Making a set of shooting sticks

[hm1996]

Last year was a rough one on my shooting sticks, but since they were 9 years old, I guess they didn't owe me too much. Any rate, my partner tripped over one set of sitting sticks and my standing sticks were only 3/8" dia. which proved to be a bit light for that length stick.

Picked up materials for 2 sets sitting and one set standing sticks at Lowes:

2 ea. ¾” x 8’ Garden Stakes @ 5.98 ea = 11.96
4 ea. 3/8 x 4’ Garden Stakes @ 1.98 ea= 7.92 Total $19.88

Rest of the materials needed were on hand: J B Weld, two headed nails, ¼” threaded rod, parachute chord and re-used the tygon tubing and camo net from old sticks. I slip the tygon tubing over sticks at top to protect rifle stock finish.

Started by cutting off the two headed nails, grinding the end head off nails and sharpening end. Next drilled 3/16" holes in poly plugs of the short sticks, then glue these spikes in end of sticks using J B Weld.

Next lash the sticks together w/parachute chord. Top picture above shows starting w/clove hitch. Next step is a clove hitch on the other stick, then several wraps around both sticks. I prefer to do figure eights as this results in a tighter lashing than the typical "boy scout" method. A clove hitch on each stick completes the lashing. I have found that the lashing tends to slip up or down with use, so apply a few drops of super glue to the knots on both ends which prevents slippage of knots or lashing on the sticks.

After adding the gillie netting, shown below. Have found the netting on sticks a lot better in the thorny brush than trying to use a gillie suit, but that's just me.

I generally use a set of these sticks with the lashing @ 39" and my partner prefers his @ 42".

Next, I cut the 3/4" stakes to 6' length and proceeded as above with one exception. Instead of nail spikes, I made the spikes from 1/4" allthread Drilled 9/32" hole in plugs to glue in the spikes.

I really like the heavier standing sticks as you can lean into them a bit more for a more stable offhand platform.

Personally, after trying several different bipods, I find sticks a lot more versatile and you can't beat the price on these homemade custom made sticks

. Besides, ya can't poke a rattlesnake very well with a bipod.

Regards,
hm

 

[flyrodder]

I have made several sets out of the garden stakes but I found that they bend to easy. I now use electric fence posts. They are 3/8"od fiberglass. They may flex but they don't bend. Connected at the top using a piece of 3/8"id tubing 8" long with a 3" section cut out of the middle half way through the tubing. Then installing 2 green castration bands under the tubing to keep the tubing from sliding down.
Flyrodder

 

[Bill 204]

I made a set out of fiberglass electric fence post from Tractor Supply and used castratng rings to hold them together, I camoed them up.They work good.

About 5.00 total cost

 

[gman2153]

1/2" wooden dowels,

BIG RUBBER BANDS ( broccoli types)

I glue short sections of foam pipe insulation on the top sections (top of V) where the gun will rest - quiet/stable).

and a couple of sections below - better grip on sticks..

HOT GLUE GUN works great to fill void between dowel and pipe insulation.

I added a couple of heavy finish nails to the bottom of the dowels to help anchor into ground.

for storage,transport - a rubber band around the bottom.

Works great - total investment < $5.
Weighs - next to nothing.

here's a pic of my REDNECK Engineering Project:

 

[Bill 204]

Gman, I like the insulation idea, will keep the hands warmer.

Thanks

 

[canislatrans54]

My 1st set of sticks were very similar to yours.
But yours look much better.LOL

Mine are "sitting" length.
Made from 1/2" X 36" garden stakes.
I didn't add anything, like your spikes.
I just left them the way I bought them.

Made a "pivot point", about 4"-6" from tops.
Drilled a hole thru both (size ?).
Then used a #10 machine screw & nut to hold them together.
I put about 3-4 nylon washers between the sticks, as a spacer, and so the sticks would be able to move.
Then I covered the top ends with rubber hose.

If I remember, I may take a pic of them. LOL
I haven't used them for years. They just hang on a nail in the wall.
I replaced them a few years ago, with a Rapid Bipod.

 

[hm1996]

Bill 204 &/or flyrodder: I have never had any trouble w/the shorter garden stakes bending (but ya can't step on them sideways

). The longer ones (6') will bend if you lean too hard on them. I am interested in the fiberglass stakes as they may be a bit more durable?? May need to travel to a Tractor Supply and give them a try.

I failed to mention in my original post that we use children's folding camp chairs (seat about 12" off ground) rather than sitting on the ground so need the 48" sticks as opposed to 36". How long are the TS fiberglass fence posts? Are they solid or tubing?

Have tried 0 rings for connecting the legs, but found that they tend to weather, crack and break at the most inopportune time.

I've tried several commercial (folding, for sitting & kneeling) sticks but they flex too much to suite me and the garden stakes are much more solid. The standing, telescoping sticks are a bit of a hassle to set up for use, so prefer solid sticks and the garden stakes are light and double as walking stick so no problem to carry, especially in snake country.

Will, I haven't seen the 1/2" garden stakes but think they would probably be better than the 3/4" if available in 6' or greater length. 1/2" should be plenty stout for standing.

Regards,
hm

 

[flyrodder]

I believe the fiberglass posts are 48". I cut mine off to 36" for setting. They are solid. They have a pointed end. My neighbor gave me an old blind that had 6 hollow fiberglass 3/8"od poles of varying lengths . I ended up with one 36" set, one 48" set and a 60" set. They had a 2" piece of coating on the end that grabbed the ground well.
Try the 8" X 3/8"id tubing with the 3" gap cut in the tubing, sliding the gap over both ends of the sticks. No bolt is needed to hold the sticks together. The tubing holds the sticks together and protects the gun finish from contacting the sticks. The castration bands keep the sticks from sliding in the tubing and you can adjust up or down by moving the bands. I'd use pictures but I'm so computer illiterate, its pitiful.
Flyrodder

 

[canislatrans54]

Here's the promised pic.

I forgot that I had also painted them to better fit into the grasses around here.
I noticed that if I ever decide to use them again, I ought to repaint them.LOL

 

[hm1996]

Thanks for the info, flyrodder. I did a search for TS and came up w/description and you are correct on the 48".

http://www.tractorsupply.com/sun-guard-ii-fiberglass-post-3600980

I plan to pick up a couple to play with next time I am in the vicinity of a TS. Don't really need another set currently, but curious to see if they are any stiffer than the hollow metal stakes. Looked for something longer and all I found was oak garden stakes:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/hickory-oak-gardening-stake-72-in--6853605

These might work OK but probably a bit heavier than the hollow metal ones.

Hey, Will, nothing wrong with those sticks, unless ya let the coyotes get close enough to inspect the paint job.

Regards,
hm

 

[gman2153]

Originally Posted By: canislatrans54Here's the promised pic.

I forgot that I had also painted them to better fit into the grasses around here.
I noticed that if I ever decide to use them again, I ought to repaint them.LOL

THEY LOOK SWEET..

The length of my sticks are about 3'6" (not exactly sure).
I made them that length so I can adjust them for uneven ground situations.

Also - they spread out great and are custom fitted to my sitting height (atop my redneck-engineered camo-bucket shown in my pic..
The nails in the bottom of the dowels assure a good bite into hard ground so the sticks don't kick out when the weight of the gun is added.

*** Contractor-Grade Heavy Duty Drywall Bucket was used to support my Wide-Body...

 

[hm1996]

Originally Posted By: gman2153*** Contractor-Grade Heavy Duty Drywall Bucket was used to support my Wide-Body...

Know what ya mean, there, gman.

The beauty about sticks is their versatility. In addition to a great shooting platform, I use mine for walking staff, route out any snakes in the grass, drag stuff out of pickup bed, and a few other chores as they arise.

I sit on a children's folding camp chair from Academy. Unfortunately they don't seem to carry this chair any longer. It is sturdy enough for my 200# frame, high enough for an old man to get up from, low enough to allow placing elbows on knees for stability, and is easy to carry.

A few years ago I needed to check the 300 yd. POI on my 375 h&h and found a new use for shooting sticks:

Can't do that w/a bipod!

Regards,
hm

 

[flyrodder]

hm, I see by the sling looped over the sticks that this isn't your first day on the job.

I put my sling over one stick and grasp it at the X. That way I can move the sticks to the side if needed and if I lift the rifle up off of the sticks, with the sling around them, they won't fall away.
Flyrodder

 

[hm1996]

Originally Posted By: flyrodderhm, I see by the sling looped over the sticks that this isn't your first day on the job.

I put my sling over one stick and grasp it at the X. That way I can move the sticks to the side if needed and if I lift the rifle up off of the sticks, with the sling around them, they won't fall away.
Flyrodder

Right on, flyrodder. I sling all my rifles "backwards" so that the sling loop can be slipped over one stick. In addition to above mentioned benefits, this allows you to turn the rifle loose, freeing both hands to use binoculars, etc., and not worry about sticks sliding from under the rifle and dumping muzzle in the dirt.

Works great standing as well; leaning into the sticks and grasping the X and sling allows shooter to pull the rifle (& sticks) back into the shoulder,making shooter/sticks one unit for a much more stable shooting position.

Regards,
hm

 

[gman2153]

great tip with the sling

I will adopt that one..

Thank You...

 

[White Smoke]

You can make a really great set by just buying two 3/8 or 1/2-inch dowels and one stainless steel bolt, nut and three washers. Just drill a hole through the dowels about 4" from one end and run the bolt through the holes with one washer at the head, one at the nut and one between the sticks. After building them, you can pad the top end (if you want to) by wrapping the stick with duct tape. Finish it with a spray can camo job. The finished sticks are quick to make, really sturdy and work like a champ.