Done with the drill motor..

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I'm ready to see a video of it in action. What motor are you using, a stepper? Can you adjust the speed of it? What is the range for speed if so? Any more details about it you want to share, feel free. I'm sure I'm not the only one really interested in your project.
 
Thanks Guys! Well i wish i was smart enough to do a little video but i AINT... Done the final setup on it this morning and started to run what emptys i had laying around, well just a little over 1 hr i had 700 rounds annealed and ready for case prep. the speed is adjustable and has a wide range and can be set were it needs to be set, i used a Tempilstik to get the speed adjusted for about 825 deg's which I could only find a 800 deg tempilstik and stayed right @ that temputure.. I'll let my Buddy step in and give the Spec's on the motor and components for the machine because he did all the reserch on what was needed, all i had to do was put some type of legs on it and decide on what i wanted for hose's/fitting's to run the propane thru and it works great, one thing that i need to change is have a shut off valve at the tank. there is still alot of propane in the lines when you unscrew the bottle and dont ask me how i know that
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It took me about 45 minutes to build it after i had all the parts for it. I got the blade and plans from jmorris on the snipershide, he will sell you the blade and a detailed drawing for $60 and the motor is a 12v 17rpm dayton from Grainger. The rest is just some scrap aluminum and some nuts and bolts and all thread. I got the powersupply at walmart, the torches at lowes. so none of it is too hard to find
 
Originally Posted By: Tim NeitzkeSweet !
Now I can just send my stuff to you to do !
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Heck yah Tim send it my way, just make sure it is something I can shoot
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Originally Posted By: Bman

"Brass is well done in both pictures, put in the scrap pile."




There is nothing wrong with ANY of the brass on this thread.

The difference on color is due to the difference in fuel gas (propane or natural gas, or other), and the mix of air to fuel gas. Very colorful brass comes from torches that have an excess of air - almost colorless brass comes from torches that have an excess of fuel and are somewhat air deficient.

Here is some interesting data that will dispel some of the wives tales (passed on by the know-nothings) about annealing.

Data on brass...

Physical Properties
Density 0.308 lb/in³

Mechanical Properties
Hardness, Rockwell B 91
Hardness, HR30T 77
Tensile Strength, Ultimate 94300 psi
Elongation at Break 3.00 % In 50 mm
Fatigue Strength 23200 psi
Machinability 30 % UNS C36000 (free-cutting brass) = 100%
Shear Modulus 5800 ksi
Shear Strength 47900 psi

Thermal Properties
Specific Heat Capacity 0.0896 BTU/lb-°F
Thermal Conductivity 120 W/m-K
Melting Point 1680 - 1750 °F

Processing Properties
Annealing Temperature 797 - 1380 °F
Hot-Working Temperature 1340 - 1560 °F

NOTE THE ANNEALING TEMPERATURE!!!!

Now here is something on what things look like at what temperature...


Color °F
Faint Red 930
Blood Red 1075
Dark Cherry 1175
Medium Cherry 1275
Cherry 1375
Bright Cherry 1450


So... when you see the neck and shoulder become full cherry red, you are still inside of the annealing zone, and if you DO NOT see red, you might not have reached the annealing temperature, and all you've done is put pretty colors on your case necks.

So, this is not "my opinion" about the temperature - this is standard metallurgy science.

People that tell you that you have ruined your cases if you exceed 475, have no idea of what they are talking about - at 475, all you have done is waste propane.

I keep the lights low - a florescent on, 10 feet behind me, no light at the annealing place. Then I heat the cases until I see the necks and maybe the shoulder turn read, but not "bright red", then I drop it on a crumpled piece of aluminum foil to cool.


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