are extended shotgun chokes that much better than flush?

KYhunter1

New member
Just got my first 12 gauge for Christmas and currently only have the modified flush choke that came with it. Looking to get a full choke for improved pattern at distance out to 45 or 50 yards. Just want some opinions on what chokes are working for everyone. I'm on a budget so not wanting to spend much over 30 dollars.
 
Chokes are simply a constriction point at the end of the barrel. Weather that constriction point is 1.5 inches before the muzzle or 1.5 inches after the muzzle matters not at all.

There's way to much emphasis on chokes. Chokes give you inches, most misses are measured in feet. Also, the only thing that really matters is how your gun patterns with the specific loads you intend to use. Every gun patterns differently and every choke has a different effect on the pattern, but tighter isn't always better. Too much choke can flatten pellts and result in flyers that produce poor patterns. Only testing can tell you this.

I'm assuming you have a lower-cost shotgun that only came with one choke? If that is the case, my suggestion would be to buy the full choke.

Then go off to the range and pattern it.

This is a good idea for another reason: It tells you where to aim. My results, for example, with my Stoeger showed that the best aiming point for a 30 yard shot was to shoot right at the corner where the sholder meets the belly. With a rifle, this sight picture would almost certainly result in a miss, but with my shotgun aiming low seems to produce the most centered pattern.

Grouse
 
Originally Posted By: The Famous GrouseChokes are simply a constriction point at the end of the barrel. Weather that constriction point is 1.5 inches before the muzzle or 1.5 inches after the muzzle matters not at all.

Grouse
Some would say it does matter, that a more gradual choke constriction plays a role in improving patterns. Pretty much every long range choke is an extended choke, maybe they're right.
 
Originally Posted By: DiRTY DOGOriginally Posted By: The Famous GrouseChokes are simply a constriction point at the end of the barrel. Weather that constriction point is 1.5 inches before the muzzle or 1.5 inches after the muzzle matters not at all.

Grouse
Some would say it does matter, that a more gradual choke constriction plays a role in improving patterns. Pretty much every long range choke is an extended choke, maybe they're right.

I tend to agree with you. I use extended ported Rhino chokes on my turkey shotguns and they do pattern better than factory, flush mount chokes of the same constriction. This is on 12 gauge Beretta and Browning shotguns. I have several friends with Remington, Mossberg, and Winchester shotguns and they all use an extended choke.
 
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For maxing out your range extended chokes do have some advantages. Every dedicated long range choke on the market that I am aware of is an extended variety. Nobody is winning any NWTF Still Shot Count Championships with short factory flush mount chokes. The longer parallel sides of the extended choke help constrict the shot more gradually causing less deformation and disturbance to individual pellets and to the shot column as a whole. That prevents fliers and helps the shot column contain itself and the core density of the pattern. Additionally, most extended chokes have a wad stripping mechanism to retard the wad movement with the shot at the critical point in which the shot is leaving the barrel. Allowing the wad to rumble along in the back of the shot column disrupting the shot column as it exits the barrel isn’t conducive to really great long range results. Flite Control wads as used in many of Federal's Heavyweight loads are an exception to this rule as it is a different mechanism. If you want truly center dense heavily concentrated shot patterns at 40+ yards you will be shooting an extended choke.

For your budget I would look for a Jellyhead choke. It is the best buy on the market for an extended choke and usually gives some real decent patterns. New they might be a bit over your stated budget amount; however you can usually keep an eye out and buy them used for just about exactly what you said you wanted to pay for a choke.
 
Originally Posted By: DiRTY DOGOriginally Posted By: The Famous GrouseChokes are simply a constriction point at the end of the barrel. Weather that constriction point is 1.5 inches before the muzzle or 1.5 inches after the muzzle matters not at all.

Grouse
Some would say it does matter, that a more gradual choke constriction plays a role in improving patterns. Pretty much every long range choke is an extended choke, maybe they're right.

Well, now you're talking about something completely different: The specific geometry of the choke, not just its mounting location.

The bottom line is still that the performance of any choke on any single gun varies. There is no blanked way to state that Choke X is good and Choke Y is bad. Everything is down to the combination of choke, load, and shotgun and how they work together.

Grouse
 
Originally Posted By: The Famous GrouseOriginally Posted By: DiRTY DOGOriginally Posted By: The Famous GrouseChokes are simply a constriction point at the end of the barrel. Weather that constriction point is 1.5 inches before the muzzle or 1.5 inches after the muzzle matters not at all.

Grouse
Some would say it does matter, that a more gradual choke constriction plays a role in improving patterns. Pretty much every long range choke is an extended choke, maybe they're right.

Well, now you're talking about something completely different: The specific geometry of the choke, not just its mounting location.

The bottom line is still that the performance of any choke on any single gun varies. There is no blanked way to state that Choke X is good and Choke Y is bad. Everything is down to the combination of choke, load, and shotgun and how they work together.

Grouse










IME with Brownings, Berettas, & Remingtons, they all shoot turkey loads better with extended choke tubes than they do with flush mount tubes. Others I know with different brands report the same results.
 
They for sure look cooler
w00t.gif
 
Does anyone have any experience with the hs strut undertaker ported extended choke tube? It is right at the 30 dollar range and has descent reviews.
 
I went through several different chokes and found my favorite to be a kick's modified. I have it on a Winchester Super-X2.
 
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Originally Posted By: KYhunter1Does anyone have any experience with the hs strut undertaker ported extended choke tube? It is right at the 30 dollar range and has descent reviews.

I've used one. Great patterns with buck and turkey loads.
 
Originally Posted By: KYhunter1Does anyone have any experience with the hs strut undertaker ported extended choke tube? It is right at the 30 dollar range and has descent reviews.

I have used the unported HS strut chokes and they work very well for turkey loads.
 
Originally Posted By: tactical assaultExtended tubes are just easier to change out a wrench. They make very little to no difference in your pattern in my experience.

+1 For extended tube. When, one gets stuck, I have a place for a pipe wrench. I like the ones with holes I can use an allen wrench to change them. I like Tru-chokes from Carlson. Carlson sell an oil for choke tubes that I use.
 
Every extended choke I have tried showed more consistency. JME. Of course, a quality flush mount will usually trump a poor quality extended. And vise versa. I've only shot regular factory flush mounts.
 
Originally Posted By: GCFor maxing out your range extended chokes do have some advantages. Every dedicated long range choke on the market that I am aware of is an extended variety. Nobody is winning any NWTF Still Shot Count Championships with short factory flush mount chokes. The longer parallel sides of the extended choke help constrict the shot more gradually causing less deformation and disturbance to individual pellets and to the shot column as a whole. That prevents fliers and helps the shot column contain itself and the core density of the pattern. Additionally, most extended chokes have a wad stripping mechanism to retard the wad movement with the shot at the critical point in which the shot is leaving the barrel. Allowing the wad to rumble along in the back of the shot column disrupting the shot column as it exits the barrel isn’t conducive to really great long range results. Flite Control wads as used in many of Federal's Heavyweight loads are an exception to this rule as it is a different mechanism. If you want truly center dense heavily concentrated shot patterns at 40+ yards you will be shooting an extended choke.

For your budget I would look for a Jellyhead choke. It is the best buy on the market for an extended choke and usually gives some real decent patterns. New they might be a bit over your stated budget amount; however you can usually keep an eye out and buy them used for just about exactly what you said you wanted to pay for a choke.


What he said^^^^^^
 
I would like to recommend you to use 12 gauge Beretta optima hp waterfowl chokes for duck hunting. You can easily buy it from Muller Chokes. They are producing high quality of chokes at decent prices. These chokes will fit in your shotguns.
 
Originally Posted By: Jimmy mullerI would like to recommend you to use 12 gauge Beretta optima hp waterfowl chokes for duck hunting. You can easily buy it from Muller Chokes. They are producing high quality of chokes at decent prices. These chokes will fit in your shotguns.

What? I'm not aware the OP stated what shotgun he is using?
 
Originally Posted By: Jimmy mullerI would like to recommend you to use 12 gauge Beretta optima hp waterfowl chokes for duck hunting. You can easily buy it from Muller Chokes. They are producing high quality of chokes at decent prices. These chokes will fit in your shotguns.

Throwing out a plug for yourself.
 
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