Annealing???
- Thread starter midwestpredator
- Start date
Tactical .20
New member
I over heated 100 casings, so I'm glad my IMI brass was already annealed, I can't mess it up! lol
EJ Reichenbach
New member
Well I just tested some nosler 243 brass that I annealed till the neck was red and I shot it low and behold it worked great, I can tell the brass is a lot softer cuz the necks got dinged up pretty easy but owell it will harden in time.
Catshooter I have always enjoyed reading your threads and have learned a lot from reading them. If your not going to use Templaq and feel you can't hurt the brass by getting it red hot how do you anneal yours. Or if you have talked on this topic in detail before just link it for me and I can read it. Thanks Rick
midwestpredator
Active member
Originally Posted By: rickybCatshooter I have always enjoyed reading your threads and have learned a lot from reading them. If your not going to use Templaq and feel you can't hurt the brass by getting it red hot how do you anneal yours. Or if you have talked on this topic in detail before just link it for me and I can read it. Thanks Rick
Id be interested in a link or thread also. same for the other side of the arguement, if there is infact consequences of over annealing then there must be photos or solid facts why it is dangerous. just like it is important to start with a lower charge and work up and there is solid evidence to prove it is dangerous to start with max listed charges.
Id be interested in a link or thread also. same for the other side of the arguement, if there is infact consequences of over annealing then there must be photos or solid facts why it is dangerous. just like it is important to start with a lower charge and work up and there is solid evidence to prove it is dangerous to start with max listed charges.
CatShooter
New member
Originally Posted By: rickybCatshooter I have always enjoyed reading your threads and have learned a lot from reading them. If your not going to use Templaq and feel you can't hurt the brass by getting it red hot how do you anneal yours. Or if you have talked on this topic in detail before just link it for me and I can read it. Thanks Rick
I think I have written on this, but it is easy. I currently use the Hornady tool for my annealing. I am putting together the parts for a high-speed annealing machine for my commercial sales.
For my own stuff, I use a power screwdriver (make sure you get one with a soft switch or your thumb will go numb
)
I lay out a old bathroom towel on the bench. Then I crumple up a length of heavy duty aluminum foil, and then stretch it out over the towel - that is so the cases can fall on something soft that they can't burn.
I use the short-fat, one pound propane tanks - they can stand on the bench on their own without falling over.
I hold the screwdriver in the left hand and place the torch so the flame flows from the shoulder to the neck, so the heat does not go into the case holder. It takes about 5 to 7 seconds to heat the neck to a dull red heat. If you see a color change, but no red glow, then it is ok do dump it.
I have several Burnz-a-matic heads, one of them makes the necks silver, and one of them makes the necks dark red-ish-blue. It is due to the gas/air mix ratio, and since they are not adjustable, I just live with it.
I heat the neck until it is dark red in low light, and then dump it on the aluminum foil. I can do about 250 an hour with this.
I have ~300 pieces of Remington 22-250 cases that have been moved through 5 rifles over the past 33 years, and are being prep'ed for the 6th rifle (the Rem 700 "Resurrection Riffle" that I am working on)... those case have been fired about 45 times each, and I anneal them every 5 to 7 firings.
I have lost 3 or 4 due to splits (in the beginning), and maybe 10 to 12 are still out in the Conata Basin in SoDak.
It ain't rocket science
.
I think I have written on this, but it is easy. I currently use the Hornady tool for my annealing. I am putting together the parts for a high-speed annealing machine for my commercial sales.
For my own stuff, I use a power screwdriver (make sure you get one with a soft switch or your thumb will go numb
I lay out a old bathroom towel on the bench. Then I crumple up a length of heavy duty aluminum foil, and then stretch it out over the towel - that is so the cases can fall on something soft that they can't burn.
I use the short-fat, one pound propane tanks - they can stand on the bench on their own without falling over.
I hold the screwdriver in the left hand and place the torch so the flame flows from the shoulder to the neck, so the heat does not go into the case holder. It takes about 5 to 7 seconds to heat the neck to a dull red heat. If you see a color change, but no red glow, then it is ok do dump it.
I have several Burnz-a-matic heads, one of them makes the necks silver, and one of them makes the necks dark red-ish-blue. It is due to the gas/air mix ratio, and since they are not adjustable, I just live with it.
I heat the neck until it is dark red in low light, and then dump it on the aluminum foil. I can do about 250 an hour with this.
I have ~300 pieces of Remington 22-250 cases that have been moved through 5 rifles over the past 33 years, and are being prep'ed for the 6th rifle (the Rem 700 "Resurrection Riffle" that I am working on)... those case have been fired about 45 times each, and I anneal them every 5 to 7 firings.
I have lost 3 or 4 due to splits (in the beginning), and maybe 10 to 12 are still out in the Conata Basin in SoDak.
It ain't rocket science
.
midwestpredator
Active member
Made it to the range yesterday to test the 55gr zmax in my annealed cases.
Brass seems to be perfect. I ran charges from 24 gr uip to listed max for ar comp and i had zero signs of excessive pressure. But i dont think its far off.
Unfortunately i didnt have anything to speak of for groups, 2 charges maybe have some potential but im not convinced yet. Going to reload the same 2 charges at the same length then load some more a little deeper in the case and see if i cant get them to a ragged hole.
Brass seems to be perfect. I ran charges from 24 gr uip to listed max for ar comp and i had zero signs of excessive pressure. But i dont think its far off.
Unfortunately i didnt have anything to speak of for groups, 2 charges maybe have some potential but im not convinced yet. Going to reload the same 2 charges at the same length then load some more a little deeper in the case and see if i cant get them to a ragged hole.
SShooterZ
New member
Does nickel plated brass need to be treated any different? Or just follow the same 3-4 firings and anneal like regular brass?
I've never annealed the nickel plated personally.
As for regular brass, unless you cook it WAY down near the head, I haven't seen a problem. But that's just me.
I've never annealed the nickel plated personally.
As for regular brass, unless you cook it WAY down near the head, I haven't seen a problem. But that's just me.
EJ Reichenbach
New member
I would bet if you anneal nickel brass it will flake
CatShooter
New member
Originally Posted By: SShooterZDoes nickel plated brass need to be treated any different? Or just follow the same 3-4 firings and anneal like regular brass?
I've never annealed the nickel plated personally.
As for regular brass, unless you cook it WAY down near the head, I haven't seen a problem. But that's just me.
Anneal nickel just like plain brass - it does not flake.
.
I've never annealed the nickel plated personally.
As for regular brass, unless you cook it WAY down near the head, I haven't seen a problem. But that's just me.
Anneal nickel just like plain brass - it does not flake.
.
cherokee305
New member
Maybe the guy who says it will ruin brass was trying to anneal loaded ammo. Hahahahaha
EJ Reichenbach
New member
Guess I learn something new everyday