Marlin 336 Owners

EasternPredHunter

New member
What do you guys do to improve the reliability, function, looks....etc. of your Marlin 336? I love my Marlin just as much as the next guy, but we all know the name has been beaten to pieces since Remington got theirs hands on this company. My point in saying that is there is alot of rough edges and alot of corners cut. With that said, this rifle is a TACK driver. I have gotten 3/4" groups (3 shot) at 100 yards with this beast using hornday 160 FTX's. Not to mention the handful of deer I've popped with it the past few years. I would just like to make it a little more functional and user friendly. I plan on refinishing the ugly stock they put on it as well.

Thanks
 
Reduced power spring kit (must adjust the lever safety pressure as well otherwise it'll drop open unintentionally), bearproof ejector, wwg trigger happy, big loop lever, cut down and radius hammer, RADIUS CARRIER ELEVATOR CAM ON LEVER!!!!!!!!, add stainless parts to the blued gun (loading gate, barrel band or forend tip, mag tube plug, trigger, lever, hammer, etc)

Google marauder marlin jam fix and you'll find directions to radius the cam. Prevents galling that can lock your gun up tight when it finally wears badly enough.

Polish the internals, hammer radius, bolt carriage.

I personally remove the safety buttons usually, replace them with a screw, but I'm not sure that part is still sold.

That's where I start with marlins, anyone can do this work. Really makes them a joy to operate.
 
My 336 is a "JM" (as are all my Marlins) so it was pretty much smooth from day one so I didn't have to do much.
If you go to Marlinowner.com there are alot of threads with videos and pictures on fixing and tuning up Marlins.

Key
 
Originally Posted By: keyston44My 336 is a "JM" (as are all my Marlins) so it was pretty much smooth from day one so I didn't have to do much.
If you go to Marlinowner.com there are alot of threads with videos and pictures on fixing and tuning up Marlins.

Key

http://www.marlinowners.com/

(With an "s")


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Originally Posted By: CatShooterOriginally Posted By: keyston44My 336 is a "JM" (as are all my Marlins) so it was pretty much smooth from day one so I didn't have to do much.
If you go to Marlinowner.com there are alot of threads with videos and pictures on fixing and tuning up Marlins.

Key

http://www.marlinowners.com/

(With an "s")


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Thanks, sometimes my brain and fingers don't work together.

Key
 
I have 3 Marlins and I am trying to pickup another from my brother in the very near future. Go to Marlinowners.com and there is a wealth of info on these great guns. I have a '49 336RC 30-30, and a '90 336CS 30-30, and a '76 444S Marlin, My brother has a '48 336RC 30-30, that I am close to buying.
I would go and add the Wild West ejector and maybe the big loop lever, and whatever else floats your boat. I will take a Marlin Lever over about any other gun if the chit were to hit the fan.
 
JM stands for John Marlin, that's the stamp that Marlin used until it was bought out. Remington now uses RP I think and the quality of the new Marlins, or Remlins as they are called, is very hit or miss. The JM guns seem to have better QC and most guys who like their Marlins prefer the JM guns.



Go over to MarlinOwners.com and check it out, they even have a Remington Rant forum.


All my Marlins are JM stamped also, I got one of the last sets of 1895G's to come out of the old plant and my 336 is a 1976 model.
 
Originally Posted By: Bearcat 74JM stands for John Marlin, that's the stamp that Marlin used until it was bought out. Remington now uses RP I think and the quality of the new Marlins, or Remlins as they are called, is very hit or miss. The JM guns seem to have better QC and most guys who like their Marlins prefer the JM guns.



Go over to MarlinOwners.com and check it out, they even have a Remington Rant forum.


All my Marlins are JM stamped also, I got one of the last sets of 1895G's to come out of the old plant and my 336 is a 1976 model.

Cool... I have a 336 in 35 Rem before the buy-out, and it is a real nice rifle, with absolutely beautiful presentation wood. (Go figure??)


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Sounds like a dandy, my 336 is a 35 Rem and it's an awesome rifle. Pefect for our woods paired with the 200gr RN.


I really like my 45/70, especially after I thinned out the forearm and removed the checkering off the buttstock.
 
Originally Posted By: Bearcat 74JM stands for John Marlin,

Well I'll be darned. I've known about the JM stamp for a long time but never knew what it stood for.
Pretty obvious now that I know. I actually had one of those "duh" moments when I read that. LOL

I have a 1976 1894 in 44Mag that was a disaster when I got it, but after a good cleaning and refinishing the stock it runs like a top. It's actually fun to shoot too, and that's from the worlds biggest recoil wimp.
Also have a 1946 M39 that I'd put up against any 22lr lever gun out there. Shame they can't make guns like that any more.
019unz.jpg


 
Originally Posted By: RePeteOriginally Posted By: Bearcat 74JM stands for John Marlin,

Well I'll be darned. I've known about the JM stamp for a long time but never knew what it stood for.
Pretty obvious now that I know. I actually had one of those "duh" moments when I read that. LOL

I have a 1976 1894 in 44Mag that was a disaster when I got it, but after a good cleaning and refinishing the stock it runs like a top. It's actually fun to shoot too, and that's from the worlds biggest recoil wimp.
Also have a 1946 M39 that I'd put up against any 22lr lever gun out there. Shame they can't make guns like that any more.
019unz.jpg



what did you stain that bottom stock with?
 
No stain. I applied about 20 coats of plain old mineral oil (from the drug store), sanding between applications, and finished with a few coats of Watco Wax. I have to rewax it now and then with either Watco or Johnson paste wax, but I really like the natural finish so I don't mind.
The stock was a mess when I got it, but I was pleasantly surprised to find some pretty nice walnut under the grease, grime, and urethane (I think) from the previous owner.
I got the gun super cheap because it wouldn't feed properly. After a little reading on marlinowners I took it apart and found forty years worth of crud similar to what you'd find on the bottom of a leaky tractor LOL. Haven't tried any other ammo, but it feeds 240gr winny white box like a champ now, and hits where I'm aiming so I've stuck with it.

Good luck with your project and post pix when you're done.
 
Like I said in another post, strip the old finish off and hand rub in lindsead oil, that walnut will just pop out.

My newest Marlin is 1990,(serial number starts with 10) I will NEVER buy a Marlin with the REM or RP Proofmark on the barrel, It must be the "JM" barrel. Serial number has to begin with 94 or higher (2006-2000) or 01-72 (1999-1972) or begin with letters,(1970-1948)
 
Originally Posted By: RiflemannLike I said in another post, strip the old finish off and hand rub in lindsead oil, that walnut will just pop out.

My newest Marlin is 1990,(serial number starts with 10) I will NEVER buy a Marlin with the REM or RP Proofmark on the barrel, It must be the "JM" barrel. Serial number has to begin with 94 or higher (2006-2000) or 01-72 (1999-1972) or begin with letters,(1970-1948)
Mine is a Remilin....stain already applied on the BIRCH. No walnut here.
 
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