How to build a Fur Tumbler (pictures)

R

River Runner

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These first few shots give you an overall view of what were dealing with here. The front legs of the frame (right side) I made two inches longer then the rear to keep the drum from walking off the rollers. As you can see I set a block under the rear afterwards because two inches was too much. You'll be able to get by with an inch difference, still keeping the drum on the rollers and get good grit circulation both.
I used 3/4 inch I.D. square tubing for my frame and layed it out to fit the width of my drum. Drums may vary so you'll need to adjust accordingly. I made my overall frame 12 inches wider then the drum and then moved the axles in 8 inches on each side to cradle the drum.
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Below is a top shot of the frame itself. Spacing of the bearing and frame cross members aren't real critical. I wanted three drive wheels on each side, and the frame just a few inches longer then the drum. So I spaced it out accordingly. If you can't get a drum with perfectly straight sides as I use, then you'll need to locate the roller wheels so that they will come in contact with the drum at all times. Tapered side drums, you may have to move the two end rollers inward on each side.
I used 1/2 inch cold roll for the axles and bushing style pillow bearings on each cross member of the frame to support the axles. If I could change anything, it would be to go with the roller type pillow bearings over the bushing style.
You'll notice another smaller shaft in the center of the frame to the left. This was going to be my idler pulley shaft incase I needed to gear it down for a slower rotation. I ended up not even needing it.
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Next is a close up of the pillow bearings and the roller wheels. I drilled through the shaft hole on the rollers and the drive axles, and then cotter pinned the rollers to the axle.
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Below is a end shot of the frame. I put a pulley on the end of each drive axle, opposite end of the motor, and put a belt out there to put power to both axles insync.
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In this next shot you'll notice a small black wheel towards the top of the photo, right above the idle shaft. I put that directly in the middle of the frame end and adjusted it to the right height so that the outter rim on the end of the drum rides against it at all times. Remember the legs for the frame are an inch shorter on one end then the other to keep the drum from walking off the rollers. The wheel holds the drum in place so it don't walk off the other way.
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The two shots below show the motor and pulley set up. The motor is mounted under the frame itself.
My motor has a 1/2 inch shaft that produces 1725 rpms at the shaft. I put a 3/4 inch pulley on that shaft, and decided to go with a 15 inch up on the drive axle. (The one directly above the motor in the photo) This worked out perfect giving me approx. 35 rotations per minute AT THE DRUM.
The pulley to the left in the first photo is on the idler shaft that we showed above, but wasn't needed. Behind the 15 pulley there, I used another 3/4 pulley on the same shaft which was going to be belted to the first 15 inch pulley and then back to reduce speed. But it was never needed.
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Next is the drum. You'll need a drum with a removable lid like in the photo below. It's tough to see here but this lid has a 2inch lip that actually fits inside the drum itself, and that lines up the two rims, the one on the lid and the one on the drum.
The cam lever locking band allows both rims to fit into it, locking the drum lid in place.
T-lid.jpg

The shot below shows how I installed baffles in my drum. Baffles help lift the hide/s and the grit to prevent them from sliding and riding the bottom all the time because of the slow rotation.
These were 1x4's simply caulked on one edge, and screwed through the sides of the drum.
T-bffles.jpg
 
Tumbling furs is a key part of the tanning process, howler.
There's a few members on the board doing their own tanning and asked for the information.
 
Your falling behind Dawgkilla, er uh I mean...welcome to the Trapping & Fur handling forum /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

There's half a dozen active topics going on about it right now.
Tumbling cleans the fur, breaks the hide, finishes the leather, and can even be used for drying skins.
 
River Runner,

If I'm not mistaken you stated, in a previous post, that your barrel ribs were made out of 1 x 4's. Are you satisfied with the 1 x 4? I am at the point that I need to put in my ribs and am concerned that they may be a little light.

Also, Should I leave the corners of the ribs square or should I round them?????

Thanks,
Bow Hunter /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
I ACTUALLY had 1x4s initially, and went back and cut them down to 2 1/2 (1x3)

My opinion...(hey I get mine too /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif ) is that the 1x4's were actually narrowing down the inside diameter of the drum too much, forcing the hides to roll instead of tumble.

Dont worry about the edges, they will be rounded in no time.
 
River Runner,

Thanks for your timely reply. I am going out this morning to get the 1 x 3's for my tumbler.
I appreciate your help.

Bow Hunter
 
Hey River Runner, Thanks for re-posting your article on the construction of a Fur Tumbler, I just finished putting one together using your plans as a guide. I am wondering if you can give a description on how to properly use the tumbler and what types of sawdust/grits to use

Thanks Bishop.
 
Welcome to the board Bishop.
We pretty covered the saw dust in Bow Hunter's topic out there, titled Tumbling Media

You can use the tumbler for cleaning the fur when sawdust is added.
As the hides are drying if you tumble them for a while without sawdust it helps to break (soften) them.
 
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