Varmint upper
- Thread starter dhc-6
- Start date
First....a couple questions.
Are you planning on carrying this rifle? I would assume so, as it is a "varminter".
What do YOU want to end up with when you are done?
I have 24, 20, & 16" barrel length AR's. Guess which one is used the most...yep...16". Accurate to 400 and a touch further. The 20 is extremely accurate. I have seriously consider cutting the 24" to 20...but it is fluted.
Personally, at least in true use, I don't think all of the rails, etc, are necessary. You just want an accurate semiauto to varmint with.
I am actually in the process of building a 16" M4 barrel AR15 and leaning towards "light is better!" for me.
Using a lightweight ACE stock, the M4 profile barrel, and 10 round mags, I believe this will fit my needs.
I would not turn down an 18 or 20" barrel of HBar configuration.
1:9 will stabilize everything from 75 gr AMax to 40 gr Nosler BT's. 1:8 to stabilize 80 gr Amax and Sierra MatchKings. 1:7 or 7.5 for heavier than that.
In terms of lightweight, I have not held in hand or used any of the aftermarket free float tubes or plastic lowers. maybe somebody else can chime in.
My build will use a YHM rifle length aluminum free float tube, that I will drill/mill myself to lighten. I like a longer forend than carbine length for ease of handling and to put a bipod on. YHM has a low profile gas block that allows your free float tube to fit over and covers the gas block.
Surplassammo dot com has the most reasonable barrel prices that I have found. Chrome moly will work fine. Stainless is an excellent choice as well...but a touch heavier.
Don't get caught up in the cool/hip stuff. You will just end up with a lot of money into something that is heavy, cuts your hand on the forearm rails, etc, etc.... I will be less than $700 in a complete AR with all new parts (including a nickel boron coated BCG)...google is your new best friend!
Are you planning on carrying this rifle? I would assume so, as it is a "varminter".
What do YOU want to end up with when you are done?
I have 24, 20, & 16" barrel length AR's. Guess which one is used the most...yep...16". Accurate to 400 and a touch further. The 20 is extremely accurate. I have seriously consider cutting the 24" to 20...but it is fluted.
Personally, at least in true use, I don't think all of the rails, etc, are necessary. You just want an accurate semiauto to varmint with.
I am actually in the process of building a 16" M4 barrel AR15 and leaning towards "light is better!" for me.
Using a lightweight ACE stock, the M4 profile barrel, and 10 round mags, I believe this will fit my needs.
I would not turn down an 18 or 20" barrel of HBar configuration.
1:9 will stabilize everything from 75 gr AMax to 40 gr Nosler BT's. 1:8 to stabilize 80 gr Amax and Sierra MatchKings. 1:7 or 7.5 for heavier than that.
In terms of lightweight, I have not held in hand or used any of the aftermarket free float tubes or plastic lowers. maybe somebody else can chime in.
My build will use a YHM rifle length aluminum free float tube, that I will drill/mill myself to lighten. I like a longer forend than carbine length for ease of handling and to put a bipod on. YHM has a low profile gas block that allows your free float tube to fit over and covers the gas block.
Surplassammo dot com has the most reasonable barrel prices that I have found. Chrome moly will work fine. Stainless is an excellent choice as well...but a touch heavier.
Don't get caught up in the cool/hip stuff. You will just end up with a lot of money into something that is heavy, cuts your hand on the forearm rails, etc, etc.... I will be less than $700 in a complete AR with all new parts (including a nickel boron coated BCG)...google is your new best friend!
I don't understand how "varmint" and "walking" go together. Varmint hunting usually consists of a stationary shooting position.
A "predator" rifle, means light, easy to carry. And, thusly, means walking...
A coyote, bobcat, wolf, etc are predators, not varmints.
Heavy barrels are around for, generally, one purpose. The extra material takes longer to heat up and will change POI less over a string of shots. I still can't see why folks take a bull barreled rifle for a walk, stand to stand, hunting predators.
Also, barrel length and accuracy are not necessarily tied together. A short barrel can certainly be more accurate then a longer barrel. The real advantage of a longer barrel is more speed. Not accuracy...
Of you really plan on walking with the rifle, the varmint contours make no sense. A medium or standard profile is ideal, IME.
A "predator" rifle, means light, easy to carry. And, thusly, means walking...
A coyote, bobcat, wolf, etc are predators, not varmints.
Heavy barrels are around for, generally, one purpose. The extra material takes longer to heat up and will change POI less over a string of shots. I still can't see why folks take a bull barreled rifle for a walk, stand to stand, hunting predators.
Also, barrel length and accuracy are not necessarily tied together. A short barrel can certainly be more accurate then a longer barrel. The real advantage of a longer barrel is more speed. Not accuracy...
Of you really plan on walking with the rifle, the varmint contours make no sense. A medium or standard profile is ideal, IME.
Heretic
Active member
Originally Posted By: pahntr760I don't understand how "varmint" and "walking" go together. Varmint hunting usually consists of a stationary shooting position.
A "predator" rifle, means light, easy to carry. And, thusly, means walking...
A coyote, bobcat, wolf, etc are predators, not varmints.
Heavy barrels are around for, generally, one purpose. The extra material takes longer to heat up and will change POI less over a string of shots. I still can't see why folks take a bull barreled rifle for a walk, stand to stand, hunting predators.
Also, barrel length and accuracy are not necessarily tied together. A short barrel can certainly be more accurate then a longer barrel. The real advantage of a longer barrel is more speed. Not accuracy...
Of you really plan on walking with the rifle, the varmint contours make no sense. A medium or standard profile is ideal, IME.
+1 This. A 24" varmint bbl AR is a beetch to carry, mine tipped the scales at well over 15#.
I just picked up a RRA predator pursuit for my billet NFA lower (or Polymer NFA lower just to annoy mj-blahblahblah). This upper is not much more (if any) in weight than my M4 contour upper.
A "predator" rifle, means light, easy to carry. And, thusly, means walking...
A coyote, bobcat, wolf, etc are predators, not varmints.
Heavy barrels are around for, generally, one purpose. The extra material takes longer to heat up and will change POI less over a string of shots. I still can't see why folks take a bull barreled rifle for a walk, stand to stand, hunting predators.
Also, barrel length and accuracy are not necessarily tied together. A short barrel can certainly be more accurate then a longer barrel. The real advantage of a longer barrel is more speed. Not accuracy...
Of you really plan on walking with the rifle, the varmint contours make no sense. A medium or standard profile is ideal, IME.
+1 This. A 24" varmint bbl AR is a beetch to carry, mine tipped the scales at well over 15#.
I just picked up a RRA predator pursuit for my billet NFA lower (or Polymer NFA lower just to annoy mj-blahblahblah). This upper is not much more (if any) in weight than my M4 contour upper.
OldTurtle
Moderator - Deceased
Originally Posted By: dhc-6I am looking to convert one of my AR's to a varmint gun ....First, let's clarify the difference between Varmint and Predator...
A Varmint rifle, in my mind, involves the shooting of small targets at longer than normal hunting distances and is usually accomplished shooting from a stable platform...and is heavier than most people want to carry very far on a regular basis...
For "Varmints" I would consider something with a flat trajectory, higher than normal velocity capability, and a low recoil that allows you to see your hits through a scope...
If you are wanting to use the rifle for "Predators" and for general hunting applications, then you don't really want a "Varmint" rifle....
I have a custom built AR upper in .204 caliber that weighs in as a full rifle with optics at near 11.5 pounds that is very accurate for "Varmint" shooting...and it even has a shorter (22") barrel for weight reduction)...
Most of my "Predator" AR rifles weigh in much less and are 16" barrels...While they will shoot accurately out to 200 and 300 yards, I generally would not use them for longer distances on Varmints...
A Varmint rifle, in my mind, involves the shooting of small targets at longer than normal hunting distances and is usually accomplished shooting from a stable platform...and is heavier than most people want to carry very far on a regular basis...
For "Varmints" I would consider something with a flat trajectory, higher than normal velocity capability, and a low recoil that allows you to see your hits through a scope...
If you are wanting to use the rifle for "Predators" and for general hunting applications, then you don't really want a "Varmint" rifle....
I have a custom built AR upper in .204 caliber that weighs in as a full rifle with optics at near 11.5 pounds that is very accurate for "Varmint" shooting...and it even has a shorter (22") barrel for weight reduction)...
Most of my "Predator" AR rifles weigh in much less and are 16" barrels...While they will shoot accurately out to 200 and 300 yards, I generally would not use them for longer distances on Varmints...
mj36639
New member
Originally Posted By: aclocoFirst....a couple questions.
Are you planning on carrying this rifle? I would assume so, as it is a "varminter".
What do YOU want to end up with when you are done?
I have 24, 20, & 16" barrel length AR's. Guess which one is used the most...yep...16". Accurate to 400 and a touch further. The 20 is extremely accurate. I have seriously consider cutting the 24" to 20...but it is fluted.
Personally, at least in true use, I don't think all of the rails, etc, are necessary. You just want an accurate semiauto to varmint with.
I am actually in the process of building a 16" M4 barrel AR15 and leaning towards "light is better!" for me.
Using a lightweight ACE stock, the M4 profile barrel, and 10 round mags, I believe this will fit my needs.
I would not turn down an 18 or 20" barrel of HBar configuration.
1:9 will stabilize everything from 75 gr AMax to 40 gr Nosler BT's. 1:8 to stabilize 80 gr Amax and Sierra MatchKings. 1:7 or 7.5 for heavier than that.
In terms of lightweight, I have not held in hand or used any of the aftermarket free float tubes or plastic lowers. maybe somebody else can chime in.
My build will use a YHM rifle length aluminum free float tube, that I will drill/mill myself to lighten. I like a longer forend than carbine length for ease of handling and to put a bipod on. YHM has a low profile gas block that allows your free float tube to fit over and covers the gas block.
Surplassammo dot com has the most reasonable barrel prices that I have found. Chrome moly will work fine. Stainless is an excellent choice as well...but a touch heavier.
Don't get caught up in the cool/hip stuff. You will just end up with a lot of money into something that is heavy, cuts your hand on the forearm rails, etc, etc.... I will be less than $700 in a complete AR with all new parts (including a nickel boron coated BCG)...google is your new best friend!
Wait a minute. Im not understanding something here. What .224 bullets that are heavier than 80 grains are you refering to for an AR with a 1/7 barrel? 1/9 twist is sufficient for a 75AMAX? The 75 AMAX is longer than the Nosler and Sierra 77 grain OTM's. What overall length are you loading the 75 AMAX and 80 grain SMK to?
Are you planning on carrying this rifle? I would assume so, as it is a "varminter".
What do YOU want to end up with when you are done?
I have 24, 20, & 16" barrel length AR's. Guess which one is used the most...yep...16". Accurate to 400 and a touch further. The 20 is extremely accurate. I have seriously consider cutting the 24" to 20...but it is fluted.
Personally, at least in true use, I don't think all of the rails, etc, are necessary. You just want an accurate semiauto to varmint with.
I am actually in the process of building a 16" M4 barrel AR15 and leaning towards "light is better!" for me.
Using a lightweight ACE stock, the M4 profile barrel, and 10 round mags, I believe this will fit my needs.
I would not turn down an 18 or 20" barrel of HBar configuration.
1:9 will stabilize everything from 75 gr AMax to 40 gr Nosler BT's. 1:8 to stabilize 80 gr Amax and Sierra MatchKings. 1:7 or 7.5 for heavier than that.
In terms of lightweight, I have not held in hand or used any of the aftermarket free float tubes or plastic lowers. maybe somebody else can chime in.
My build will use a YHM rifle length aluminum free float tube, that I will drill/mill myself to lighten. I like a longer forend than carbine length for ease of handling and to put a bipod on. YHM has a low profile gas block that allows your free float tube to fit over and covers the gas block.
Surplassammo dot com has the most reasonable barrel prices that I have found. Chrome moly will work fine. Stainless is an excellent choice as well...but a touch heavier.
Don't get caught up in the cool/hip stuff. You will just end up with a lot of money into something that is heavy, cuts your hand on the forearm rails, etc, etc.... I will be less than $700 in a complete AR with all new parts (including a nickel boron coated BCG)...google is your new best friend!
Wait a minute. Im not understanding something here. What .224 bullets that are heavier than 80 grains are you refering to for an AR with a 1/7 barrel? 1/9 twist is sufficient for a 75AMAX? The 75 AMAX is longer than the Nosler and Sierra 77 grain OTM's. What overall length are you loading the 75 AMAX and 80 grain SMK to?
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mj36639
New member
Originally Posted By: pahntr760I don't understand how "varmint" and "walking" go together. Varmint hunting usually consists of a stationary shooting position.
A "predator" rifle, means light, easy to carry. And, thusly, means walking...
A coyote, bobcat, wolf, etc are predators, not varmints.
Heavy barrels are around for, generally, one purpose. The extra material takes longer to heat up and will change POI less over a string of shots. I still can't see why folks take a bull barreled rifle for a walk, stand to stand, hunting predators.
Also, barrel length and accuracy are not necessarily tied together. A short barrel can certainly be more accurate then a longer barrel. The real advantage of a longer barrel is more speed. Not accuracy...
Of you really plan on walking with the rifle, the varmint contours make no sense. A medium or standard profile is ideal, IME.
Excellent advice.
A "predator" rifle, means light, easy to carry. And, thusly, means walking...
A coyote, bobcat, wolf, etc are predators, not varmints.
Heavy barrels are around for, generally, one purpose. The extra material takes longer to heat up and will change POI less over a string of shots. I still can't see why folks take a bull barreled rifle for a walk, stand to stand, hunting predators.
Also, barrel length and accuracy are not necessarily tied together. A short barrel can certainly be more accurate then a longer barrel. The real advantage of a longer barrel is more speed. Not accuracy...
Of you really plan on walking with the rifle, the varmint contours make no sense. A medium or standard profile is ideal, IME.
Excellent advice.
yotehunter243
New member
Go with a 16" standard contour, aluminum free float tube with either 1/8 or 1/9 twist and go kill coyotes.
I like a 9 twist, 18" barrel. It will stabilize any typical coyote bullet. The 18" is a nice length to get velocity up. An 8 or 7 twist will stabilize lighter bullets, too, but a slower twist with a matching bullet can yield better velocity, sometimes.
A 9 or 8 will likely work great for what you're intending.
A 9 or 8 will likely work great for what you're intending.
Widow maker 223
Active member
If weight is a issue get a 16" medium contour barrel. My 16" SS bull with scope and bipod weighs 10.5lbs. Its steady off hand i dont mind the weight. 1/9 twist is a good one, most will shoot 40-69gr bullets with no problem.
I think the OP is wanting to build a all around gun. Its his money and he can call it what ever he wants.
I think the OP is wanting to build a all around gun. Its his money and he can call it what ever he wants.
Widow maker 223
Active member
www.redxarms.com has some great prices on skinny SS barreled uppers that shoot awesome.
Get an 18 and a fluted barrel in 8 twist.
You can get that facotry in something like a Rock River A4 "varmint" or have someone like Dtech build you one.
You can get that facotry in something like a Rock River A4 "varmint" or have someone like Dtech build you one.
Don't know much about Colt. Is it a large or small pin?