Stock and trigger mods for a Savage Edge

I'm not really grasping the mod above. So I'll throw some 'it seems to be' type things out there. I haven't pulled my trigger apart so no first hand knowledge.

But, if all you're doing is 1. removing the screw and 2. replacing the screw with a pin couldn't you

1. Leave the screw in place and use it to locate the spring instead of replacing it with a pin? Or is what I'm seeing as a screw in the trigger actually your pin and there's just a hole there with the factory trigger?
 
Your seeing the pin. There is just a hole there and that is why they wound the stock spring tighter at the bottom so it will stay centered. The only screw on the factory trigger is the safety screw. If it did have a second screw then all we would have to do is switch to a weaker spring. Once you tear yours apart you will see and you may come up with a different way to make yours work.

The reason I came up with this is
1. I had to be able to convert it back to stock if needed.
2. Cheap cost me under $1.00 with taxes.
3. I didn't want alter the factory trigger ie tapping or jb weld.
4. I did not want to cut the factory spring mostly because reason 1 and I had a to make sure it was ready for the next morning hunt. As we all know you can't put it back on once you cut it off.
 
Has anyone here acctually "polished" a Savage trigger? I have heard from a few different sources that doing so will cut through the hard surface and into the softer metal below acctually making the problem worse... ???
 
It would depend on what you consider to be 'polishing'. To some that means abrasives/sandpaper/stones and trying to hit the fine line before you get through the hardening. To others it means actual 'posish'. I've done a few case hardened parts using nothing more than cloth and buffing compound. Ended up with a nice smooth surface even with the factory gouges, didn't cut and so far no worries.

If compound by itself cuts through into the soft metal, that part wasn't long for this world anyway.
 
Excellent post DM--i'll have to try it on a SS 200--assuming the trigger's the same, and it's a problem when my buddy gets his 200...that is.
 
Originally Posted By: EasternYote...
Well if glueing the trigger gaurd shut has no effect on removing the triggered actin, then why design it to drop away as they did? Does it have something to do with the magazine seating, that if that point wears, then you can replace the trigger guard housing??? Always something to think about huh??
Got any pictures to share?
Thank You!
Eastern'


The edge is a pretty cool concept in saving $$$ for a budget rifle. One of the ways they saved money was using the same receiver and stock for long and short actions. So even short action calibers have a long bolt pull.

The ONLY thing that makes the short/long difference is the magazine well, and the ONLY thing that's different from the long/short magazine well is the trigger guard which defines the well itself. They have 2 different sized trigger guards and drop in the appropriate one for the caliber.


Brought this up as I'm working my trigger in the next day or so and hit the thread for a summary, saw the ? hadn't been answered yet
smile.gif
 
I followed Dm's instructions for the trigger, worked well. I did some dremel/buffing compound polishing at the same time just so I'd feel like I did something. Total time is about 10 minutes if I had the parts in front of me. I actually spent 2 days along with about $10 total. Most of that was just picking up different springs until I found one I was happy with. I picked up 3 or 4 pins and 3 or 4 springs on the 1st day before I actually pulled it apart and then went back for weaker springs day 2.

But in the actual rifle, very quick and about $1.60 going from 6lbs to 3.5lbs according to my fish scale.
 
The trigger spring on mine went into a threaded hole.
Checks out at 10-24 UNC.

Used a setscrew at first, threaded smaller spring onto a couple of prjecting threads and clipped coils to fair trigger pull (this an aftermarket spring of same coil diameter for full length).

Hated the overtravel so yanked that and went with larger dia. spring yet, that slides over a 10-24 screw freely.

Messed with adjusting a longer screw, got all overtravel out, but then the sear would drag farther up the trigger, when you'd push the cocking indicator to remove the bolt. Could have clearanced the trigger pc as it's not important back there, but decided to try a button head screw of stock length....that looked roughly to be as long as the test screw suggested.

It was just a shade shorter
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Overtravel is just a smidge now. Usable.

Here's a blow up:

538cc556b3.jpg
 
Thank you all for this thread. It made it easy, and made me feel confident to lesson the trigger pull on my .270 Edge to about 3.5 pounds. Now I will probably do the same on my .223 as well.
 
Hi DM...I just wanted to thank you for posting this article. It is a beautiful and simple mod. I tried out my new Savage AXIS for the first time today. At first I thought I could live with the heavy trigger because it was very crisp, until I got it on a benchrest...then I knew I had to do this mod...I used a #8 spring from Ace hardware. Mounted the roll pin per your instructions, and it looks like a factory installation. The safety works perfectly, and the Savage Accutrigger couldn't produce a sweeter pull. I am guessing that I have about 2.75 lbs. now, and beautifully crisp. Savage has managed to keep the best parts of the 110 in the AXIS, and with your mod, the AXIS may have the best of both worlds...

Thanks again
 
Stupid question here: Is the Edge trigger the same as a Stevens 200? I just picked up one for 179.00 and the trigger leaves alot to be desired. This looks to be a pretty straight forward modification and with the pics you guys provided, I think if the triggers are the assame I might have a go at it. Thanks in advance.

Trashcan
DCC
 
You can lighten the steven with a flathead screwdriver, even lighter with a wire change. I've got mine down to about 3 lbs.
 
Cock it, remove safety, slam the living [beeep] out of it on concrete. Repeat at different angles.

I tend to be a bit hard on whatever I work on, so far nothing has been worse for the wear and with the abuse I put them through I don't have a lot of worries when I'm in the field.
 
Originally Posted By: NdIndyCock it, remove safety, slam the living [beeep] out of it on concrete. Repeat at different angles.

I tend to be a bit hard on whatever I work on, so far nothing has been worse for the wear and with the abuse I put them through I don't have a lot of worries when I'm in the field.


Of course make sure it's unloaded first! But yeah that's pretty much what you do. Slam the butt hard on the ground more then once almost like your beating a red headed step child! Your wanting to make sure the trigger won't trip if the rifle is dropped or bumped. Pretty much prove to yourself that no matter happens to the rifle a round won't go off unless the trigger is pulled.
 
Originally Posted By: quiksetThe safety works perfectly, and the Savage Accutrigger couldn't produce a sweeter pull.

Agreed, Just got my first accu-trigger gun and I'm not seeing much difference between the modified Edge trigger and the accu-trigger.

Edit: I know we can adjust the accu-trigger for different weight, but smoothness, pull, and take up on my 2 guns are virtually the same now.
 
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Nuke and DM,

This is my first attempt at blogging but was really thankful for your info so I signed up. First time for everything. I combined what you guys did... used a 10-24 threaded screw, cut it to less than height of safety screw, got a #5 spring at ACE and a slightly weaker/same diameter spring (sorry did not write down #). I ended up useing weaker spring cut to same length as origional. Anyway,worked great! I am going to get a scale but I would guess it reduced from 6# to about 3#. No creep/travel, safety sound, overall excellent. May attempt to get a bit lighter but afraid to polish. May just run some fine wet sandpaper over it and try again. Thanks again, saved me over a hundred bucks. That wets the eye.
 
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