Bluetickstyle
New member
I'm fixing to do some freeze branding on my dogs (too many people out there riding the rds just to snatch up a dog to make a buck) so I'm looking for info and the technicalities of the art of freeze branding thanks
Freeze Branding
- Thread starter Bluetickstyle
- Start date
FullCryHounds
New member
I believe Duane posted a 'how to' some time back about this. Freeze branding is probably the best first deterent to theft but I would also spend the $15-25 dollars and get your dog micro chipped. If the dog does ever get checked by a vet or animal control for a chip even years after it was stolen, then you would be the first one to get a call.
Coyotejunki
Well-known member
I'm not enthused about the "Chip". After talking with my Vet, it was mentioned that a lot of Vet's don't have the equipment to check them.
But you may get your dog back, if it is chipped. May work out for you.
But you may get your dog back, if it is chipped. May work out for you.
Devin69
New member
Pretty easy. Get you a freeze brand http://www.lhbrandingirons.com/pg/freeze.asp and this is off of L&H web site
Operating Instruction for L&H Freeze Branders
Freeze branding is a technique in which a supercold branding iron, properly applied to the animals
hide, kills the color pigment producing cells. The result is that white or colorless hair instead of
colored hair, grow at the brand site. Freeze branding is effective on both cattle and horses along
with dogs. One advantage of freeze branding is that it produces a readable brand at any time of
the year.
Skin Anatomy
The skin of the animal contains millions of hairs which make
up the animals coat. Figure 1 is an enlarges, simplified
drawing of one hair shaft with its color (pigment) producing
follicle (CF) and its growth follicle (GF), both shown below
the skin.
Under normal circumstances hair grows as a clear shaft
(like a clear straw) from the GF. On colored animals,
pigment (black, brown, red, yellow etc.) is added from the
CF below the skin to the clear hairshaft, which gives the
hair its color.
When the intensely cold iron used in freeze branding is placed on the skin for the correct time and
at the correct pressure, the cold temperatures destroys the CF's at the brand site so they no
longer can produce pigment; however, the hair still continues to grow for the GF's. The result is
that hair at the brand site contains no pigment and appears white. This is the desired result-a
uniform, white brand. If the iron is pressed to the skin for a shorter period of time and/or with less
pressure that required, some hairs grow in colored and some hairs grow in white, so the brand has
a streaked appearance. If the iron is held on a longer period of time, the cold destroys the GF's as
well, so that no hair grows at all. On light colored animals the bald is desirable because the dark
skin with no hair shows up better that a white brand.
Recommended Materials and Equipment
· Holding chute or some other positive device to keep the animal from moving
· Container large enough so the irons can stand upright when the heads are submerged in
the coolant
· Coolant-Dry Ice and Alcohol or Liquid Nitrogen
· Electric clipper (surgical blade preferred)
· Grooming brush for cleaning the brand site
· Gloves
· Stopwatch
· Squirt bottle
· L&H Brass Freeze Branding Irons
· 99.9% alcohol (lower percentages contain water which can cause an ice layer to form
during branding and decrease the penetration of the cold through the skin
Good luck, Devin
Operating Instruction for L&H Freeze Branders
Freeze branding is a technique in which a supercold branding iron, properly applied to the animals
hide, kills the color pigment producing cells. The result is that white or colorless hair instead of
colored hair, grow at the brand site. Freeze branding is effective on both cattle and horses along
with dogs. One advantage of freeze branding is that it produces a readable brand at any time of
the year.
Skin Anatomy
The skin of the animal contains millions of hairs which make
up the animals coat. Figure 1 is an enlarges, simplified
drawing of one hair shaft with its color (pigment) producing
follicle (CF) and its growth follicle (GF), both shown below
the skin.
Under normal circumstances hair grows as a clear shaft
(like a clear straw) from the GF. On colored animals,
pigment (black, brown, red, yellow etc.) is added from the
CF below the skin to the clear hairshaft, which gives the
hair its color.
When the intensely cold iron used in freeze branding is placed on the skin for the correct time and
at the correct pressure, the cold temperatures destroys the CF's at the brand site so they no
longer can produce pigment; however, the hair still continues to grow for the GF's. The result is
that hair at the brand site contains no pigment and appears white. This is the desired result-a
uniform, white brand. If the iron is pressed to the skin for a shorter period of time and/or with less
pressure that required, some hairs grow in colored and some hairs grow in white, so the brand has
a streaked appearance. If the iron is held on a longer period of time, the cold destroys the GF's as
well, so that no hair grows at all. On light colored animals the bald is desirable because the dark
skin with no hair shows up better that a white brand.
Recommended Materials and Equipment
· Holding chute or some other positive device to keep the animal from moving
· Container large enough so the irons can stand upright when the heads are submerged in
the coolant
· Coolant-Dry Ice and Alcohol or Liquid Nitrogen
· Electric clipper (surgical blade preferred)
· Grooming brush for cleaning the brand site
· Gloves
· Stopwatch
· Squirt bottle
· L&H Brass Freeze Branding Irons
· 99.9% alcohol (lower percentages contain water which can cause an ice layer to form
during branding and decrease the penetration of the cold through the skin
Good luck, Devin
Super White Hunter
New member
Does a brand on the dog need to be registered?
cowpastureplinker
New member
Devin, you oughta take some pics and post a tutorial.
Rocky1
New member
http://www.lhbrandingirons.com/Freeze/Instructions.html
Time chart about half way down the page. I'm guessing a dog's hide would be comparable to a colt. Note at the bottom of the chart that it states the darker the hide the less time it takes.
Time chart about half way down the page. I'm guessing a dog's hide would be comparable to a colt. Note at the bottom of the chart that it states the darker the hide the less time it takes.
TonyTebbe
New member
http://www.coondawgs.com/freezebrand.html
Here are some really good instructions, with pictures. This gentleman suggest 25-35 seconds for shaved hips or ribs, and 25-45 seconds for ears, based on thickness.
Tony
Here are some really good instructions, with pictures. This gentleman suggest 25-35 seconds for shaved hips or ribs, and 25-45 seconds for ears, based on thickness.
Tony
Devin69
New member
I will take some picture and put them up for you guys.
I didn't get a chance to do it today. Went out and caught a lion.
CK I do it for about 10 seconds if they are a softer hide I will do about 7 seconds. But my brand is thick and the thicker the brand the less you have to hold it on.
I didn't get a chance to do it today. Went out and caught a lion.
CK I do it for about 10 seconds if they are a softer hide I will do about 7 seconds. But my brand is thick and the thicker the brand the less you have to hold it on.
gonzaga
New member
That is a wealth of information guys. That was a nice write up Devin, dang good and pretty darn thorough. I wish that I had my welder hooked up so that I could make my own brand, were you guys able to buy them or just make your own? Do they need to be brass?, or what works best in your guy's opinions. I want to learn from dog men not books.
Thanks guys
Thanks guys