Stretcher Board Discrepencies and Tanning

Threewisemen

New member
I want to get into tanning this fall/winter and was curious about a few things. Before you read anything understand I'm looking for guidance and not advice. I understand tanning takes years to master and it would be easier to have a taxidermist/tannery handle all the work. It would also be easier if I sat in my recliner and watched football every weekend, but I won't be. If you want to learn something there's no better time to start than now.
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I have 2 different topics of questions, the first being that I've seen some discrepencies in the size of stretcher boards people use. I will be making and/or buying 2 this summer (one for bobcat size and one for wolf size). I've seen dimensions for wolf boards ranging from 13"-17" max width (and similar, but smaller discrepencies on the bobcat size). I doubt I would be selling my pelts (so sticking to NAFA offical sizes isn't extremely important, I just want them to look nice). I will be using the pelts as home decoration. I wanted to know if it makes sense to make an adjustable stretcher board that adjusts from 13"-17" depending on the size of wolf taken or if I should just use the recommended NAFA's guidelines at 13".


Second question is about tanning. Would you recommend anything besides Relaxing Agent, Pickling Acid, Tanning solution, Tanning Oil, Salt, Baking Soda, and PH strips to get started? Would you recommend a degreaser for wolf and bobcat (or will diluted dish soap do fine)? I was also curious about a blood remover; is it really necessary or will simple washing and proper procedure in taking care of the pelt be fine? Lastly what do people consider to be a good knot to tie up any small holes?

Thank you for the help!
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It all depends on how big your animals are to determine the proper width. 40" cats and bigger should be 9-10" wide at the base. 35-39 should be 8" and 34 and down should be 7" wide. Borax cleans blood really well. No idea about wolves.
 
Seems like a lot of people use the adjustable Otis boards for cats, so that's what I was probably going to go with. Thank you for the specific width recommendations for the lengths and the Borax info!
 
I make my boards using NAFA guidelines. I have a Youtube video that walks through making them with a 92" 2x4
It's hard to tell where to start with the advice since I don't know what your skill level is.. I made my video because i was trying to learn how to skin, flesh, stretch hides to sell, and couldn't find anything on Youtube and when i did the best i could with what was available, it turned out bad. So i made these with the starter in mind.
For getting blood out, i just use the shampoo. It also gets the greece out, and helps the hair comb smooth.

Do you already skin and put up the hides to sell? Some of your initial questions make me think you are new to it, and some don't, so i can't give you guidance without a better understanding.

As of for knots, when i sew up the hide, i use a running stich, like a baseball. It's easy and fast. I get the needle from the womens sewing store, i get the thinest one that i can get the unwaxed floose through, I then also bend that needle into an smooth arc and use my small needle nose pliers that i have for just skinning.
 
Originally Posted By: Tbone-AZDo you already skin and put up the hides to sell? Some of your initial questions make me think you are new to it, and some don't, so i can't give you guidance without a better understanding.

Helped an oldtimer run a small trapline for a few seasons fifteen years ago, but that was mostly for small furbearers and all wire stretchers. I watched him tan, but never got too involved because I was a teenager and never got paid for helping with that part. I'm fine skinning, stretching, turning ears and splitting, but now I'm going after bigger stuff (and I'm finding out it's a lot different than muskrats).
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Well then I really don't have a lot for you.

I know how to do it, for when i need to.. Hoping that it doesn't come to that.
But as for tanning other than just for personal use and novelty, I prefer to send the pelts in to Moyles in Idaho, for $25 per coyote, it just isn't worth the time and money for the chemicals I would have to buy, store, and use.
It takes a lot of effort to do it, and it's time consuming and that means that at the price they are charging, it's just not worth it to me for anything that isn't what I said above.
 
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