Cerakote prep questions

280fan

New member
I've done a search on Cerakote and found a bunch of suggestions for the process but I have a few points I haven't found an answer for, maybe some of you can help me.

This project is for the old 788 I acquired a few weeks ago. I've already installed a Timney and have arranged for a recrown job. Now I'm planning a paint job.

First, I have a garage owner friend with a bead blasting setup and he's willing to do the job for me. He normally uses 80 grit glass beads, does this sound appropriate for the job?

Second, I supposed we want to take all the metal back to the white?

Third, how do you protect the areas you don't want blasted? Of course I'll uninstall the Timney, but how about inside the receiver and the bore at the muzzle?

Fourth, I have an outside wood furnace that if I'm really energetic I can turn into a temporary curing oven for Cerakote. I believe I could put an entire rifle in it, stock and all, haha. It would involve getting the surrounding water temp to the desired level, then raking out the coals from the firebox and hosing it out. After that I could put the rifle in on a prepared support stand and close the door. It's a 500 gal water tank and takes forever to cool down, it would heat the firebox back to whatever the water temp is and hold it for hours. 160 to 180 degrees would be easy. Is this actually a worthwhile effort? Or is cold cured Cerakote adequate for a rifle that will probably seldom be used except at the range anyway?

Lastly, do you use Cerakote on the buttstock also, say for a camo job? If not, what is suggested?

Thanks,
Jim
 
I would look at prices at customized creationz first. home projects are fun but id leave it to guys who do it everyday. Its not that expensive.
 
Most gun finishes need aluminum oxide for blast media, it leaves a rough surface for better adhesion. The glass beads are more for polishing. I'm unsure about the cure temps on Cerakote but KG gunkote and Norrell's Moly Resin need 300-325 cure temps. I've used pieces of metal inside the action with an empty shell casing inside the chamber to keep the abrasive out of the bore. I have a brass rod turned down to different diameters for the muzzle to protect the crown.
 
Jim,
If your still looking for answers on the prep work for Cerakote i may be able to help you out.
I have attended the NIC Training course and have excellent results from what i learned.
If your interested send me a PM or just email me at
redmistseeker@gmail.com and i will reply back with my ph#.
It would be easier to discuss as i have some questions regarding what materials you want to coat.
Regards,
RK
 
Last edited:
Here is some info:

AR Guns & Hunting current issue

The article includes blast media grit and PSI recommendations. Generally speaking, duct tape is your friend for protecting what you don't want blasted.

You want oxide not beads.

IMG_4278_zps0af1694d.jpg


Sendit
 
Back
Top