Chamfer and debur new brass before fl sizing?

skidooracer_99

New member
i would like to hear some oppinions on the idea of chamfer and deburring the mouths of new brass before being run through the fl sizer? i came across a bag of win brass for 7mm rem mag that had pretty dinged up mouths. they were pretty stiff feeding up into the fl sizer die over the expander ball. then i was thinkin maybe chamfering and deburring the mouths first would help sizing initially, but then again it woundnt chanfer the dinged mouth evenly. what do you guys think would be better for concentricity... forcing those flawed and dinged mouths up through the expander, size them down, then expanded again, or if the case had a chanfer on it first. may be a silly question but its just another step that i thought of tonight that i havent heard anyone doing first. i would still hafto chamfer and deburr again after trimming so that would get quite repetative.
 
I lube the inside of the case neck with Imperial sizing wax before I run new brass in the die.
If it's got a really bad ding I smooth it out with needle nose pliers enough to be sure it'll accept the expander ball.
I do a quick dunk in Imperial dry lube whenever I size fired brass.
 
I FL then chamfer, dinged necks are easy to run up the die, if the necks are badly dinged I will run needle nose plier in the mouth and round it then run it in the FL die.
 
Full length resize, trim, chamfer and deburr in that order and then proceed with the rest of the operations.
 
Originally Posted By: GCFull length resize, trim, chamfer and deburr in that order and then proceed with the rest of the operations.

+1

the chamfer actually helps "guide the bullet" into the neck and aid in gettting it started smoothly into the neck.

Having pulled a lot of rounds on ammo, I saw early on that just a simple deburr on some occasions was an aid in scarring a bullet. After playing around with different de burring methods for a while, I learned that a HEAVY chamfer on the case mouth was good insurance in the bullet getting started with out heavy scarring.
 
I size first, then trim if needed.. If you chamfer first and then need to trim you end up chamfering twice..
 
Originally Posted By: ackleymanOriginally Posted By: GCFull length resize, trim, chamfer and deburr in that order and then proceed with the rest of the operations.

+1

the chamfer actually helps "guide the bullet" into the neck and aid in getting it started smoothly into the neck.

Having pulled a lot of rounds on ammo, I saw early on that just a simple deburr on some occasions was an aid in scarring a bullet. After playing around with different de-burring methods for a while, I learned that a HEAVY chamfer on the case mouth was good insurance in the bullet getting started with out heavy scarring.

I don't "chamfer" cases no mo' !!!

Many years ago (shortly after the Civil War
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), I had reason to pull down a bunch of rounds that were loaded with a heavy hand
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Up to that point, I had always chamfered the case mouths, cuz that was how I was taught.

When I saw the pulled bullets, I was appalled since these were match bullets, loaded for a match rifle
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. The bullet bodies were heavily scored... no, they were wrecked!!

At that point, I decided there must be another (better) way.

Then it dawned on my somewhat Rum soaked brain that factory cases are NOT chamfered, and factory bullets are not scored. Hmmmmmmmmm ??

After much asking around, I discovered one of the best kept secrets in handloading... the Lyman "M" die. This die is designed for cast lead bullet loaders, to put a flair on the mouth of the cases, so the bullet would NOT get damaged... and it was adjustable for a lot of flair, or a microscopic amount.

From that point on, I never chamfered a case again. (I don't "de-burr" either).

I pull the expander button out of my sizing die, so the neck is sized, but NOT expanded. This makes sizing MUCH more easy. Then I run the case through the "M" die, which is set up for the tiniest flair (so little that you can barely see it). Then the case is ready to seat a bullet. The flair is so small that it is not necessary to push it back with a taper die - I just leave it there. If the flair is not wanted, than it is easy to remove with a tiny touch with a taper crimper.

Held side by side, you cannot tell which is my hand load, and which is a factory load... it is that good. Plus the bullets are never damaged in the process, and if you have to pull them, they look like new.


Meow
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Originally Posted By: ackleymanDang Cat, Last time I used a M die was 1969...forgot all about that type die.

Most people have... I'm just a whole bunch older (about 917 years) than you
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Dillon copied the "M" die in their progressive presses, and all the commercial loading machines I have used have the equivalent of an "M" die somewhere in the system.

It's funny, Weaver invented the cross slot base about 900 years ago, and nobody gave a crap - now, everyone is making a fortune on the Weaver cross slot base (and the Picatinny version), EXCEPT Weaver
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Same with the "M" die - Lyman invented it, and now others are using the concept for jacked bullets, and Lyman still hasn't caught on with the changes, and modified their advertizing or catalogue - too badd for Lyman!

Meow
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