Heavy barrel vs. sporter barrel

Straatmann

New member
I have a remington 700 .243 I found heavy barrel to put on it for cheap, about to good to pass up. The gunsmith wants $250 to take old barrel off, true the action, and put the new barrel on. Should I snatch it up or would I be better off putting my money some where else, I'm mostly looking to make it a better varmint/600-700 paper gun, I already have my scope on it so I don't need money their, opinions?
 
Heavy take off barrels are cheap, like $50. Good aftermarket barrel blanks are $300 and you can tell the difference with a borescope and most of the time with your groups. If your current barrel doesn't shoot, get a quality barrel blank. It's likely a lateral move swapping barrels like that.
 
"It's likely a lateral move swapping barrels like that."

It might be more likely a backwards move as well...somebody is getting rid of that barrel cheap for a reason...you can believe it aint because it shoots such fantastic groups.
 
There are advantages and disadvantages to heavy barrels and sporter barrels alike.

Heavy barrel
advantages include higher accuracy, multiple shots without losing accuracy or cases sticking
Disadvantages include being very heavy LOL, so not for lugging about stalking, but ideal if only a short walk and then getting setup for an all day shoot at one stand.

Sporter barrel
Advantages include being light for long walks with the rifle (stalking)
Disadvantages include quickly overheating, hence after 2-3 shots accuracy generally goes to pot until the barrel has cooled again, and cases sticking which is cured by once again allowing the barrel to cool.

So, if you have 10 mins between each shot, and are walking a lot, take a sporter.

If you have multiple quick shots, and are shooting mostly from a fixed stand, take the heavy barrel.
 
Originally Posted By: Raymond BlakerThere are advantages and disadvantages to heavy barrels and sporter barrels alike.

Heavy barrel
advantages include higher accuracy, multiple shots without losing accuracy or cases sticking
Disadvantages include being very heavy LOL, so not for lugging about stalking, but ideal if only a short walk and then getting setup for an all day shoot at one stand.

Sporter barrel
Advantages include being light for long walks with the rifle (stalking)
Disadvantages include quickly overheating, hence after 2-3 shots accuracy generally goes to pot until the barrel has cooled again, and cases sticking which is cured by once again allowing the barrel to cool.

So, if you have 10 mins between each shot, and are walking a lot, take a sporter.

If you have multiple quick shots, and are shooting mostly from a fixed stand, take the heavy barrel.



The weight of the barrel has nothing to do with sticking cases - if cases stick in your rifle, you have other problems.


.
 
Unless you are planning to do high round count, rapid fire shooting, you really don't need a heavy bull barrel...Heat distortion effect will be much less noticeable than with the lighter contours and it will be more stable from a sandbag for targets...

For target shooting, a medium contour barrel is a nice compromise between a carry and target rifle...If it's just for hunting, where one or two shots is all that is anticipated, the light sporter contour is much more enjoyable to carry...
 
Originally Posted By: CatShooter

The weight of the barrel has nothing to do with sticking cases - if cases stick in your rifle, you have other problems.


.
+1





There is no way in heck I would spend $250 to have another factory barrel put on my gun (saying the other barrel was free). If your wanting to be serious in the 6-700 yard range get a quality barrel. If $ is an object... Get a custom barrel & don't "true" the action. The following pics are from a gun that has a sporter barrel from Brux on a Rem700 that was NOT trued. All 30 shots (6-5shot groups) were shot in a span of ~15-20 minutes. Notice I didn't have any "flyers" when it got hot (actually the best group came when it was very warm), nor any stuck cases....
lol.gif



Rifle.jpg



photobucket-28159-1348618925483.jpg


On a hunting rifle, it's doubtfull you will ever see advatages from "trueing" in the field. However, if you are shooting paper (or want the best results possible) I would absolutly true the action. Also, don't overlook your stock. To get consistant results you need a rigid stock with a good bedding job. That will cause flyers under heat MUCH more than sporter v/s bull.
 
I would definitely true the action no matter what you do then its done. but I also wouldn't even consider the work without a good aftermarket blank installed. keep your eyes out and you can find a quality blank for $250 or sometimes less. if you are considering a heavy barrel, short range BR guys change their barrels at 1000 rounds or less quite frequently. with a new throat and crown those barrels will give stellar varmint accuracy for a couple thousand more rounds depending on caliber. they can be had for $75 or so and some barrels with with far fewer rounds can be had for $100 more often than not.

chuck
 
Truing an action is very over-rated.

It "might" show benefits in a benchrest rifle, but only if a lot of other things are done at the same time.

Without the full treatment, truing alone is a waste of time and money - and most gunsmiths that claim to true actions, have no idea what they are doing.

It will never show benefits in any field or hunting rifle, and it is money down the tube - no one will pay you a dime more for your rifle when you go to sell it.


.
 
Originally Posted By: CatShooterTruing an action is very over-rated.

It "might" show benefits in a benchrest rifle, but only is a lot of other things are done at the same time.

Without the full treatment, truing alone is a waste of time and money - and most gunsmiths that claim to true actions, have no idea what they are doing.

It will never show benefits in any field or hunting rifle, and it is money down the tube - no one will pay you a dime more for your rifle when you go to sell it.


.

+1 again! I'd rather put the extra $250 (what most smiths charge to "true") into the scope for a hunting rifle. If you do "true" make sure you understand what he is doing as most guys half-azz the process.


Originally Posted By: ChuckWilliamsI would definitely true the action no matter what you do then its done. but I also wouldn't even consider the work without a good aftermarket blank installed. keep your eyes out and you can find a quality blank for $250 or sometimes less. if you are considering a heavy barrel, short range BR guys change their barrels at 1000 rounds or less quite frequently. with a new throat and crown those barrels will give stellar varmint accuracy for a couple thousand more rounds depending on caliber. they can be had for $75 or so and some barrels with with far fewer rounds can be had for $100 more often than not.

chuck


This is true, but (short range) 14 twist barrels are not going to get him to the 6-700 yards he stated in OP.

However, if he can live with inside 300 yards (unless good conditions) & his smith has a short throat reamer... Look here for cheap barrels---> http://forum.accurateshooter.com/index.php?topic=3808292.0
 
That would depend upon what EXACTLY "truing the action" entails.

It certainly does not mean the same thing to every smith/user.......
 
I don't know, if I happened to put a Krieger on my Sendero cause I wanted to do a 6.5-06, I wouldn't not hesitate to put my Factory 25-06 barrel on a donor action reamed and set back...
 
Quote:The weight of the barrel has nothing to do with sticking cases - if cases stick in your rifle, you have other problems.




+2.

A medium weigt barrel would be a decent compromise. But, like others stated, unless you are making more than 2-3 quick shots, a sporter barrel will take you out to a good distance- and accuratley.
 
I've tossed around the idea of the barrel or putting the money into a stock and trigger instead but I'm just stuck on the fence. I don't necessarily need the barrel, don't get me wrong I like the bull barrel look a lot. Looks aren't everything though.
 
Originally Posted By: CatShooterTruing an action is very over-rated.

It "might" show benefits in a benchrest rifle, but only if a lot of other things are done at the same time.

Without the full treatment, truing alone is a waste of time and money - and most gunsmiths that claim to true actions, have no idea what they are doing.

It will never show benefits in any field or hunting rifle, and it is money down the tube - no one will pay you a dime more for your rifle when you go to sell it.


.

+1

I spent a lot of money verifying the exact same thing that Catshooter has also found. I used rem 700 actions (one trued and one non trued), Hart barrels, chambered with the same reamer, bedded in McMillen Benchrest stocks. I could not tell the difference in groups, wind had more effect on which one shot the best.

For many, blueprinting an action is a point of pride, so knock yourself out! As for me, I will not blue print another. Another thing, if you do go the route of blueprinting an action, for goodness sakes, purchase a set of wind flags which is a heck of a lot more important!
 
catshooter,

you seem to get a lot of respect around here and I am sure it is well deserved but In this case I have to say that your wrong. I don't know if you happen to do your own gunsmithing but I do. I would never waste the time putting a high quality blank on a receiver that hasn't been trued. I measure runout on all of them prior to truing and have seen over .010 on occasions and this includes custom Remington clones! I don't use custom actions anymore because it bites my [beeep] to have to check one for true after plopping down $1000. in any case, why would you put a perfectly chambered barrel on an action that is upwards of .010 out of true and add to that the fact that many times only one lug on a Remington is making contact or very lightly on the second lug. when I true one up it included the action face, bolt lugs in the receiver, and threads. the bolt face and bolt lugs are also trued. when I get done I know that every thing is perpendicular to the bolt raceway which Is perpendicular to the bore since we put a nice new custom blank on there.
now I am not saying that you wont get one occasionally that shoots really well, but why leave it to chance. if your bolt doesn't sit true to the chamber, the base of the case will be forced out of square when the round is fired. even if you full length size, that doesn't correct the case head. the next time you chamber the round is it going to be sitting differently in the chamber in relation to the bore from the last time it was fired. that cant possibly be good for consistency.
lastly, if yall don't trust your gunsmith to true up the action to your satisfaction, why in the [beeep] do you trust him to cut a good chamber and put a good crown on your barrel?

chuck
 
Originally Posted By: StraatmannI have a remington 700 .243 I found heavy barrel to put on it for cheap, about to good to pass up. The gunsmith wants $250 to take old barrel off, true the action, and put the new barrel on. Should I snatch it up or would I be better off putting my money some where else, I'm mostly looking to make it a better varmint/600-700 paper gun, I already have my scope on it so I don't need money their, opinions?

Save your money for a new tube, twisted how you want, and in the contour you choose.

To [beeep] with truing the action.


Travis
 
Originally Posted By: ChuckWilliamscatshooter,

you seem to get a lot of respect around here and I am sure it is well deserved but In this case I have to say that your wrong. I don't know if you happen to do your own gunsmithing but I do. I would never waste the time putting a high quality blank on a receiver that hasn't been trued. I measure runout on all of them prior to truing and have seen over .010 on occasions and this includes custom Remington clones! I don't use custom actions anymore because it bites my [beeep] to have to check one for true after plopping down $1000. in any case, why would you put a perfectly chambered barrel on an action that is upwards of .010 out of true and add to that the fact that many times only one lug on a Remington is making contact or very lightly on the second lug. when I true one up it included the action face, bolt lugs in the receiver, and threads. the bolt face and bolt lugs are also trued. when I get done I know that every thing is perpendicular to the bolt raceway which Is perpendicular to the bore since we put a nice new custom blank on there.
now I am not saying that you wont get one occasionally that shoots really well, but why leave it to chance. if your bolt doesn't sit true to the chamber, the base of the case will be forced out of square when the round is fired. even if you full length size, that doesn't correct the case head. the next time you chamber the round is it going to be sitting differently in the chamber in relation to the bore from the last time it was fired. that cant possibly be good for consistency.
lastly, if yall don't trust your gunsmith to true up the action to your satisfaction, why in the [beeep] do you trust him to cut a good chamber and put a good crown on your barrel?

chuck

Do whatever you want to your guns.

I was a gunsmith for 7 years, and specialized in long range target and woodchuck rifles - and I shot competitive bench for a good while.

I still build rifles.

I built the rifle that shot this group...

M24Rifle046inchgroup-300.jpg


I have seen some crappy low end 700 actions (gun listed for
 
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