Gun checkering???

[hamerhead]

Hey Guys,

I've recently tried my hand at gun stock checkering. I got an old set of hand checkering tools in some of my grandfathers stuff and decided to give it a try. I'm not real pleased with the results!! Has anybody tried this and what advise can you give me????

I've now started thinking about doing it with a Dremel and maybe do more of a carving technique. Has anybody done this too????

Pictures would be great also, just to inspire me to continue. I hate to have to sand my stock down again or throw it away. Thanks.

Hamer

 

[OldTurtle]

There are some books and, I assume, videos out on the subject...Just as in Air Brushing, it's an acquired skill with a considerable amount of practice before you ever touch a real stock...

Most of the 'old masters' started out as apprentices, sharpening the tools before they ever were allowed to make a basic cut..

From the bloopers I've made in the past with a Dremel, I'd be a little concerned about trying to cut a straight pattern line freehand with a graver...

 

[wachtelhund1]

I started checkering last year and did four rifles. Started with an old Marlin rimfire. It was done in 18 lpi and came out the best. I did a .22 mag and two centerfire rifle in 20 and 22 lpi. I'm happy with all even though in places they were not perfect, had some mistakes which I fixed, one gun I sanded down and started over. They are functional checkering. Most of my cutters were new from Midway, on sale. Don't know if this is correct, but here is my observation: get complete sets - right and left hand cutters, no cut and one or two row cutters right and left, three line cutter and edge cutter, and a 60 degree cutter for the final clean up and an edge cutter, use a cradle and brush each row cut, work in good light. Your grand father's tools are probably dull. If you want good patterns you need to work with sharp cutters. Lay out your pattern and make light cuts first, make sure you initial intersecting lines are straight and at the correct angle - use a diamound shape layout guide for the initial lines. Use the single 60 degree cutter to lightly lay out the initial lines. Then right and left, no cut and one or two row cutters to follow the initial line and lightly cut the pattern. Then go over it with the three line cutter to clean the lines, back and forth, two or three passes light passes, no more or you'll cut to deep. Hardest part is not cutting to deep. Then clean up the diamound points with the single 60 cutter. Then cut your edge. Used stock finishing oil as you work. If you mess up and cross a line, fix it immediately with the single and three line cutter. You'll tend to want to contiue cutting, don't until the crossed line is fixed.

Work slowly have the eye maginfiers. Each stock may take a week or more until you get the hang of it.

Here is a H&R 700 .22 mag -- before and after, re-barreled with Bulter Creek barrel

Marlin 25 .22LR Rebarreled to .17 Mach II - Before and after:

T-38 Jap Re-barreled to 6.5 X 57mm Before and after:

 

[CatShooter]

Try Brownell's - they have tools, books, and classical patterns. Start with an old baseball bat - or a rejected wood gunstock.

 

[Dennyr]

There are decals to place on the stock to get your baselines and the outline of your pattern. Good sharp cutters and take your time if you feel the least bit tired stop for the day. Good light and a magifyer is very necessary. Very light cuts are the key not much more than a scratch really then do it again and again. Good luck

 

[wachtelhund1]

Last year when I started checkering, I tried to find the stick on decals, but could not find any. Brownell's sold them at one time but no more. If you know were some are available, please let me know. Of course I would have to buy another gun with a plain stock as all mine are done.