Cage Trapping Bobcats tips

mercer lawing

New member
This past season I got out of my comfort zone and did some trapping in CO. and above 6K ft in AZ.

I had a great time but had to prepare for more weather than I normally deal with.

One thing I did was waxed my cage doors and rails (guilotine cage traps). This seemed to help with freeze up from moisture in the the rails. The issue is that with the light weight of the doors, freeze-thaw conditions can stick your door in the rail. You may get there and find tracks in and out of your trap and even onto the pan and the door still up. If the sun is shining onto your cage you may find your door down and the cage empty because the frost thawed and allowed the depressed pan to set of the trap.

To wax the traps I actually built a pan large enough to dunk the entire front of my traps into the molten wax. This takes a lot of wax and expense building the tub. An alternate method would be to use a propane torch to pre-heat the cage parts and then drip the wax onto them by applying the flame to the block of wax. If you do it correctly it will look like you poured water on the part. You can "chase" any white thick wax away with the torch. A trapper from Reno Nevada who utilizes cage traps to work close to town shared this tip with me.

Are there many cage trappers on here?

ML
 
Dylan- are you saying that a swing door cage is better for bad weather and if so how?

What sorts of adjustments do you make for bad weather?

I would like to know and others may find it helpfull.

It is my desire to start a thread that would present ideas for others to help them on their lines.

ML
 
Yes sir,I am of the opinion after using both styles the swing door is better .I am also of the same opinion as thinkinthebox that a walk through trap is by far a better idea.I find in high wind and blowing snow the guillotine door makes noise and will fall from the wind or it will stick from melt and freeze conditions.
I know people that have success with them but the places that I trap and the methods I use the walk through works better for me.
best of luck to you.Dylan
 
I cover my traps with 32 gallon trash bags and spray silicone on the freeze points prior to season and then use Vaseline during season. I use Camtrips traps as well as other peoples cages and have freezing issues with ALL of them . By covering them and using the silicone spray and Vaseline it minimizes freezes. I also sweep the snow off of them and above them as soon as possible to help eliminate freeze thaw conditions.
 
I used cheapo walmart dinner candles with a propane torch to wax my tracks and the door edges that slide in them. It worked well and I dont think I had any frozen doors. I have a much harder time in the snow with the drop doors as snow builds up on them a lot more and it is more of a pain to get the snow out from in front of the cages. The snow has to be moved or the door wont shut. I have had zero problems with the guilotine doors being blown down. I also use cage covers but I use black painters plastic and pre cut a bunch to fit my biggest cage. I dont use it unless the cage is exposed to direct snow fall.
 
What about adding a thin piece of plywood as a roof, or something else on top of the cage? For those that trap, would this be feasible, especially if that folded up and was able to fit inside the trap for transport?
 
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Still would have snow blow in from the sides not to mention the extra weight and unwanted scent left on the wood after a catch.
 
Snow sucks but it sure makes the hair long!

The problem with many drop door traps is the light weight of the door. If I trapped CO more than the deserts I would weld 2 pounds or so of iron to the bottom of my door. This helps it break free from frost. For now I just wire a softball sized rock to the lower portion of the door. Some guys lean a branch on the top of the door from the back of the trap. I tried it and it bound the door up.

ML
 
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I used candle wax the first time and it flakes off too easy. regular trap wax worked better. I think it has a blend of bees wax and stuff that helps it stick to steel.

I am considering not painting my traps for this year. Just raw metal. Rust, die and wax like a foothold.

ML
 
Gentlemen,I in no way meant to down a fellow trappers way of doing things.Some like Fords some like dodge if it is working for you great.
I responded to a post and stated my opinion.I do realize each trap has good and bad to deal with .
good luck next year to all !
Dylan
 
I have used staight bees wax for years I rub it on my guilotines doors where it meets the rails, and on my slide rails on my byfold. I have never had them freze up after doing this. I also use just straight 3 in 1 oil on all releases, and hinge points, have never seen where a cat avoids the trap from it.
I cover mine with camo tarps, and bungi brush to the sides, and top.
I have had a little trouble with freezing of my pedals, but have found some anti freeze that O Gorman sells to solve this where it is a problem.
I can always revert back to an old triggering system that I used years ago if things get real bad.

I keep it pretty simple no paint on my traps except the pedals just keep the doors cleaned out, some times the double door is a blessing allows the wind to blow every thing out so when the cat shows in he goes!!!
 
Thanks for sharing.. I don't know anything about trapping, but hearing what different people have done, and learned, is very helpful.
 
Gene- I didn't see anyone get put down for their style cage.

I wouldn't mind talking about pros and cons about cage styles on another thread. It just seems like it always turns into a pi..'ing match.

I learned something else in Colorado and thank you Dan! Thermals go downhill at night! Face your trap downhill when you have a chance.

ML
 
Mr. Lawing Do you know Gene? I do I am very close to him.He wont even post or read most of this on the internet.
He is like you I guess lol. He said only at his age he cant peeee very far.
Have a great day.
Dylan
 
Mercer this is Gene and you should know I dont address you as sir or mr.
My grand son is respectful or at least we hope he is.You will not have to worry he wont reply to any of your posts again.
Gene
 
I might try the trap wax on the door parts this year. When I stored my traps for the year they still had alot of wax in the right place, but I didn't catch very many cats so my cages didn't get much wear.
 
Mr. Lawing, I really like your video. It has a lot of methods new to me. I can't wait to try them in OK and KS. I have both guillotine and drop down doors on my traps ( all homemade). I have had the most success with the guillotines but we don't typically have a lot of snow.

I just rub the bar of bees wax on the doors and moving parts. It has worked fine for me.

Thanks for all the tips. Johnny
 
Two years ago I was at the Globe convention in AZ. During a presentation by Clint Locklear he talked about saving the dirt from your set (foothold after a catch) and using it at your next set to make it (hot) right away. Of course I had heard of that as well but had never thought about it for caging. It makes perfect sense and have been doing it ever since.

As any cager who has caught a few cats knows- the second cat into a cage is the easiest cat to catch. All the catty smell just drives them crazy so why not use all that urine, feces and gland soaked dirt at your next set.

ML
 
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