Log homes?

I'll caveat this post with the statement that I've been out of the contracting business for a decade.

Green log construction has a number of problems, starting with expected shrinkage. That can be a serious problem as the wall will "explode" sheet-rock on interior framing (personal experience) unless considerable allowances are made (hide the "gap" in a "floating wall" behind tall baseboards).

Modern systems are normally cured (pre dried), often shaped (typically tongue and grooved) and often cored (center bored out for air space advantages) which ameliorates the problems somewhat. That doesn't make them better than other methods, but at least more acceptable in some climate zones.

The equation is (normally) how much time the extra cost (over the cheapest method) will take to pay for itself, usually 7 yrs being the break-even point. In other words, how much will the total construction + maintenance + energy costs (etc) be for a 2 X 6 stick home be vs a log home (or any other type) over a seven year period.

Usually (some locals differ because of weather etc.) that calculates that a log home is a bad economic deal, though personal aesthetics may dictate otherwise. In short, the "R" value of log construction sucks, while the costs are usually greater.

If you are in an extremely rural area where it will cost a fortune to import building materials but you need to clear lots of timber (logs) to build, a traditional log home (properly built) may make sense, otherwise...
 
I have a stick built log sided home it has log corners from Lok N Log and looks like a real log home, I have full logs inside, beams that I personaly drug out of the woods and peeled.... yea there is extra maintenance not near as much as a full log home but worth it
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I have designed log homes for about 18 years and I'd like to clear up some of the terminology and other info, and I am not attacking anyone, ok?

I believe the proper terminology is "checks", not cracks. Logs have check marks, and they can be spiral or straight. Obviously the spiral checks can allow air infiltration if they go more than 1/2 way around the log. Usually the problems from the checks are around window and door openings or if the check is on the top half of the log as it sits in the wall. This should be correct with properly chinking.

Log shrinkage can be minimized by utilizing "standing dead timber". Beetle kill trees are usually about 25% moisture content- "stick built homes" constructed with 2x4 or 2x6 kiln dried studs, thus the term "stick" are usually at about 18% moisture content. Find a good log man with the skills, know-how, proper materials, and tools to do the job right and log shrinkage will be minimized during and after construction.

Why do you want a log home? Is it just for the asthetics, or are you looking for the real living qualities from log construction? Logs have about 1R value per inch of diameter, not much compared to an R-19 insulated wall, but they also have what is called "thermal mass", which for lack of a better description is the ability hold heat within the log itself. Build using 12" dbh logs, use quality windows and a good roof system (R44-50) and the energy efficiency will be there. If you heat up a log home and a framed home and then turn off the heat in both, the framed home will probably freeze up before the log home becomes uncomfortable.

Maintenance, yes there is alot of upkeep to any natural wood product exposed to the rain, wind and sun. Today there are alot of products on the market which makes this maintenance and upkeep a lot easier. Owning and living in a log home can have many rewards. Log home will probably cost you at least 30-40% more than a conventional home. The will also appraise for 30-40% more than a conventional home.

A great information site that will probably rebuke everything I have said, LOL. Best of luck with your project.

http://universityofloghomes.com/index.htm
 

Ive been in some log homes that had the walls cored for modern wiring systems. The best thing Ive ever seen though, was a log home that had surface mount fixtures. They looked like the bakelite stuff from the 20s...except modern quality. It was all surface mount, and I think the exposed surface mount electrical helped make the home more "period authentic".
 
Mtstcon, I'd really enjoy talking to you in person at our hunt/convention (click on my banner, it's not that far away to attend).

One of the most beautiful "effects" of wood is "checking".

I have left green wood timbers alone for months (both ends clamped securely) in order to get suitable (checked) beams.

Wood is a great medium or addition to a refab, but in today's economy it's not necessarily the best choice.
 
thanks again for all your info guys.we have always loved the looks of a log cabin inside and out and it just fits our lifestyle very well. to answer your question.
Becky
 
I always said the best looking log homes are the ones you see driving by at 50 mph. Once you get up close, you realize the amount of maintance they take. They look nice, but no thanks.
 
Log homes are great for people who can afford to hire people to maintain them. They are not something you can keep looking good on your own while still working a job.

Jack
 
I have a ward cedar home here in Maine.
it's now 22 years old and there's very little cracking and only 1 or 2 logs that are even remotely twisted.

HOWEVER, they do require more maintenance then a normal stick built home. there's a special cleaner that we use on it using a power washer, then you have to pull the caulking out and re caulk periodically, then there's the oil/stain, again sprayed on seems to work best as it pushes it into the cracks better.

The southern side of the house is the worse for maintenance, since it dries out faster. But the northern side is the dirtiest, an has mildew issues if not cleaned yearly.

there's also a hoard of bug problems, I never heard of "carpenter wasps" until I had a log house and saw them boring into the outside walls, so we have the house professionally sprayed twice a year.

your home owners insurance will cost about double what it usually would, since a wall cannot just be repaired after a fire. not sure if you would have to rebuild the house and I don't even want to think about a fire in a log house.

all electrical outlets on the outside wall are actually mounted on the walls and stick out and wires hidden under trim work, since the walls are solid, same goes for plumbing, etc.

In the winter the temps can get down to the 20's though, and if the suns out, the logs suck the suns heat in and keep the house warmer then it would normally. In the summer we just keep the windows open and catch the breeze (we're up on a hill) so it keeps it cooler in the summer, but if you were in a valley, it would probably get hotter in the summer.

the inside is great though, since both my wife and I love the wood look.
 
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