I have a question for the guys that bed their stocks.
I am getting ready to bed my Choate ultimate varmint stock on my SA Rem 700. The stock does have a full bedding block, and is free floated almost .25" from the lug forward, absolutely no barrel contact.
I noticed the stock does not have a recoil lug cavity, it just has an aluminum shelf the recoil lug sits back against. The rib in front of the shelf is approx. 2 inches forward so it would take a lot of material to fill this area up.
I am considering cutting an aluminum wall and epoxing in to make a cavity.
Is this an ok method, or should I not worry so much and just apply a thin coat between the taped lug and the aluminom shelf?
This rifle is doing pretty well, shot .492 this weekend with choate stock, replaced magazine with epoxied in single shot follower, Rifle basix LV-1K trigger, and handloads of fireformed Win brass, Win primers, 36.4 gr. of H4895, and 40gr. Nosler Varmageddons, set at .023 from the lands. I am trying to wring a little more out of it
Any Ideas?
Thanks,
Ron
I am getting ready to bed my Choate ultimate varmint stock on my SA Rem 700. The stock does have a full bedding block, and is free floated almost .25" from the lug forward, absolutely no barrel contact.
I noticed the stock does not have a recoil lug cavity, it just has an aluminum shelf the recoil lug sits back against. The rib in front of the shelf is approx. 2 inches forward so it would take a lot of material to fill this area up.
I am considering cutting an aluminum wall and epoxing in to make a cavity.
Is this an ok method, or should I not worry so much and just apply a thin coat between the taped lug and the aluminom shelf?
This rifle is doing pretty well, shot .492 this weekend with choate stock, replaced magazine with epoxied in single shot follower, Rifle basix LV-1K trigger, and handloads of fireformed Win brass, Win primers, 36.4 gr. of H4895, and 40gr. Nosler Varmageddons, set at .023 from the lands. I am trying to wring a little more out of it
Any Ideas?
Thanks,
Ron