Originally Posted By: cjgDegreasing is the most important step in any paint job, get yourself some acetone, wipe it down and don't touch it bare handed until you're finished painting. Make sure it's warm enough to paint, I bake stuff I've painted in the oven for awhile after painting, warming it up before you paint seems to help too.
Acetone in general is NOT a good preparation agent for paint.
Reagent grade acetone is relatively pure and is relatively expensive. The expense comes from the testing, hermetic container and purification to specification of the material. Sources of acetone that are somewhat less pure or difficult to purify might find their way to the paint or solvent market, but that is not always the case. In the case of paint stripper acetone, you are buying the bottom of the barrel stuff. It could be pure one day and contaminated the next. You "might" get a good job using acetone, but it's a crapshoot at best.
To prep steel (NOT galvanized or aluminum) properly a dedicated prep agent should be used. These are sold at most automotive stores in both a liquid form and aerosol. Used according to the directions, they are pretty reliable and give good results.
As for baking a shotgun barrel ... be aware that several parts on shotguns such as the ventilated rib are SOLDERED on. Granted ... that is a "form" of welding, but is usually done at much lower heat. While there is little danger of you getting these parts hot enough to cause a problem, the possibility does exist if subjected to extreme temps for long durations.
If I were going to dedicate a gun to some type of finish besides bluing or other commercial finishes like parkerizing, I would definitely spend the funds to get baked-on DuraCote in the aerosol cans and apply and cure according to the directions. I have done several AR lowers with it, and if done with care and patience it does a great job.
