Stihl Chainsaw Recommendation

Steel City Archer

Steel City Archer

New member
I've leased a new farm in Adams County, Ohio and will start hinge cutting to create bedding areas soon.

Can any of you recommend a Stihl model chainsaw that has been reliable?

I don't believe I want more than an 18" bar. I don't want the weight of the saw to become an issue.

Any advice and/or recommendations would be great!

Thanks!

-SCA
 
They are all GREAT
Best thing is find sales and service close to farm
Go in and handle them for balance to YOU
Really like quick chain adjusters too
Get extra chains --- always seem to get dull when work to be done
Dedicate one gas can for mixed gas for chainsaws too
Have 3 stihl saws ----
Thanks
 
I see for the last few years or so they (Stihl) offer homeowners models, I have no experience with one of those, but will be my choice when time to replace the craftsmen.

The industrial duty 036 I used years ago was as reliable a chainsaw could be; never failed to start even in extreme cold.
 
I use them daily in my line of work and I believe a 260 would fit the bill perfectly. Not heavy at all and will last almost forever.
 
I've had a 16" model 024 for 20 years now. I cut 20+ cords of wood every year and the thing has been a champ.


Steve
 
If you are willing to spend about $550,00, get the 261 (new version 026) with the 16" bar. This is a pro model saw and will do most anything that you need it to do. It will outperform the cheaper saws and is a joy to operate.
If you need to spend less look at the 025 or the 029 (farmboss). They are both homeowner model saws but are very good saws for the money. The 025 is lighter than the 029, and not as powerful.
I own an 017, 025, 261, 036, and owned (wore out) an 029. For all but the biggest trees the 261 is my go-to saw.
 
I have a poulan pro 18" for my personal use and it has proven to be a fine saw. I have used 2 stihl saws that work has and although they are considered a much better saw I actually prefer my poulan. It is much easier to start, runs better and seems to cut just a well. The stihls are older and have a lot more hours on them and since they are the only ones Ive ever used I cant say if that is a factor or not but I do know they get sent to the repair shop for tune ups 1-2 times per year.
 
I bought a Farm Boss some years ago, IIRC, it was the biggest that could be had without going commercial. It was for cutting now and then, but had good power. Well the Ash die off here in Michigan put my wood cuttting into over drive ! I've put that saw through heck and back and still is running strong.

In hindsite, if I knew the tree die off was gonna be so bad , I would have gone to a commercial saw. They has more RPMs and cut like a beaver on crack !
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Go to a reputable Stihl Dealer, AND inquire about the extended warranty on purchase of Stihl oil.

I bought a Stihl MS 250 last fall, 18 inch bar, top of the line home use I believe, about $200 cheaper than a mid-line farm and ranch or commercial use saw. Hair less horsepower, little less torque, quite a bit lighter. And, I really couldn't see the extra expense for the amount of use I incurr with one. Unless you're planning on cutting a WHOLE LOTTA WOOD, it'll do everything you want to do.

http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/

The dealer offered an extended warranty for purchase of a six pack of Stihl Ultra HD oil to go with it...

http://www.stihlusa.com/information/warranty-service-info/engine-oil-double-warranty/

And, you gotta have oil! Nothing requires you to purchase Stihl oil after that initial purchase, nothing requires you to use that oil in it honestly; you just buy a six pack of their Ultra HD oil, and double your warranty. Which is much better than purchasing a warranty that you never use, and getting nothing but a receipt for it. I kinda thought that one was a no-brainer!!


As for the saw itself, my dad's got one he bought several years ago, and it has proven tough as nails! His hired man has one just like it that he bought for his own use; it's been plenty dependable as well. I inquired of a buddy that used to cut pulpwood, removed problem trees, did storm cleanup, etc. and he said it wasn't as bad as his Husky, but he ran one just like it for years limbing, cutting smaller trees, and such, and it was one BAD A$$ little saw!!


Mine gave me a little grief when I first started using it, tended to overheat with hard use, and would shut down soon as you went into idle, then it was a pain to start until it cooled down. Checked carb setting in the owner's manual, broke out the carb adjustment screwdriver supplied with the saw, and adjusted the carb. Likewise, put the 3/4 gallon of old mixed gas that was in my can, (was only a few months old, not even a hint of stale 2 stroke smell to it), in the tank on my mule to add a little upper cylinder lubrication and get rid of it, and mixed a new can of gas using the Stihl oil.

Haven't had a single problem since, it'll work you death without a single hiccup, cough, spit, or sputter! Starts much better too. While I was leaning toward old gas, or a piece of trash out the can of old gas, I honestly think the technician set the carb wrong when he set it up at the shop. The manual offered two settings, I checked to see which one it was set up for and finding it being the leaner of the two factory settings, I opted for the other. Has run great every since!!


 
Originally Posted By: Tim NeitzkeIf you used a newer or not worn out Stihl, you never use a Poulan again.

probably some truth to that. I wouldn't say the stihl saws ive use were worn out but they had been used and put up wet a time... or two.
grin.gif
I just don't use mine enough to justify the extra couple hundred bucks. Mine only sees use for cutting up fallen trees for fire wood to go camping but if I ever needed to use one more than 1-2 times per summer I would def. look into a better setup.
 
i used to have 7 sthils, now i just have 4.

i have run many different saws but would never buy anything other than a professional line stihl.

my 036pro that has been power ported has probably got around 1300 to 1400 run time hours on it and still has high compression.

my 044 was purchased in 1993, i did put a new piston and jug on it in 2001 (lost a crankshaft seal).

those 2 saws have felled and bucked more trees than any home owner user will cut in a lifetime!
 
Tim... I'd run the oldest, most ragged, worn out stihl before I would even pic up a Poulan to throw it away lol.. Stihl is more powerful and less vibration. When you keep one running from daylight til dark cutting logs you'd understand. Huskys are more durable but not quite as strong as a Stihl. The husky can be "hot rodded" easier but require more care and maintenance when you have them turning in excess of 13,500 rpm for.

I ran cutting contracts for several years and my personal saw was an 044. Bought it out of a pawn shop busted case and all for $225. Took it to local saw shop for case replacement $175 and cut logs with it for 4 years. Had that saw for a total of 14 years till someone decided that I didn't need it anymore. They stole it and all the Stihl weedeaters that I owned as well. They left the old poulan saw a guy gave me lol..

The 460 is a good choice in an inbetween commercial saw. Small enough for easier handling but still big enough to handle anything you would wanna do. At one time the 441 was known for breaking crankshafts due to a design flaw..

Just my humble extremely biased opinion lol..
 
Thanks guys for all the info.

I'm working out a deal with an owner of a local nursery as we speak.

He services everything he sells for free, which you won't find very often.

I'll let you know what I end up with!

Thanks!

-SCA
 
Well, bumping an older thread because I finally decided on a saw.

As mentioned in the OP, I am mainly looking to use the saw for hinge cutting and habitat control. I won't be cutting cords of firewood, but will have to tackle some storm clean-up and maintenance duties. For the most part, it will mainly be used to hinge cut and create bedding areas on the farm.

I wanted to buy a 16” model, but many of them you were topped out with a 16” bar. I opted for the Stihl MS251-CBE.

It isn’t “light weight” but it handles well. It has an 18” bar, but can use a 16” with more power easily. Many guys use this model with a 20” bar, but I feel that is pushing it. This model should handle anything I need.

Stihl MS251-CBE

I haven't had a chance to use it, but it will get a work out this weekend.

Once again, thanks for all the help.

As always, you guys rock!

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Last fall I bought my first Stihl a MS270 16" bar and yes I too bought the oil for another year warranty. I've only used mine a hand full of times as I wanted it for a smaller saw than my Jonsrud 20" pulpers saw I've had for 30 years. Getting older I wanted a lighter saw. I used to get a semi load of oak I'd cut into firewood for the stove every two years about 10 full cord on a truck. Now I'm in the woods cutting the trees. I'll see how the saw preforms.
 
I have run a saw more hours than anyone should... EVER.. Unless that is your daily job as a lumber jack.

I don't cut firewood, or just rarely do. I usually use my saw to cut up tree's for lumber for wood projects. This means that i spend most of my time not doing cross cuts, but rip cuts, going with the grain. I cut tree's into 3" thick 12.5" wide and 6 feet long for timbers to stack and dry.. Then i use them for furniture and stuff.
Some of the wood is so large and hard that it takes a whole tank of gas and a chain sharpening after each tank. I would spend an entire weekend for 8 hours a day standing there holding a saw.. Some people cut wood into firewood, but a truck load of firewood is between $100-$200, and ya people need that.. But a large hardwood tree where i live is worth $8/bf so my one piece 3"x 12" X 6' is worth $144

I found that you should look at what you are going to do, then look for a saw that will do that.. Then get the next size up or two.
If you think a saw with an 18" bar is good, get one that will easily run a 20" bar. A little extra weight is nothing when you have to hold the saw less when it runs faster and harder.. Like drag racing in a honda vs. a Porche.

I am currently running a Husky farm boss and have run that saw for more than 400 hours and its still running like a race horse, but wouldn't hessitate to get a sthil on sale.

One thing i recommend, no matter what you get is a blued steel saw chain. It's more expensive, but They stay cooler, and sharp for a lot longer. I have cut up 2 cords of juniper and Mesquite with one chain and haven't had to sharpen it yet. It's still just as sharp as when i put it on the saw.

I have two of these chains and will buy these going forward.
I also have thin kerf blades and bars for resawing to make it go even faster. Cutting down a 12" wide log for 6 feet takes a while with a hard wood, anything to make it go faster gets my attention.
One of the things that i have done is switched to the
 

I am with you on the 044 mine is a '99 model and just keeps on cutting, the horse power to torque ratio is the best. My wife limbs with a 230C carbide chain model, and it does a very good job. Buy professional models in chain saws. I hate the quick chain tighteners on the new models. Got to keep them chains sharp.



Originally Posted By: 6724i used to have 7 sthils, now i just have 4.

i have run many different saws but would never buy anything other than a professional line stihl.

my 036pro that has been power ported has probably got around 1300 to 1400 run time hours on it and still has high compression.

my 044 was purchased in 1993, i did put a new piston and jug on it in 2001 (lost a crankshaft seal).

those 2 saws have felled and bucked more trees than any home owner user will cut in a lifetime!
 
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