17 Rem Barrel Options

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J.Mark,,,, no need for caps. We're all adults here.
Every one has their own idea about things, but anyone that has any experience with actually lapping barrels (not just read about it on the Internet or in a gun rag) will tell you lapping needs to be done with a lead slug BEFORE
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any cambering or muzzle work. Using abrasives on a patch will do more harm to the sharp edges of the lands than the smoothing out tool marks or what ever you're trying to smooth out.[/quote]

Sorry about the caps I hit the button by mistake and was to lazy to retype.My gun smith bore scoped my 22-250 and told me to use jb paste.Kindler told me that in 17's its very important to long accurate life.As for lapping with a lead slug I know nothing.Im no expert on the technical stuff.I sure don't want to damage my guns.I dont cosider competent gunsmiths to be equal to reading on the internet or gun rags though.If you can't believe the advice of a highly regarded smith than who do you believe?
 
Mr. RePete gave a very good description and account of how and why some members of the BR crowd started using Lock-Ease years ago as a last step in barrel cleaning.

One point that was not mentioned is the fact that L-E contains a rust inhibitor, and when you "paint" a barrel with it as the last step in cleaning, it does a great job of protecting a barrel from rust until the barrel is used again.

L-E is gone from a barrel after one or two shots are fired, so it is not like a barrel treatment or bullet application. Every cleaning requires a re-painting to get all of it's collective benefits.

I've used it for years on every rifle barrel I own, both CM and stainless, and FWIW, it has become a religious part of my barrel cleaning process. Not counting my very steep PM learning curve, I've actually used hunting rifles extremely hard in some very humid parts of the world that make a trip to the great wilds north of Detroit in pursuit of the wily white tail look like a trip to the local mall.
 
Originally Posted By: Winny Fan

One point that was not mentioned is the fact that L-E contains a rust inhibitor, and when you "paint" a barrel with it as the last step in cleaning, it does a great job of protecting a barrel from rust until the barrel is used again.

Thanks Winny,,,, that's the point I ment to get across when I said I use it in place of oil after cleaning but didn't elaborate. I couldn't have explained it as well as you did anywhooo.
Like you, I don't even buy oil anymore cept for a little Kroil to mix with SC.
 
Your explanation of it's use was one of the best I've ever read. I simply missed your comment on your limited use of oil. All said and done, L-E is good stuff in a rifle barrel.
 

So, if I understand right, Lock-Ease does not cause any pressure issues when shooting, and basically protects the barrel from rusting. Right? Do you put a good amount on a patch to swab the bore? Seems the patch would have to be soaked pretty good in order to coat the whole bore.

What about POI change on the first shot or two? Still accurate?
 
I just read a very good artical on gun cleaning from the archives.I dont know how to put the sight I found here but its from 6mmbr.com bore cleaning . I am going to change my cleaning methods and cleaners accordingly.The title of the post in the archives was (gun cleaning time to get serious)the link to the 6mmbr.com articles is on one of the posts on that title,I think on pg.4.
 
Originally Posted By: 6mm06
So, if I understand right, Lock-Ease does not cause any pressure issues when shooting, and basically protects the barrel from rusting. Right? Do you put a good amount on a patch to swab the bore? Seems the patch would have to be soaked pretty good in order to coat the whole bore.

What about POI change on the first shot or two? Still accurate?



It's graphite. Graphite makes things slide easier so how could there be more pressure?

One really wet patch followed by a dry one works for me. Spill a little and you'll see that it don't take much to go a LONG way.

Go back and read my post again. I'm pretty sure I said twice (and Winnie said once) that eliminating the cold bore flier is the main reason for using the stuff. Preventing rust is just a bonus that eliminates removing storage oil and coating with L-Ez before shooting. I doubt that I'd use it if I had to worry about that extra hassle anyway.

Just for the record, L-Ez has helped with cold bore fliers in "almost" every rifle I've used it in. I have however had a couple over the years that showed no improvement.

Boy,,, we sure have strayed from your original topic, haven't we.
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Soooo, when's that new rifle supposed to land?
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Yep, we strayed quite a ways from the original topic, but that's OK with me. Seems a lot of good information came out of my original post. That's a good thing. Learning and sharing is what it's all about.

I expect the new rifle sometime this week. I got an e-mail from the vendor stating the FFL had been received, so it shouldn't be long now.


 
I recieved my 200 17 rem. brass today.$18 shipping for that little box was a little steep,$144 for 200 brass,oh well at least I have them.That makes 400 17 brass,that will last as long as I have left unless I quit working and start playing for a living.
 

Glad you got the brass, J.Mark. You have a good supply, more than I do, but even though I am retired, I don't think I will use my 300 pieces up.

UPDATE ON THE RIFLE: I got an e-mail just a while ago stating that the shipping department, upon inspection as they were preparing to ship, found a large crack in the stock. The note said they are having to order from their distributor and it may take a few days before they get it. Talk about bad luck. At least they found the crack before shipping. Just hoping that's the truth, and also that the distributor has one in stock. I know of one member here who ordered one also after I informed him of them, and that left one more rifle. Apparently they sold that one too since they have to reorder.

 

UPDATE: Today (May 21) I received the rifle from my local dealer. It looks nice. The wood is a bit dark,
but has a swirl in the stock that is rather attractive. Also, the weight is not as heavy as I expected.
The barrel is definitely thicker, but the weight isn't so bad and won't be a problem as a carry rifle.






















This is the factory target. The bullet holes were so faint in appearance that I circled them in black.
If I read this correctly, the target was shot at 50 meters. The 3-shot group is 3/4", with the two
top hits being 3/8".

Hopefully with some tender loving care and feeding it what it likes, it will shoot better.




 
You got a nice piece of wood on that one 6MM. Congrats!
Hitting the CZ wood lottery isn't as common as it was a decade ago.
CZ's varmint contour is more of a medium contour. It's a good compromise IMO.
You're on your way now buddy.
Keep us posted.
 
That's a nice looking rifle. Now, get her scoped up and report back with those tiny little group pictures
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. I have a feeling there is going to be some rifle envy in the gun cabinet once you get this one going.
 

Yea, I'm pretty pleased with the rifle at this point. If it shoots as good as it looks, then I'll be happy.

DoubleUp and I have become good friends over time, correspond daily about this and that, and he just up and ordered one too, same thing, so we will be seeing his new toy within a day or two, hopefully.
 

UPDATE:

Well, yesterday I finally got to the loading bench for a bit of testing of my new toy, the CZ 527 .17 Remington.

I mounted a Leupold Vari-X 3, 4.5x14 A/O in Burris Zee Quick Detach Rings. I ordered low rings and they fit perfectly due to using the picatinny base that added a bit of height. The bolt clears well.

My loads consisted of Hornady 25 gr. HPs, with Xterminator powder. I began at 19.5 gr. and worked up to 21.0 gr., the max load listed in the Ramshots data. Bullets were seated at 2.210".

After a few rounds down the barrel, working up in powder charges, I settled in for two, 3-shot groups at a 94 yard range (my furthest range due to terrain).

Here's some photos of the project.

Picatinny base added.








Burris Quick Detach Zee rings, low








The bolt handle cleared the scope well.






My shooting range is along a path in the woods, with heavy canopy overhead, thereby
limiting the amount of light on the target. As well, it was evening and my aging eyes had
somewhat of a tough time seeing the center bull well.



First group went 1.040", with one flyer, with the other two rounds at .335".






I then placed a small flashlight at the target area, and aimed the beam toward the paper.
That helped me to see the target much better.

Second group did a neat little triangle of .470". I know these two loads don't indicate a norm,
but it's a good start for first attempts.






With only 16 rounds down the barrel, the little CZ was very pleasing. I still have more testing to do.

The trigger is in need of adjustment, even the set trigger left something to be desired. Anyone have
instructions on how to adjust it?




 
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