question on ejecting the brass

Coyotejunki

Coyotejunki

Well-known member
I just put together a 17-223 AR15, using a Shilen 1-9 twist, SS barrel.

It is 21" long and uses a midlength gas tube.

What is the normal ejection of brass? Should it eject at say the 2 o'clock position or 5 o'clock, or does it matter? I thought I read somewhere that one of those was a sign of too much pressure and maybe an adjustable gas block might be needed? Luckily all my brass ejects and feed just fine so far.
 
as far as I know swipes on the case head is when an adjustable block can help.

I also have a 17-223, what load combo are you shooting from yours?
 
I just started with it. I am still looking for loads. It is my understanding that the 17-223 has slightly more volume the the regular 17 Rem. I just ran a couple test with H4895 and Varget with 25gr HP's.
 
Yup, im in the same boat and yes. slightly more volume than 17rem. Im also using 25gr hornady but I started with ar comp since its pretty close to varget but the speed is just not there for me, not exactly slow but I think it should do better.

Going to be trying 8208xbr since I have some of that.
 
I'm ejecting at the 2 o'clock position so I may have more gas than needed. I think I have an M16 BCG on this one, if not I know I have one on another rifle, and will give that a try.

Doesn't seem very easy to get reload data on this cartridge. Hodgdon only has a few loads and it looks like they load lighter than the 17 Rem.

The search here or Saubier doesn't get me much, I'll keep trying.
 
A lot of companies make the gas ports too big, which gives reliable cycling. But is more than needed. I think too big of gas ports can cause swipes with lesser powder charges in load development. Adding weight to the system helps but a adjustable gas block gets more to the root of the problem.
 
The AGB will cut down on the early opening. The swipes are an indicator of that. It he use of an AGB will also increase the number of usable powders for handloading. Tuning for ejection it so much easier with one.

Greg
 
" Luckily all my brass ejects and feed just fine so far "

That's more important than where your brass is landing. It's also possible that the brass is ejecting at 5:00 (probably unlikely) and bouncing off the deflector on the upper.

As long as my AR's have fed, gone bang, and ejected 100% I don't really care where the brass goes. That and as long as they land in the same spot rather than landing everywhere from 1:00 to 6:00, that would make picking up brass a real pain if you reload (and don't have a catcher).

You could try the heavier buffer or an AGB.
 
My .17-.223 AR is 22" long BHW barrel. It ejects at 2 o'clock.
Function over form. Don't really want to add heavier components. Can I switch the gas block without removing the handguard?
 
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Originally Posted By: cmatera My .17-.223 AR is 22" long BHW barrel. It ejects at 2 o'clock.
Function over form. Don't really want to add heavier components. Can I switch the gas block without removing the handguard?

Yes it is possible to install an adjustable gas block without removing the hand guard. The only problem would be if your hand guard covers it.
Black Hole barrels have a dimple on the bottom to make getting the gas block aligned a snap.
I use an adjustable gas system on all of my uppers. They may not need it, but if they do the adjustment is already built in. The extra cost to go adjustable is about $20.00 more. A worth while investment in my opinion.
 
Originally Posted By: R JohnsonOriginally Posted By: cmatera My .17-.223 AR is 22" long BHW barrel. It ejects at 2 o'clock.
Function over form. Don't really want to add heavier components. Can I switch the gas block without removing the handguard?

Yes it is possible to install an adjustable gas block without removing the hand guard. The only problem would be if your hand guard covers it.
Black Hole barrels have a dimple on the bottom to make getting the gas block aligned a snap.
I use an adjustable gas system on all of my uppers. They may not need it, but if they do the adjustment is already built in. The extra cost to go adjustable is about $20.00 more. A worth while investment in my opinion.

I agree, as long as your hand guard is not covering the gas block you will be able to swap it out without removing it. I align my blocks by setting the upper upside down on a nice flat surface so the flat top is flat on the table and then place a shim between the table and the gas block so that the entire length of the flat top receiver is making contact with the table. Rotate the block so that its flat on your shim and tighten down. If you have a receiver/rail height gas block a shim will not be necessary.
 
I'm going to check it out. Reason I asked is, my handguard is a Clark's Custom carbon fibre and it's glued on. I would have to break it off.
 
I ordered an AGB and it came in the other day. Installed it this morning, then went down to the range to tune it up so to speak.

If I turned it all the way in it would not push the BCG far enough back to lock in then open position with an empty magazine installed, as expected. So I opened it a little at a time, about 1/4 turn, until the BCG stayed in the open position after each shot with an empty mag. Didn't take much. Now it ejects to about the 4 o'clock position and just feels smoother cycling, IMO.

I believe my groups did slightly get better too.
 
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