Can I get rid of some of my trigger creep.

12Ring

12Ring

New member
I recently did the 15 minute trigger job modification on my trigger. The one where you bend the trigger spring and cut the hammer spring. Before I did it, my trigger was really choppy and heavy heavy.

After the trigger modification, it is much smoother and has a much lighter pull. The only thing is I wish it had less creep. The pull is light and smooth but I just seem to be squeezing for ever.

Is there anything I can do to reduce the amount of creep?

I really don't know what type of trigger it is. It is probably just a cheap stock trigger.

Thanks for any help.
 
What brand is your lower?

Some can be honed, some are just surface hardened and cannot.

I know Armalite can, and the directions are on their website in their tech. notes. This is the same hammer as their National Match trigger, it's just not tuned.
 
There are a couple of cheap options that can help tremendously. You can get a set screw the same size and threads as the grip screw and screw it in till it contacts the bottom of the trigger assembly. This will raise the trigger assembly from the back and reduce trigger creep. It takes some playing to get it right, and it must be lock tighted into place to assure it never moves. You must be sure you have enough Sear engagement to be safe.
The second, a better but semi permanent option is to put a tiny weld on the bottom of the trigger at the same point the set screw would contact it. You then grind it off a little at a time till you have the trigger pull short enough to be creep free but long enough to allow the safety to engage and adequate seer engagement. The trigger in either case is raised by 30-50 thousandths.


I have done both options several times and they can make a cheap Milspec trigger very usable for little cost. The weld method is part of what Bill Springfield does to triggers.

Ricky
 
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I have the set screw option on mine, plus I put a bead of weld on it. I also honed the engagement surfaces and then heat treated them again afterwards. My trigger is now better than the stock triggers on anyone in my family's deer rifles. I can't say whether or not is as good as any of the match triggers because I've never felt one.
 
Originally Posted By: ninehorsesWhat brand is your lower?

.

It is a DPMS lower. I think I'm am going to try the set screw idea first. If I don't like the feel of that, then I will try the bead weld on it.

As for the set screw idea, I assume I have to cut the set screw to a length that is close and then grind a little at a time until I get the right length? Does that sound about right?
 
one thing about fixing the creep like that, you can only fix it so far, before you just force the trigger up against the safety. depending on your lowers geometry that could be enough or give you nothing. More then likely it will be in between somewhere. What ever you do dont modify your safety or your sear engagement angles, hights or surfaces. those sorts of things should be left to a gunsmith.

There are a number of better then standard milspec options for aftermarket triggers in the sub $100 price range, jard and RRA are the 2 that come to mind.
 
No, you do not grind the set screw, You simply screw it in and out for adjustment. When you get a feel for where it should be, You pull it out and put on some locktite and re adjust. On one lower I did have to take a little off the Grip screw as it was too long.

Here try this explanation.

Trigger Job
 
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With all of my AR builds, what I found is the phosphate coating on the hammer is the problem. Get your FINE stone out, and polish(NOT FILE) the phosphate off of the hammer.
 
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