will lower rings give me more elevation adjustment up?

j_valdez

j_valdez

New member
I mounted a leupold scope on a Savage 12 with medium rings. I maxed out the adjustment up and it shoots 3 inches low at 100 yrds with no adjustment up. If I buy lower rings will that give me more elevation up to play with?
 
You need higher rings or a 20moa base with with low or medium rings. But you shouldnt be running out of adjustment at 100 yards. sounds like something is wrong with your scope. What kind of scope is on the rifle?
 
yea, these rings seem pretty high for the scope i have mounted to it and i thought if i purchased lower rings it would bring it closer to the bore and give me more adjustment. someone advised to adjust it all the way down and recheck it again and adjust....
 
Changing height of both rings will not give you more or less adjustment. Your scope is not parallel to the bore or it would have sufficient adjustment @ 100 yds.

I would put a set of Burris Signature rings on it, mounted as close to bore as is possible w/comfortable cheek weld. The Signature rings allow you to tilt the scope in order to get very close to mechanical zero on your scope.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/416175/burris-1-signature-zee-weaver-style-rings-matte-medium

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/712472/...005-010-and-020

First you need to return your scope to mechanical zero (as much adjustment up as down; left as right. In other words the reticle needs to be centered in the tube. Next, mount scope and boresight it w/reticle @ mechanical zero. This will give you full adjustment that your scope is capable of.

Since you ran out of elevation, you need to mount the scope lower at the front than at the back. Using the different thickness inserts, this is easy to achieve according to the following instructions:

Quote:These offset inserts work only in Burris Signature Rings. One insert half is slightly thicker and the other slightly thinner than standard. Swapping the standard inserts with a pair of offset inserts will move the point of impact approximately 5" at 100 yards for the .005 inserts, 10" for the .010 and 20" for the .020. This will allow a gun to be sighted in that cannot be zeroed with the available windage and elevation adjustments in the scope. For serious shooters, the optional offset inserts allow a scope to be brought almost to complete zero, then using the windage and elevation adjustments only for the final, fine adjustment. This keeps the erector tube centered in the scope for improved scope clarity and performance. Includes "zero" inserts, other Pos-Align inserts can be purchased separately.

Not only will the Signature rings correct your problem, they provide perfect scope alignment without lapping scope rings and the plastic inserts prevent scope slippage, even on high recoil rifles. I won't mount a scope in any other ring.

Regards,
hm



 
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sounds like you might have the rings on backwards or they got drilled wrong at the factory if that is possible so the low one is on the front.either way you are not parallel
 
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Its the angle of the scope. I had this same problem with a burris and leupold rings. But your leupold has more adjustment than a burris fullfield, I would check your rings then I would look and the scope.
 
Quote:I would put a set of Burris Signature rings on it, mounted as close to bore as is possible w/comfortable cheek weld. The Signature rings allow you to tilt the scope in order to get very close to mechanical zero on your scope......+1....With the Burris Signature rings, you can get optional inserts that will give you +10 MoA or +20 MoA if needed for longer range shooting, plus the rings, with inserts, will keep you from marring your scope..

I installed a set of the Burris +/-10 MoA rings to give me adequate elevation for shooting 600 yards without stretching my scope adjustment...But for 100 yard shooting you should not need to worry about that...It should be almost dead on if the scope reticle is centered....
 
Ok, I took a closer look at the mounts and where it contacts the receiver. There is a washer located between the barrel and the action and it has a small lip where it meets the action. This washer is a bit larger than the receiver and if you run a finger nail you can feel it. I removed the one piece Leupold mount and took a closer look. The front mount was contacting the washer where it meets the action and I knew this because I had painted the rifle and a small area of the washer was free of camo paint. I dremeled a extremly small area of the mount where the contact was being made. Now Im am not sure if this was a problem but I will give it another try.
 
Originally Posted By: j_valdezOk, I took a closer look at the mounts and where it contacts the receiver. There is a washer located between the barrel and the action and it has a small lip where it meets the action. This washer is a bit larger than the receiver and if you run a finger nail you can feel it. I removed the one piece Leupold mount and took a closer look. The front mount was contacting the washer where it meets the action and I knew this because I had painted the rifle and a small area of the washer was free of camo paint. I dremeled a extremly small area of the mount where the contact was being made. Now Im am not sure if this was a problem but I will give it another try.


Sounds like you found the problem.
 



I have a Savage model 12. I have an older one and the back reciever has a flat on it. You may have the wrong bases. Check a base chart.

Or your scope is bad????
 
Originally Posted By: OldTurtleQuote:I would put a set of Burris Signature rings on it, mounted as close to bore as is possible w/comfortable cheek weld. The Signature rings allow you to tilt the scope in order to get very close to mechanical zero on your scope......+1....With the Burris Signature rings, you can get optional inserts that will give you +10 MoA or +20 MoA if needed for longer range shooting, plus the rings, with inserts, will keep you from marring your scope..

I installed a set of the Burris +/-10 MoA rings to give me adequate elevation for shooting 600 yards without stretching my scope adjustment...But for 100 yard shooting you should not need to worry about that...It should be almost dead on if the scope reticle is centered....


What He said.
 
Well it was not the problem. I placed a .030 shim on the rear while out at the range and it took care of it. I just need to get one and cut it and drill it for permanent use. Any ideas on what I can use. I hear brass is the best.
 
remove your scope base and then reinstall with only the front two screws and see if there is a gap at the rear of base. If there is a gap your base needs bedded to fix the problem.
 
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