Best coating for a ROUGH piece of metal??

JustC

New member
OK, so many thanks for your input on my "cerakote or duracoat" thread, it was very educational. However, in my research I see that cerakote (the clear winner) goes on very thin. My latest "build" was on an old M98 action that had some pitting along the stock line etc. Needless to say, it is a little rough externally, but I just couldn't justify throwing it away.

So, I see gunkote goes on thicker, and figure that may be a better option.

anyone have a suggestion as to what product will help to fill in some of the pitting?? Also, can I fill some of these pits with marine-tex and sand that out before spraying a coating??
 
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I don't know as I have never done this. But I imagine you could pray Cerakote on the damaged area(s) maybe multiple coats (would coat let cure, coat let cure, etc.) to get it on thick enough to cover the imperfections. Then use a fine grit sand paper like 600 and sand it down to to a smooth even finish with the rest of the barrel. Re-clean with acetone and then spray the Cerakote as you normally would to the entire project.
Just an idea.
I have sanded some Cerakote down with fine sand paper with great results. It can really smooth out a surface and give it a very matte appearance.
 
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I took a rusty 870 to the autobody shop. They bead blasted the whole gun and then sprayed on a primer coat for me. That stuff is tough as nails and smooth as glass. I then used Krylon over top. It's bulletproof now.
 
Originally Posted By: bownutI took a rusty 870 to the autobody shop. They bead blasted the whole gun and then sprayed on a primer coat for me. That stuff is tough as nails and smooth as glass. I then used Krylon over top. It's bulletproof now.

do you mean automotive primer?
 
yes...the stuff was like a white enamel. Looks like the hard, baked on finish on a stove or refrigerator. I just lightly sanded the primer and Krylon'd over top. I guarantee it will NOT rust anymore, and it leveled off the "pits" just fine. Just watch out for anywhere there's tight tolerances, like inside the bolt raceway. When they did the magazine tube on the 870, the forend tube wouldn't fit. The finish was pretty thick, I had to sand it down quite a bit for the forend to fit over it.
 
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An alternative might be to stop by your local NAPA auto parts store and get a $10 rattle can of "Self Etching" primer..Apply a coat to the pitted spot and buff off the excess spray with 600+ grit emery cloth until the pits are filled in...

I've used this primer on almost every weapon that I've painted and had no problems with it coming loose, chipping, or peeling...The 10mm 1911 below had a really crappy blue finish on it..

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And I used it as a primary base undercoat/color on three ARs...

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these pits are pretty deep guys, but just a few spots along the stock line. Would something like marinetex be faster? and will the coatings adhere to it??
 
While I understand your concern about the depth of the pitting, you will be much better off applying several light, fine, coats and working up to the surface than trying to fill the pits with a heavier substance and relying on it to be fully dry when you attempt to cover it..Been there, done that..

Most of your fillers will tend to shrink with time and/or temperature changes...You don't want to expend the resources to put a fine finish on an item only to have it crack loose at a later time due to shrinkage of the base material...
 
I would prep with the marine tex first...it sets up very hard and the area can then be sanded and prepped. Use the coating (whatever you use) as a coating. Prep first.
 
blast it with alum-oxide .... My guess is with a good blast even the bad pits will be blended enough that once coated they wont bother you. Then spray it Brownells AlumaHide. It goes on a little thicked then the others. Then be prepared to let it sit for 2 weeks as this stuff takes forevcer to cure completely.

If you are anywhere near SE SD i'll blast it for you.
 
Originally Posted By: pd721elblast it with alum-oxide .... My guess is with a good blast even the bad pits will be blended enough that once coated they wont bother you. Then spray it Brownells AlumaHide. It goes on a little thicked then the others. Then be prepared to let it sit for 2 weeks as this stuff takes forevcer to cure completely.

If you are anywhere near SE SD i'll blast it for you.

much appreciate that offer, but I am on the East Coast
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Originally Posted By: nastynatesfishI know dura coat has a metal filler that is for just that, though I've never used it.

I use DuraFill quite regularly and it works great. It will even fill the "Read the Owners Manual" crap that everyone feels is necessary to engrave on top of your new rifle barrels. A well prepped, applied and cured coat of DuraCoat will last several lifetimes for 90% of the people in the world. After all, we are not all "operators" or "tactical".
 
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