223 Reloads getting stuck in chamber

One shot Paul

New member
I just finished my first batch of reloads for my AR-15 -223. The upper is an new Armalite with 100 to 150 rounds down the tube. This is what is happening. I went out coyote hunting, loaded mag and feed one in the chamber. Finished stand and did not fire the gun. Went to take bullet out of chamber and I have to pull with a lot of force to get the round out. Around the shoulder of the case is a couple dents and a scratch. These are once fired 5.56 brass with hornady 55 GR Vmax bullets. I took the gun to local gunsmith, he disassembled the gun and said nothing is wrong with the gun. He took one of my reloads and measured the round and said the overall length is within specs. He said my brass is military brass and I should stick with head stamped 223 brass. I bought a new box of hornady superformance factory loads and they go thru the gun with no problems. I have shot some of my reloads thru the gun but when I manually unload an unfired round it comes out extremely hard. My son has a Remington R-15 he can shoot my reloads with no problems. His gun has about 2500 rounds thru it. Could this be a sizing die issue? I have never reloaded before this batch of 200 rounds. I set the die according to the instructions.
 
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If they function fine in your son's R-15, then I would think it is more your chamber being on the "short" end of tolerance. Assuming your die is set to full length resize your case.

We used to make up a dummy round, and "smoke" it with a candle. Then chamber the round. Once extracted you can readily see the shiny spots on the case, which are tight spots. you can also use a sharpie, and color a whole, sized case, and chamber it. It does the same thing. This will show you where it is tight on the case, and you can correct as needed.

You will likely find the problem on the shoulder, or the base. Sometimes a Small Base die is needed instead of a Full Length die on range fired brass.

Did your smith check the head space?
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Are you setting your sizing die to cam over and bump the shoulder back? If not then you need to do so. I use nothing but military brass in several .223s and it is very good brass. Your problem is not the brass, you have 2 of the following problems.

A. An ignorant Gunsmith
B. Improperly set up dies.
C. Out of spec chamber, (possible but not likely)
D. Out of spec dies, (highly unlikely)

Use the little google search function at the top of this page and search camming over and you will find plenty of info.

Other than being hard to extract unfired rounds, does the rifle function properly?

Good Luck

Ricky
 
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I full length resize then neck resize to makes sure the shoulder is bumped back. I then crimp the neck after seating the bullet. I have an Armalite upper that also stuck a few rounds. I started using the neck and crimp dies and the problem went away. I think the problem was/is the thicker neck on the 5.56 brass. kwg
 
This is a sizing issue as Rick noted above. Auto weapons are notorious for sticking rounds that are not resized properly. If you are full length resizing them and they are still sticking then you need to purchase a small base sizing die..
 
I woild not waist the money on small dased dies unless you are sure that you need them. I would screw the die in 1/4-1/2 turn and be done with it. You afe not bumping the shoulder back enough. Alot easier to try this then to go out and spend money on new dies that are not needed MOST OF THE TIME.
 
I've never used a SB die for any of the four .223/5.56 AR's that I've loaded for.

I have however had exactly the problems that your describing and found that I wasn't bumping the shoulder enough.

I adjusted my die and fixed the problem. Now I use a comparator to make sure I have my dies set up right.

I just read an article over on "Accurate Shooter.com" where they found a FL RCBS die that was made incorrectly and it was actually causing the body length to increase, no matter how they adjusted it.

However, I'm betting that's not your situation, try what deaddogwalkin suggested and let us know
 
Before you buy a small base die, screw your resizeing die down another 1/8-1/4 turn. A bit more than just bumping. If the handle won't go the full stroke, your a tad too far down. I sometimes also see problems when people try to use brand X dies with a brand Y shell holder.
 
My lee dies would not resize my base enough for the AR even when cranked all the way down. I sent them back to Lee and they Took them down to min spec. Get your self a JP case gauge. They are pricey, but you'll never be guessing again.
 
You might also try looking closely right where the shoulder turns to the body to be sure there isn't any swelling. With Lee dies if the seater die is set to seat and crimp, it can bulge or buckle the shoulder if out of adjustment. That might not be the problem but it does happen at times. There is no need to crimp, so be sure to set the seater die so that it seats and doesn't try to crimp. Won't cost you anything to check.
 
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Having a small base die is just a fact of life if you reload unknown cases.

Some chambers are on the outside edge of spec. When a case is fired in that chamber, it fire forms to that chamber. Because of the "spring" that is the nature of brass, FL dies don't always push the brass back far enough.[with the spring effect]

In these cases, a Small Base die is needed to push the brass back far enough to function proper. This only needs to be done once. Then FL dies will be fine with your rifle.

I have a SB die in 30-06 that I use for everything from a 22-250 to a 270 win [I don't own a 30-06]. If a case that I pick up somewhere, does not chamber after FL sizing, I simply run it through the SB die one time and all is normal.

For smaller stuff, I have a Redding die in 222 Rem Mag that sizes the bases small enough on 222 Rem, and 223 Rem. JMO2
 
Since you own an Armalite you have a Wylde chamber your gunsmith is right shoot 223rem's in it.

You can also call Armalite.
 
Screw your die in just a bit. If you can't screw it in any more, because you are already at the top of the stroke, then grind a little (.002 or so) off the shell holder. That will allow you to shove the ctg up that much. Bet it will take care of the problem. Done it myself a couple of times. Make sure the seater die doesn't crimp. That business about using only commerical brass is a old wives tale. I use both commerical and LC (used military) in my .223 bolt and AR. No problems.

Tom
 
Screw your die in another 1/8th of a turn to set the shoulder back, you can use either .223 or 5.56mm brass.
 
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Might I suggest you try this and check out the difference in the finished rounds. Take a box of factory ammo that WILL shoot in your AR. Then measure the shoulders and the OAL of another finished cartridge in that box and COMPARE those measurements to your unfired reloads. It is obvious the chambers in your Armalite and your son's rifles are different. Just gotta find the happy median that will work in both.
 
I don't think this has been asked, but did you trim the brass? I'm a rookie but if your rifle has a shallow throat it could be sticking in the lands and causing a dangerous pressure situation? Correct me if I'm wrong I welcome it at this point.
 
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