Duracoat project ideas

280fan

New member
I'm about to start a Duracoat project on an old rifle and I need some ideas for the muzzle crown. What have some of you done with it? Leave it alone? It's newly re-cut and cold blued (looks black) and I'm coating the gun with flat black. If I protect the bore and coat the crown is it a waste of time, will muzzle blast remove the coating in short order?

Any advice will be appreciated.
 
You can coat it but it will wear faster on the muzzle, due to its location...and solvents. Make sure to let it cure for at least 30 days before any solvents... if you can wait 60 even better....then you are good to go.

Cant wait to see it
 
Fill the bore with clay, or a Qtip, or cheese.
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Cured Duracoat can be removed with a wire wheel on a Dremel, so I imagine if you get a little bit of overspray in the bore it will come off by running a copper bore brush out the bore a few times. Prep the crown face extra well (sand, degrease) because it will be exposed to heat and blast over time.
 
OK, thanks for the tips guys. I had pretty much decided on clay or wax in the bore, just was wondering if it was a waste of time due to mzl blast.

Var05, what is SL? I probably should know, but obviously don't.

While we're on the subject, the rifle is 46 yrs old, a '67 model 788, and has a slight bit of pitting under the scope area, very slight. I know Duracoat is pretty thick, will it fill in minor pitting, or should I get some Durafill to use first? Or is that too a waste of time?
 
I've only done one firearm in DuraCoat and applied the paint coats with an air brush...If you mix the thinner and hardner correctly, it will be a fairly light application, and that's best...As stated, be sure to let it dry for 6-8 weeks before use...

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I called the tech at DuraCoat and was told I didn't need to prime the weapon first (counter to all I've previously learned) and after a couple of years found the paint was chipping off in places... Due to the design, it was almost impossible to 'touch up' without looking 'sloppy' by my standards and I wound up bead blasting the whole finish off..

204ARStrippedb.jpg


I wound up priming the bare metal with an automotive 'self etching' primer (rattle can, $10 at NAPA auto parts) before applying another paint job..(Krylon)

204ARPrimed.jpg


And it's held up great for the last four years...

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I have an old 1911 10mm that had a crappy blue job and applied the primer to it as well...It's my 'truck' gun...

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Using a primer will let you fill in the rust spots and allow you to smooth them out without creating a glob where they are located...

Obviously, I'm a big fan of the primer...
 
a trick i have found is after the dura-coat has been applied and it is dry enuff to handle .... put it in a car or truck with the windows rolled up on a sunny day and leave it....... do this for a about 3 days........ it works grea......
 
I've Dura Coated five rifles. When mixed correctly for an air brush the coats go on very thin and multiple coats are required. These do not fill in lettering or pits. Pits can be sanded out with very fine sand paper, 400 grit of finer. I don't plug the barrel, what little spray that gets into te barrel will shoot out. Dura coat on muzzels for high velosity calibers will come off from the muzzel blast. I did one F class rifle in .250 AI. After several hundred 3,000 fps rounds the Dura coat is gone from the muzzel.

For spraying rifles, I make a five sided cardboard spray box lined with alumimun foil. The gun is prepped, I run a brass rod through one end of the box, then through the action and barrel and then through the other end of the box. This allows me to rotate the rifle while spraying with minimal touching of the gun. I usually leave an action screw in to rotate the rifle. I also place a double halagen shop light in front of the box. This helps me to see while air brushing for even coating. After spraying I move the light directly in front of the box to provide heat to help cure the epoxy - Dura coat. I leave the light on for an hour or so to heat the metal before spraying the first coat. This opens the pores for the finish. The foil reflects the heat and will cure the dura coat finish quickly, additional coats can be applied in 20 minute intervals. Leave the light on over night and the finish will be cured to handle the gun.
 
Thanks guys, good info. I have access to a bead blasting setup and plan to use it.

The pitting is minimal and so light the blasting may take care of it.
 
I've never let one cure more thank 2 days since I'm impatient as [beeep] lol. I've not noticed them to wear bad. The muzzle will around the radius of the crown but I'm ok with that. My 7 mag has been done for about 4 years and hunted with and still looks just fine
E870D964-5B22-4F7F-8FB1-DD6F9E5B75A8-2139-000000B9420EFA64.jpg
 
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