back the ring off of the tube.
With the lock ring backed off, the tube will spin off by hand.

The barrel nut can be removed with an armorer's wrench with the upper in a vice using the proper upper receiver clamp.

Re installation is pretty much the opposite while using the MI wrench which comes with their handguard as it uses a proprietary barrel nut. Observe recommended torque values.
You'll have to line up the gas tube with the proper hole in the barrel nut and after that fit the handguard to make sure the top is flush with upper receiver and to make sure the alignment tabs line up.
 
Originally Posted By: CrazyHorse66Re installation is pretty much the opposite while using the MI wrench which comes with their handguard as it uses a proprietary barrel nut. Observe recommended torque values.


The wrench that comes with the MI tube is junk. I stripped mine out almost immediately. As for the nut being proprietary, my armorers wrench fit the nut perfect.
 
Originally Posted By: reb8600Originally Posted By: Hidalgo You'll have to pull the gas tube and replace it also.

No need to replace the gas tube either. He will have to removed the gas block and tube but not replace it. Just reinstall the same one.

I wasn't CLEAR. I said he'd have to PULL and REPLACE the gas tube. Not get ANOTHER gas tube.
rolleyes.gif
 
In my research it has been advised to heat the FF tube and barrel nut to break the Loctite bond and then let it cool so the differing expansion of steel and aluminum does not bind the connection up. It made sense to me.
 
thanks guys, i do have the 16 inch, and went with a 12 inch MI and got a low pro gas block to go under it. i heard about the locktite thing too, and heating it up to loosen and help crack that bond. Ive looked a little on ar15 but the guys their seem to be all over the place with everyone having their own ways to do things.

CRAZYHORSE- im guessing you have this upper or have worked on one, i heard spanner type wrench is what i need but im trying to ovid buying a tool i only need once and the slots on that nut are [beeep] tiny. did the screwdriver method mess up the nut on there?
 
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Rock river has a wrench that fits the lock/jam ring on the back of the tube. I think the yankee hill wrench is the same also. They are cheap, get ya one.
 
Originally Posted By: TheGrinchdid the screwdriver method mess up the nut on there?

RRA-16_Predator-upper.jpg


Using the screwdriver to back off the locking ring may mar the finish and leave a little ding. You don't have to whale on it.
Just a solid tap or two to back it off the tube.
You can touch the mark up with a sharpie and you'll hardly notice it.

Since you're adding a low pro gas block, you'll have to drive out the roll pin that holds the gas tube in the block.
You can do that before or after removing the old gas block.
 
im guessing you have probably figured out how to take it off by now, considering its been about 2 weeks.

BUT, i just put mine back on about a month ago, and if i remember correctly mine just spun off like an oil filter on a car.
 
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