help new reloaders

Two good bullets for the .223 are the 52 gr. Speer HP and 50 gr. Sierra Blitz.

Also good in 40 gr. is the Sierra 40gr. HP

All three are generally "pelt friendly".
 
Originally Posted By: WyocoyoterDevelope a routine and stick to it. Zero your scales periodically.

Buy your bullets, primers, brass & powder in bulk with the same lot numbers.

Good point on saving targets. I also have a target file with notes on each bull as to load, date, outside temp, rifle etc.

Keep your loading bench clean and well organized.

I will add to this. Do not zero your scales periodically. Zero your scales and calipers EVERY TIME YOU RELOAD OR MOVE YOUR SCALES FROM THEIR ORIGINAL POSITION AND CHECK THE ZERO FREQUENTLY.

Keep a routine down. Check the chambering in your rifle BEFORE you seat primers. Finally, IF YOU ARE POURING POWDER AND CHECK THE CASES YOU ARE SEATING THE BULLETS. FOLLOW THE ADVISE ON THIS FORUM. These guys know what they are talking about. I f you have question, stop and ask. Better safe than sorry.


RTLOF(TONY)
 
Reel Lost: All 22 center fire cartridges uses .224" BUT there are a couple that don't. The odd sizes are .222 that is used in 22 Jet shells that was a 357Mag necked to 22cal. used in S&W revolvers. The .223 bullets were for pre ww-2 22 Hornets that used 22 rimfire barrels. and the 22 Savage(303 Savage case necked down) uses .228 bullets( why? I don"t know.
 
Lots of good information here and some that should be taken with a grain of salt.

I pick up brass at the range, lots of high rollers who do not have time to reload use the clubs ranges. One can spot brass that is past it's experitation date with a bent paper clip and a good cleaning.

I do the powder drop and install the bullet and seat right then before going to a different case. No cases get a double charge that way. I'm old and slow and have all my body parts still.

Load well away in a scary part of the homestead from the family. You can sit on the couch for hours and hours twiddling your thumbs and no one says boo to you. Turn on the TV, Start reading,listening to the radio or start reloading then they (wife and kids) have all types of junk they need you for. If they can't see you all is well.

Keep plenty of loading blocks on hand so you can keep all cleaned and ready to go brass handy when you start reloading.

MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN AND INSPECT EVERY PIECE OF BRASS YOU ARE GOING TO RELOAD. Then inspect it again after you have reloaded it.


Want advice on the load for your 7 mm mag? Buy several reloading manual and do your own work up never trust a word of mouth or printed on a forum load. Typeing errors happen every day on the internet. Remember the thing in school to pass the message along to your neighbor and the end result was nothing like the orginal message?

Do you own work up and be safe.

I started reloading so long ago powder came in wax papper cans and kegs. Primers came in waxed cartons too. Herters was a bigger outdoor product supplier than Cabelas is today.

I keep records of my reloads and have Remington brass for the 243 and 308 that have been thru the press 20 plus times. Ya like me they are old and slow and accrite.

laugh.gif
Al
 
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Originally Posted By: sbranden
And on the primer thing, is a 6 1/2 way different from say a CCI 400 which people also pretty commonly use in 222 rem. ? Your point on "process" though is well taken 1stpitch.


DO NOT USE Remington 6 1/2 primers on anything near 222/223 size. They are specifically for lower pressure 22 calibers and you will get primer piercings and have to get a new firing pin among other problems. Read the note on the box and it will tell you what they are acceptable for.

PM if you want more info.
 
Originally Posted By: WyocoyoterDevelope a routine and stick to it. Zero your scales periodically.

Buy your bullets, primers, brass & powder in bulk with the same lot numbers.

Good point on saving targets. I also have a target file with notes on each bull as to load, date, outside temp, rifle etc.

Keep your loading bench clean and well organized.

Buying the same lots or powder, primers, bullets and brass is a great idea.

I agree with zeroing the scales, BUT buy some scale weights and use them to check to see that the scale weighs accurately then zero the scale every time. Only have one type of powder and primers on the bench at a time. I write the type of powder on my measure with a grease pencil. Never use anyones else's load data without checking it against several different books.

Develop a routine and stick to it don't, watch TV, have long conversations, talk on the phone when you're loading. If you're loading that's all you should be doing, stay focused and pay attention. Write ALL of your loads down and how they perform when you shoot them.
 
I've read a lot of these suggestions and most are very good.

The most important thing to do is to understand what you are doing. So this doesn't mean one time through your reloading instructions. Reloading is almost as much fun as shooting but far more important safety wise.

After you understand what each step does then make a your own instructions in order of what you need to follow.

The first step is to inspect your brass. Make sure its all the same caliber and not damaged.

Then determine if the brass needs to be cleaned. I don't tumble my brass very often. Something I learned in benchrest shooting is all those guys use a sizing die wax in place of oil or grease. Its much cleaner and faster, and does a much better job. In addition after you have sized them you take a clean rag; I use mechanics shop rages, wipe each one by turning the brass inside of the rag. You'll be ammazed at what this does, it cleans and polishes the brass almost like new. As for the inside its not that important. So now size the brass. You'll have to check the papers with your dies for setting up your dies.

Now inspect each piece under a good light to make sure you have no split necks or spilts in the body of the brass. Also check the case mouth and primer pocket.

Next step if you aren't using boat tails is to use a neck expander die so you can seat the bullet without smashing the lip of the brass.

Clean and inspect your primer pockets. I use carbide primer pocket uniformers. It keeps the primer pockets clean and very uniform. At some place down the road you will understand how important this is to not only safety but accuracy as well.


Next is to prime each case. The best way is to use a priming tool as they seat each primer to the best uniformity, but also will not crush the primer, plus its very fast. I keep my primers in a small metal box with a hinge on the lid, and make sure you mark the box for what kind of primer it is. When done priming take your fingue and feel the primer seating for any that don't feel right. Your fingers are able to deteck variations as small as .002"-.003"

Now you have your brass prepared, this is the most time consuming part of reloading. Next get your reloading book in front of you and make sure you are looking at the right caliber bullet and load data and the correct powder. As everyone else has said before always start out below the recommended load, but be sure to read all load instructions first as some bullet loads have also listed that you can not go below a certain charge. The reason is you can get secondary ignition which creates very high pressures, dangerous to you and your rifle.

Next is to charge the brass, maing sure again you are using correct load data, powder and following all instructions. Always , always look at the inside of your brass and make sure you have not doubled the charge in any of the brass, nor have you missed any. Well seasoned loaders have done this so don't take it lightly. You have to do the charge inspection under decent lights. I have nothing but flouresents in my loading shop, safer in my opion.

Now seat your bullet with caution making sure it is ligned up with the throat of the brass. Pay attention to OAL (overall length) start long and then slowly adjust your die to the die desired length. If I am loading for a brand new gun/caliber I will seat bullets in a few dumy rounds (no powder or primer) and then chamber them, making sure they feed right and the bolt cloases all the way without any unusual pressure. Then pull the loaded round out and check the OAL of your seated bullet/round. If its shorter then required, you may want to reconsider seating the bullets further into the case. Another big danger of having ammo too long is if you extract a loaded round you may leave the bullet in the throat of your gun and dump powder all over inside your chamber and trigger, makes a real mess. If this aver happens to you your first priorty is to remove the bullet in the rifle. If you fail to get the bullet out and fire anotheer behind it you will have whats called a squib round and an exploision, your gun will be damaged, maybe ruined, and you could lose your eyes or your life. I had a squib round when goose hunting a few years back and the barrel ruptured. I was lucky as my injuries were only moderate. This was shooting factory ammo by the way so not my fault.

A hand full of years ago a man shooting at a Nationly sanctioned benchrest shoot had a live round in his chamber after the official called for cease fire, so he had to remove the live round and left the ram rod in the barrrel to retrieve the bullet he knocked out and inspect the chamber for powder. He ended up leaving the rod in the barrrel and lost his life when he began firing again. Saftey and keeping your mind on what you are doing is always worth the time and effort.

From here your next objective before going any further is to make sure your OAL is correct and the bullets are seating properly.

After this you can continue to tweak your load for best accuracy, not fastest speed. Its a real advantage to have a chronometer, maybe borrow one from your buddy and invite him over and the both of you can work up loads.

Always record all data. Brass, powder, primers, OAL and of course accuracy. For testing accuracy always fire 3 shot groups. Measure your groups and record the size.

One more rather obvious precaution is no smoking. I know I may have forgotten something so compare this list to the others.
 
So, I don't think anyone came right out and said it, but would it be worthwhile at all to develop a load for the "average" weather conditions of each season if your going to be shooting the gun year round, or just load in warmer weather and remember to watch for signs of bad things happening?
 
Always inspect your cartridge before you seat bullets. If you skip a shell and fire it in your rifle with just the primer and no powder the bullet stick in the barrel, then you discharge another round and it hits that bullet bye bye barrel.
 
Originally Posted By: FutureFNWOim lookin to start reloading my 7mm Rem. Mag. any tips?


Nothing specific to that most fine cartridge ........... (we have four in this household!!)


Three 44s
 
The best way to describe handloading is to think of it as a "stand alone" hobby that is vertically integrated with shooting.

If you treat it as a step child .......... you are courting disaster.

The first thing before starting is to read several good manuals that give the basics of safe handloading.

These are well published and essential to give one a good start.

Second, you must KEEP READING!

I have been loading for 36 years and I STILL read EVERYTHING I can get my hands on to keep current and to KEEP LEARNING!

The day you stop learning ......... is the day you lay down and DIE!!!

Third, refrain from getting your loads from the internet!

......... it's akin to "hooking up" there .....

It's probably safer than to get some unseen persons load.

It's one thing to quote a published load and then look it up there ........ people make mistakes quoting something .... don't fall in that trap!

Take advice with the grain of salt (powder) ....... but verify!

Trust but Verify!!!

As many other's have said and repeated ..... DO NOT load with distractions! .... PERIOD!

Develop good habits! ...... charging cases are the PRIME area where one can get in a PECK of trouble.

When you start pouring powder ........ PAY ATTENTION and use a good method to stay safe!

If you are the sort of person that is out for instant gratification ........

............... you are not cut out for handloading!

If you want the BEST possible ammo for your weapons (on an affordable basis) and are willing to push your handloading to the forefront ...........

........... then handloading is for you!

Three 44s
 
I am new on this site and glad i have a friend that pointed me to this site. I wanted to point out a mechanic in this one street light town that i live in makes up some pretty crazy stories in which i will not ever use him if my vehicles brake down. He claims to mix powders and has been doing this for a long time, he also claims to shoot 1 mile consistently with his 30-06. MIXING POWDERS IS STUPID> I warned him but I am 20 years younger than him so what do i know.
 
Originally Posted By: YoteAddictionSo, I don't think anyone came right out and said it, but would it be worthwhile at all to develop a load for the "average" weather conditions of each season if your going to be shooting the gun year round, or just load in warmer weather and remember to watch for signs of bad things happening?

One load. Use a good powder that is temp resistant. This is figuring you haven't worked a load up at 0 degrees Went way over max load. Then shot the same load at 100 degrees. That would be foolish. Keep load at or below max you will not have any problems. You just might to get different dopes for the temp extremes.
 
Originally Posted By: starke co boyI am new on this site and glad i have a friend that pointed me to this site. I wanted to point out a mechanic in this one street light town that i live in makes up some pretty crazy stories in which i will not ever use him if my vehicles brake down. He claims to mix powders and has been doing this for a long time, he also claims to shoot 1 mile consistently with his 30-06. MIXING POWDERS IS STUPID> I warned him but I am 20 years younger than him so what do i know.

Kinda make you wonder how he got to be 20 years older! Lol. Just to bad a new comer to loading might go for his info.
 
Looking at this forum for the first time and haved learned a thing or two right away. I have just obtained an RCBS loading kit and am off to Cabelas for powder, primers,bullets, etc. I want to start with a varmint load for my 25-06. I have read the Speer manual that came with my kit and the bullets they offer. Am interested in a load that will hopefully be somewhat pelt-friendlier than others since my son-in-law traps and sells furs as a hobby. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
 
yotenewbie:

A good place to start for varmint loads in your 25/06 [yes, I have reloaded for one for 25 years] is Norma MRP powder and the the Hornady and Sierra 75-90 grain varmint bullets.

Work up to 57 grains of MRP and use the Hornady 75 gr. HP and the Sierra 90 gr. HPBT bullets.

MRP can often be difficult to find, but stellar results will be worth the search.

Also, IMR 4350, IMR 4064, IMR 4831, and Reloder 22 are good powders as well for the 100-120 weight bullets, and are not bad at all with the lighter weights.

Standard primers are fine; I have used mainly CCI primers over the years.

Good Luck!
 

Buckeyespecial

Thanks for info . I have a second home in Montana and have opportunities for longer shots on several ranches I can hunt. How would lighter grain bullets like 75-90 gr (I have seen a Hornady 60 grain)work with longer shots? My limited experience is with deer loads (Remington core-lokt 120 gr and Federal vital shok 115 gr)? Effective but too much damage for hide preservation.

Impressive number of posts by the way!
 
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