I changed the hand guard on my 6.8 yesterday and the barrel nut/delta ring was so tight, it took two of us to loosen it. We had the receiver in a block and I held the wrench in place while my buddy worked the wrench. And, we were using an 18 in. breakover with the wrench. He weighs over 250 and is pretty stout and took all we could do to break it loose. Is this normal? I re-tightened the new one as tight as I could, but no where near that tight.
Tightening a barrel nut?
- Thread starter pyscodog
- Start date
IIRC the torque range is from 30ish to 70 to 80 ftlbs. The bogieman is timing the barrel nut. Absent some form of siezing betwee the nut and receiver, I don't think yours should been that hard to loosen.
I've really gotten to like the d-tech arrangement that separates timing the "nut" and torquing the barrel into two operations. I torqued my last one to 40 holding the nut in a padded vise and using one of Brownell's locking lug torque tools. Worked great.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=27452/Product/AR-15-M16-BARREL-EXTENSION-TORQUE-TOOL
I've really gotten to like the d-tech arrangement that separates timing the "nut" and torquing the barrel into two operations. I torqued my last one to 40 holding the nut in a padded vise and using one of Brownell's locking lug torque tools. Worked great.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=27452/Product/AR-15-M16-BARREL-EXTENSION-TORQUE-TOOL
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Originally Posted By: bushywas there any loctite involved?... I have known a few builders to use loctite on the barrel nut and makes it a real bugger to remove...sometimes I heat it up real good first with a torch and then it breaks free a bit bitter. 40 foot pounds is a good spec. to put the new one.
+1
+1
hylander
Active member
Unless Loc-tite was involved, that was way to tight.
I beleive actual spec is about 33-70ft lb.
I would never go over 70ft. lb. which is still to high.
I set mine at about 42ft. lb. with no Loc-tite
If the holes don't line up at that, I face the receiver or get a new nut that will line up at that spec.
I beleive actual spec is about 33-70ft lb.
I would never go over 70ft. lb. which is still to high.
I set mine at about 42ft. lb. with no Loc-tite
If the holes don't line up at that, I face the receiver or get a new nut that will line up at that spec.
Originally Posted By: hylanderUnless Loc-tite was involved, that was way to tight.
I beleive actual spec is about 33-70ft lb.
I would never go over 70ft. lb. which is still to high.
I set mine at about 42ft. lb. with no Loc-tite
If the holes don't line up at that, I face the receiver or get a new nut that will line up at that spec.
If you don't need a bunch of rails, you might take a look at Mike M's (D tech) float tubes. He uses a double nut system. The outer nut is a larger ID than the barrel flange so it just slips over the barrel and threads onto the upper receiver. The ID of the outer nut is threaded to accept a second (externally threaded) steel insert that mates up with barrel flange. You time the larger nut with the gas tube port on the upper and locktite it in place. Then just run the insert into the outer nut and torque it to whatever you want.
I used a vise to hold the flats on the insert and used Brownells tool (see above) and a 1/2" drive torque wrench to put it at exactly 40 ftlbs.
I don't know mike from Adam, but have to say this works really well.
I beleive actual spec is about 33-70ft lb.
I would never go over 70ft. lb. which is still to high.
I set mine at about 42ft. lb. with no Loc-tite
If the holes don't line up at that, I face the receiver or get a new nut that will line up at that spec.
If you don't need a bunch of rails, you might take a look at Mike M's (D tech) float tubes. He uses a double nut system. The outer nut is a larger ID than the barrel flange so it just slips over the barrel and threads onto the upper receiver. The ID of the outer nut is threaded to accept a second (externally threaded) steel insert that mates up with barrel flange. You time the larger nut with the gas tube port on the upper and locktite it in place. Then just run the insert into the outer nut and torque it to whatever you want.
I used a vise to hold the flats on the insert and used Brownells tool (see above) and a 1/2" drive torque wrench to put it at exactly 40 ftlbs.
I don't know mike from Adam, but have to say this works really well.
GMM
New member
I usually use a dab of antisieze on reciever (a little goes a long way) and start torque at 35ft-lbs. I then check alighnment with gas tube holes, if one lines up I run it there, if not, I torque till one does making sure not to go over 75 to 80ft-lbs.
I use an electronic torque wrench so it is real easy to check torque, but it is expensive (good thing it has other uses). A good old fasion bar or lever type will work too, just keep an eye on the pointer and dont go over 75 to 80ft-lbs.
The reason for antisieze is to keep the nut and upper from galling. It is the best thing I have found, we trust it in high stress areas on heavy equipment, and it wont burn off or turn liquid as easily as grease will, and if you ever need to remove the nut, it will come off as easily as it went on.
Only thing about antisieze is that it will spread all over if it is not used sparingly. One drop will spread a quarter mile.
The set up D tech uses sounds like an awsome way to go also, may have to check one out.
I use an electronic torque wrench so it is real easy to check torque, but it is expensive (good thing it has other uses). A good old fasion bar or lever type will work too, just keep an eye on the pointer and dont go over 75 to 80ft-lbs.
The reason for antisieze is to keep the nut and upper from galling. It is the best thing I have found, we trust it in high stress areas on heavy equipment, and it wont burn off or turn liquid as easily as grease will, and if you ever need to remove the nut, it will come off as easily as it went on.
Only thing about antisieze is that it will spread all over if it is not used sparingly. One drop will spread a quarter mile.
The set up D tech uses sounds like an awsome way to go also, may have to check one out.