How often should I have to retune my bow?

Although we do know cam type, we do not know draw length, bow poundage, arrow length, point weight, fletching type, arrow rest. Makes it impossible to diagnose proper arrow spine. Especially over the net!

I think my draw length is 26 to 27 inches. Shaft length of my arrows are 26.5 inches. I shoot 100 grn heads. I am using both factory installed blazer and quick fletch veins. Te bow is set somewhere near 58 pounds.
 
Originally Posted By: Yoteless in OhioAlthough we do know cam type, we do not know draw length, bow poundage, arrow length, point weight, fletching type, arrow rest. Makes it impossible to diagnose proper arrow spine. Especially over the net!

I think my draw length is 26 to 27 inches. Shaft length of my arrows are 26.5 inches. I shoot 100 grn heads. I am using both factory installed blazer and quick fletch veins. Te bow is set somewhere near 58 pounds.

26.5 inch 400 spine arrow being shot at 58lbs is DEFINATALY NOT a weak spined arrow. It is very much on the HEAVY spine side.
As i stated in the begining, your bows symptoms and paper tune are typical of a stiff spined shaft out of todays hybrid or single cam bows. Fix: increase poundage, increase point weight, change arrows to 500 spine, or longer 400 spine. After chosing which route you want to go, re-paper tune the bow and enjoy your season.
 
I believe I have cam lean issues after checking them with a straight edge. Hopefully I can get that straightened out fairly easily. Both cams lean towards the cables.
 
Last edited:
Cam lean at brace isnt that big of a deal. At full draw is were it matters as the cables get pulled towards the cable slide. With bareshaft tuning yOu can eliminate cam lean. But i think the indian matters more than the bow. I can shoot a out of tune bow and stack shafts. Im not saying a bow shouldnt be tuned but iv seen many people blame the bow when there form and follow thru are lacking. Google "nuts and bolts of archery". Allen is a genious when it comes to bows. It will help you understand somethings about your bow and working on them.
 
Well if your close to columbus ohio i would take it to fishermans warehouse that guy there knows exactly what hes doing....after i bought my bow used it had some problems and he fixed it right up
 
Refering to info from this thread, as well as PM's from Yoteless: It seems that over-tensioned roller stays (cable guards, cable stays) seem to be a common problem for Hoyt's of late, producing excessive cam lean both top and bottom (limb torque).

Does anyone know off the top how the "in-line roller guards" on Hoyt's are mounted? I'm going to swing by a shop tomorrow if I can to look, since it has piqued my interest, but if he can just back a few turns off of the tension screw (like Bowtech's flex guard), without causing clearance issues at full draw, that might be a good option here. (Of course, you'll have to re-align your cam, since you already took some twists out today to straighten the top cam).

All of that is contingent upon whether the correction you made today for the upper cam doesn't end up correcting the lower cam lean as well after a few shots. Things should "work themselves out" for the Fuel Cam (Cam & 1/2) bows if you can get the cables balanced.
 
I've worked on and tuned several. Never had to try to adjust their roller to get it done. So i cant help you out with how the mounting would be changed. might give Hoyt a call and ask.
We used to serve their old floating yokes shut at the cable yoke juncture to control their cam lean though.
 
Fixed Roller guards can cause some pains when trying to tune. Doesnt make sense why they even still make em. They induce tons of torque on the cams. The flex roller guards are a way better set up.
 
I'm making progress and varmint or and everyone here has been a big help.

His comment about the cam lean on Hoyt's after I told him I pulled the same bow off of the shelf at a shop and e lean was almost identical. The owner of the shop says they have all been that way.

Still more work to do but I am moving on to paper running as best I can and then finishing my setup for hunting.
 
Ok doa. Here is what I have done. Started with 12" groups at 30 yards. Now I'm shooting 3" groups at 30 yards. Here is what I did.

Had center shot adjusted at archery stop at cabelas. That helped a little.

Tested other arrow splines, appeared that I had the right ones.

Had timing adjusted at a pro shop, timing was off, though when I bought it they said it would not need timed.

Marked both cams with a sharpie to monitor cam timing.

Discovered my string loop was over sized. Had it replaced.

Bought a proper arrow spinner, spin tested my arrows and broadheads. They all spin true.

Powder tested the rest, riser strings to check for fetching contact. Was not an issue.

Checked cam lean. Both cams leaned towards the riser. Had top cam straightened. Ended up over straightening, and went back. Top cam is almost perfect, bottom cam appears to not be able to be straightened, but it is not bad enough to hop the string off.

Set up my own paper tuning range in my basement. Before all of this it was tearing low left. Now it Is high right. I moved the rest left. Started just tearing high. Moved my string loop down, had no effect. Moved some more down, no effect. Put it back to original position. Settling for half inch high tear is year.

On a good day I am getting 2" at 30 yards.

Broadheads are grouping 6" at 30 yards.

I am going to stop fooling with it and get some mechanicals now. I a running out of time.

Next year I am going to:

Replace my whisker bis quit with a drop away rest.

Move my peep sight up higher. Someone told me today at the range I was putting my head awfully low to line up.

Try to find a Hoyt expert and see if they can get a little bit of valley into the bow. It has zero valley.this is my least favorite part of e bow.

Might sell the bow and start over!

I shot 3d for the very first time today. It was a great experience. I shot much better than I could have hoped. I am ready to go outand kill a deer now. I feel confident that with a good mechanical I will be lethal to 35 yards.

Varmint error played a big part in this. Thanks to him and Thanks everyone else.

Sorry of all e typos. It's a pain typing on an iPad.
 
Last edited:
So for a final followup. I went to the range again today at lunch and took my broadheads.

Still shooting poor groups. Then I went back to basics. I took half a dozen arrows and marked each one. I put my g5 practice head on them one at a time and shot them.

Two hit perfect to where the field points hit, four did not.

I put the two good ones aside.

I took the remaining four arrows and the practice broadhead head and one at a time twisted the knock 180 degrees. I found that one of them would not twist, and must be glued in place (I did that years ago)

Two that would turn instantly started shooting better. I put those two aside.

I took a different broadhead (4 blade magnus) and shot it with the two remaining arrows. One started shooting good and the final one would not shoot.

I put the "magnus" arrow aside.

The final arrow with the glued nock will not shoot any broadhead that I have. It is fine with a field point.

So with this simple exercise I have six arrows to put in my quiver. 4 with G5 Montecs, which will be my primary hunting arrow, 1 with a magnus stinger, for 20 yard or less finishing shots or varmints, and one field point for checking zero or shooting small game.

Each arrow is marked with I, M, or F for the head I will use with it.

I also might refletch the two that didnt fly well with the montecs. You never know, maybe the fletching was just off a touch. They look a little strange on those two arrows.

I am pretty well set assuming that I can put my "sharp" G5 hunting heads on the arrows that shot my practice heads well and not have any change in shots. I had two practice heads and shot them interchangeable and they shot the same from each arrow so I am guessing I am good.

In the end, after I got the bow pretty well tuned up, it was the arrows. I was taking three arrows at a time with me to the range. I may have had one or two of the arrows that were not cooperating in that group of three. Now my G5s and field points shoot interchangeable. With the exception of a five yard difference for each pin. With field points pins are set at 25 and 35. With broadheads it is 20 and 30.

What a relief!!!!
 
Last edited:
Always something! At least you got it lined out!

I do a lot of bareshaft nock tuning for every set of arrows I buy. Don't usually see a lot of difference, but it's fun, and helps me sleep at night!
 
Back
Top