Threadlocker on DNZ Game reaper mount?

packhunter

packhunter

New member
I am installing a Ziess Conquest scope onto my Tikka T3 light .243
I purchased a one-piece DNZ Gamereaper mount and I found online instructions from the manufacture that states the following....

*DO NOT USE any type of thread locker on our mounts. It is not needed with our 5/8 long ring screws. It will void the lifetime warranty. It is not needed on our mounts. Do not return if any type of thread locker has been used

Here is a link to the website where these instructions are located
http://www.dnzproducts.com/index.php?cPath=42&main_page=index




The online instructions only mention the longer ring screws, and not the screws for attaching the base of the mount to the rifle. It sounds to me that any loctite used will void warranty although I am not too concerned with it braking and more with the scope coming loose in the field, which leads to my question....

Can I just torque the base screws down and not worry about my scope mount loosening? Or should I use some purple or blue loctite? (I will not be using loctite on the ring screws)
For those of you who have this mount on your rifle, did you use loctite to secure the base?
 
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It is never a good idea to use Loctite on dissimilar metals. i.e. steel screws in aluminum rings. It is not necessary on any quality aluminum rings. If you use even blue Loctite and you need to remove the screws for whatever reason you stand a better than average chance of pulling the threads out when you unscrew. I learned this the hard way a few years ago on a client's rings.I had used Blue Loctite a couple years before on his rings. He upgraded his scope and brought it to me to mount. When I removed the screws about 80% of the threads came out of the rings. There was not enough metal in the rings to drill out and tap larger so I had to give him a new set of rings.
 
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Originally Posted By: HardwickNI didnt use any locktite. if you torque the screws down with a torque wrench it is not needed. Same here for no loctite. You do not need it. If you have to use something use clear fingernail polish. With the DNZ I would listen to their instructions. Torque the screws down and run with it. It will not vibrate loose.
 
I recently had problems with a scope moving on several different occasions in a game reaper mounted on my 30-06. Took off the rings and applied some of my wife's fingernail polish to the threads of the screws and then retightened. Haven't had a problem since! I'd suggest doing it from the start.
 
I used clear nail polish on the base screws, always have, always will! Used nothing on the ring screws. No troubles in about 2 yrs.
Cheers
 
Here's a little trick I learned from archery equipment. I use bow string wax, any wax should work, on the threads. it keeps the screws/bolts from vibrating loose and prevents the steel parts from corroding. I did this on my DNZ mount and it works great. I have mounted it on 3 different uppers and scopes so far with no problems.
 
I guess it's good i don't plan on takeing any of my scopes off as i have used blue loctite on both the game reaper mounts and the talley mounts. No- where on the packaging does it say to not use it- I read everything on them. It didn't say anything about "special online instructions".

I have 2 sets of the talley's and one of the DNZ. I think the talley's were only $30 and the DNZ's were $50. So if I "have" to take them off some day i will just have to buy new mounts i guess. I have high quality scopes on all 3 of these so hopefully they can stay on for my lifetime. I will know better next time
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I know the blue loctite doesn't hurt anything on steel on steel for the mounts cuz i have had my ruger rings apart several times (went through a stage of cheap scopes when i was younger)and used loctite each time and they are still holding.
 
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farmer44mag, If you want to take off the rings and bases all you have to do is get a propane torch and heat up an allen wrench while it is in the allen socket. Only put heat on the allen wrench,nothing else, this will heat the adhesive up and make it runny and then you can release the screws. Use a different allen wrench to loosen the screws as the one you heated will bend. This was told to me by A.P.A. when I asked them how to get blue loctited screws from the base. Hope this helps.
 
Originally Posted By: yotekiller47farmer44mag, If you want to take off the rings and bases all you have to do is get a propane torch and heat up an allen wrench while it is in the allen socket. Only put heat on the allen wrench,nothing else, this will heat the adhesive up and make it runny and then you can release the screws. Use a different allen wrench to loosen the screws as the one you heated will bend. This was told to me by A.P.A. when I asked them how to get blue loctited screws from the base. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the info- i will probably need it some day. I would think you would have to get the allen wrench red hot to get enough heat down through the screw to the threads?
 
Yes, You will have to get the wrench red hot. Thats why you use another one to break them loose with. I heated it up and tried to use it and bent the wrench real easy. That's what A.P.A. told me to do and it works. Luck to You
 
Is there a list online of proper torque inch/lbs for scope bases and mounts? Or is it the same for all? Sorry to hijack the tread a little.
 
yotekiller thanks for the tip on heating an allen wrench. like farmer i have the same dnz mount and used blue loctite for the base screws and i plan to change it soon because i have a 1in mount and am goin to a 30mm scope. so thank you very much to all who have posted thread and comments as this will save me money.
 
I have the mount on my 243 Tikka. No locktite anywhere been on for about 5 years. Rides around everyday in truck and or tractor or 4 wheeler. Has never came loose.
 
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