was just wondering what other people were using for a kill pole set up? i use around 4 feet of 1/2" rebar with #9 wire welded to it for snare support and a 48" snare. having some problems with coyotes bending the rebar. thanks in advance for the input. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
how do you guys set up your kill poles??
- Thread starter cwhain
- Start date
Rich Cronk
New member
cwhain,
I have used a few kill poles in weed patches and CRP fields. I made mine from 5/8" re-rod, 4' long. About 4" down from top of the pole, I welded a link from old tire chains. I would drive the pole into the ground, usually leaving 30" or so of the pole sticking up above ground. My five foot snares had those one inch diameter loops on the end. What I would do is run end of cable through chain link, pull it up and over the top of kill pole. Very quick way to attach snare to pole. In soft ground I would weld a wing on bottom of pole to keep it from twisting around and around when coyote tried to wrap up.
I have used a few kill poles in weed patches and CRP fields. I made mine from 5/8" re-rod, 4' long. About 4" down from top of the pole, I welded a link from old tire chains. I would drive the pole into the ground, usually leaving 30" or so of the pole sticking up above ground. My five foot snares had those one inch diameter loops on the end. What I would do is run end of cable through chain link, pull it up and over the top of kill pole. Very quick way to attach snare to pole. In soft ground I would weld a wing on bottom of pole to keep it from twisting around and around when coyote tried to wrap up.
Tactical .20
New member
I also tried the kill poles in 1/2 inch. Then they recommended the 5/8th inch. I found with the deer stop that it did not work as well. They say the blade on the side to stop the spin works.
I decided to go back to my old method of anchor and support. The poles are very heavy if you have a lot of them. I use the choke spring and they are usually dead before the grass is damaged. It seemed to me that having the cable at eye level(using the kill pole) may have given them the incentive to chew it. I don't have that problem with this method, now.T.20
I decided to go back to my old method of anchor and support. The poles are very heavy if you have a lot of them. I use the choke spring and they are usually dead before the grass is damaged. It seemed to me that having the cable at eye level(using the kill pole) may have given them the incentive to chew it. I don't have that problem with this method, now.T.20
Tactical .20
New member
I use a 24" 1/2 inch rebar for a stake and I take a #9 wiremake a loop and wrap it up halfway or a third of the way up. This leaves a loop on the bottom. I put a slim stiff steel rod (with a notch cut out on the end) for a pusher in to the end of the oblong loop. I push the wire into the ground. The steel rod has a t on the top, if the ground is too hard or frozen I use my hammer to set the wire firmly into the ground.
I have seen systems with the cable and the support wire together on the ground, attached together with the stake. I found that it interfered with the action of the snare when an animal was caught.
With a five foot or ten foot snare I have had good luck using stakes. I won't use a steel stake for traps.
When you use a system that is separate from the stake you can slide the snared animal out of sight or away from the trail. I used this method many times while snaring road ditches.
Now, with the choke spring they may not need to be hidden, and they usually don't destroy the location. I just wish we had some fox to trap, snare or hunt again.T.20
I have seen systems with the cable and the support wire together on the ground, attached together with the stake. I found that it interfered with the action of the snare when an animal was caught.
With a five foot or ten foot snare I have had good luck using stakes. I won't use a steel stake for traps.
When you use a system that is separate from the stake you can slide the snared animal out of sight or away from the trail. I used this method many times while snaring road ditches.
Now, with the choke spring they may not need to be hidden, and they usually don't destroy the location. I just wish we had some fox to trap, snare or hunt again.T.20
cwhain
found a way that works for me.RAM POWER SNARES.
Have not used kill stakes in 5 years.
www.ramconnection.com ( yahoo canada)
they do not look like much.but have put up lots of fur for me
found a way that works for me.RAM POWER SNARES.
Have not used kill stakes in 5 years.
www.ramconnection.com ( yahoo canada)
they do not look like much.but have put up lots of fur for me
Tactical .20
New member
Ram snares are illegal where I live. I thought the whole country, but may not be correct.T.20
Tactical.20
to bad rams are illegall where you are!!!
in the yukon all snares need to have is a locking device.Here they consider the spring a lock device.
There a great tool.Have had very good luke using them on land for beaver. the mini ram works great on otter that are shy of body grip traps.
Last winter caught 2 wolverine in the ram. both died very humanly Thats saying somthing!!! those things are hard to choke.
Are they banned all over USA. and what is the reasoning?
to bad rams are illegall where you are!!!
in the yukon all snares need to have is a locking device.Here they consider the spring a lock device.
There a great tool.Have had very good luke using them on land for beaver. the mini ram works great on otter that are shy of body grip traps.
Last winter caught 2 wolverine in the ram. both died very humanly Thats saying somthing!!! those things are hard to choke.
Are they banned all over USA. and what is the reasoning?