Cleaning an extra dirty barrel

Bartrak

New member
I have a Savage Predator 22-250 that I am having a hard time cleaning the barrel. I used Hoppe's 9 to remove fouling and Butch's Bore Shine for the copper but am still getting blue and black patches. I have used a brush several time also. I need advice on what to try next. Thanks !!!
 
I have a Savage 12BVSS the copper fouls too. I use a few jags of carbon remover first (upper cylinder cleaner is great). Then jag dry. Then I use Wipeout. Let it sit for 12 hours and put a bit more in the barrel until fresh white foam comes out and let it sit again for another 12 hours. Keep doing that until the old stuff coming out is neither blue for copper or brown for carbon.

No brushes or rods to damage the bore and it does get it clean - real clean. Make sure you oil the bore afterwards to prevent rust. And make sure you remove teh oil beore firing. The oil can biuld up in front of a fired projectile and cause barrel bulging.
 
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On a barrel that has "heavy copper fouling" I use Montana EX treme copper remover. It's real "nasty" stuff,so follow the inst. on the bottle! Also use a nylon brush,as using a bronze brush will allways give you a false result, (blue patch) when you clean the bore. Another one is Sweet's 7.62 Copper remover. Both will remove copper fouling,but can't be left in the bore,longer than the instructions say too! Allways use a good bore preservative (oil) after using either of these. I use Kroil,and you CAN leave it in the bore overnight,then a dry patch,or two and your ready to go! Ron PS. use a good carbon cleaner,first,then go after the copper fouling!
 
I do similar to the above but after using a application of Sweets and Kroil I run some J-B Non-Embedding Bore-Cleaning Compund through the barrel then Sweets again until the barrel comes clean. On a really fouled bore it will take some elbo grease to get it clean. J-B has fixed many a rifle that the owner thought that he needed a new barrel "Just don't shoot good anymore" -- J-B it!
 
Originally Posted By: rks1949On a barrel that has "heavy copper fouling" I use Montana EX treme copper remover. It's real "nasty" stuff,so follow the inst. on the bottle! Also use a nylon brush,as using a bronze brush will allways give you a false result, (blue patch) when you clean the bore. Another one is Sweet's 7.62 Copper remover. Both will remove copper fouling,but can't be left in the bore,longer than the instructions say too! Allways use a good bore preservative (oil) after using either of these. I use Kroil,and you CAN leave it in the bore overnight,then a dry patch,or two and your ready to go! Ron PS. use a good carbon cleaner,first,then go after the copper fouling!

Pretty good advice right there.
I use Sweets, but MT Extreme or Barns CR10 also work. I'm thinking amonia's amonia.

Wipeout's good too. As stated above, leave it overnight for best results.


FWIW,,, most Savages mine copper like it's their job. Doesn't seem to hurt the accuracy, but it can sure be frustrating.
Another reason I don't own any.

For normal maintanence on "normal" barrels, my old standby is a 50/50 mixture of Kroil and either Shooters Choice or Butches.

Luck
 
Get some of the Birchwood Casey foaming gel. Fill the barrel up with the gel, and let set overnight. Push the gel out from the breech with a brush. Then use Hoppes. Your gun will be 100% clean and clear!
 
Originally Posted By: BartrakI have a Savage Predator 22-250 that I am having a hard time cleaning the barrel. I used Hoppe's 9 to remove fouling and Butch's Bore Shine for the copper but am still getting blue and black patches. I have used a brush several time also. I need advice on what to try next. Thanks !!!

Your not the only frustrated savage owner, I just bought a savage 11 2 weeks ago and have put around a 100 patches through the barrel using Hoppe's 9, i also used a brass brush a few times, and my patches still come out dirty.
 
Sometimes fouling can be in layers. Carbon, copper, carbon, etc...

Don't be afraid to use a bronze brush, and let the chemicals sit and do some of the work.

Savages bores are rough. They aren't like hand lapped Lilja's or Shilens. But the brightside is you can buy the whole rifle (cheaper ones) for about the price of a premium barrel, and they generally do shoot well.
 
I use wipe out foaming bore cleaner and sometimes use the accelerator if I am in a hurry. Just fill the barrel with the foam and let it sit with the muzzle slightly down overnight. In the morning patch it out and it's good. Has always worked very well for me on even the most stubborn dirty rifles.
 
I've used Outers Foaming Bore Cleaner on old military surplus rifles, as well as my new bores and it cleans them like new mirrors... The really bad ones may take a couple of soakings overnight, but when clean, patch use is minimal...
 
Originally Posted By: OldTurtleI've used Outers Foaming Bore Cleaner on old military surplus rifles, as well as my new bores and it cleans them like new mirrors... The really bad ones may take a couple of soakings overnight, but when clean, patch use is minimal... Good stuff right there.
 
Wipe Out Foam works great. Just follow the directions on he can.It took 4 treatments on a .308 that I tired everything on, and was ready to replace the barrel. It is amazing all the crap that comes out even after a good cleaning with the standard methods.
Frank
 
The savage rifles being button rifled will likely have some rough tooling marks on them in a new rifle a proper break-in procedure will help insure there is less fouling. Also fire lapping after you get it clean, with Superior shooting systems "Final Finish", which is bullets coted with a lapping compound that gets progressively finer as you go. I have also heard with button rifled barrels that when new, take a bore snake and coat in a chrome polish such as flitz(which has a fine abrasive in it) and run the bore snake thru, then a patch, more flitz bore snake, and patch. Guys do this procedure from twenty to 30 times, it cuts down on break-in peroid and does a pretty good job of smoothing out tool marks.
 
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