Barrel nut on a LR-308?

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Anyone ever replace the factory barrel nut on a DPMS LR-308?
I am trying to remove it, to install a FF tube barrel nut,
and the factory nut is acting like it is "welded" in place.
Clamped in a vice, in an armorers block, with an armorers
wrench on the nut, it will not budge. Even some hits with a
dead blow hammer on the armorers wrench won't break it loose.
Maybe heat? Or just more leverage?

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Originally Posted By: cedarcreekcoonerIf the wrench has a spot for a 1/2 inch breaker bar use that.

It does. I think I will chain the breaker bar to the
Kubota front end loader! I did some digging on internet
searches and found out that DPMS uses Loctite, and recommends
heat. I am not fond of the idea of heating the barrel to
break the barrel nut loose. I will try a 1/2" breaker bar
before I put a torch on it.

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Originally Posted By: cedarcreekcoonerI changed the nut on a DpmS once and broke the wrench trying to get it off. I would use a CaseIH tractor loader if I were you

John Deere will do for sure lol good luck..
 
I remember when I changed mine. I didn't apply any heat and DID get it, but remember thinking that I was going to break my hand when it came loose. I believe I had a "cheater" on there.
 
the loctite is on the receiver and barrel nut. apply the heat to the barrel nut. it wont hunt the barrel to use some heat. it does not have to be red hot. if it is red loctite or similar, heat is your best bet.
 
I have only had a dozen or so of the DPMS 10-based uppers apart and none of them had lock-tight, but they did come apart hard. Apply heat to the barrel nut and it will pop off.
 

A little heat did the trick. New Troy TRX rail is on the
rifle. It took me a couple of tries get it mounted, but it
is now on the LR-308. I like the slimmer, lighter, hand
guard. As soon as the new Magpul grip gets here, the
transformation from a LR-308 to MY-308 will be complete.
grin.gif


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