Encore Accuracy Locker Hinge Pin

shardin

New member
Has anybody used one of these and if so do they work . Eabco list them for 39.00 is there a cheaper place to get one.

Thanks
 
Before I spent a dime on one I would try all the free/cheap methods to get the most from the gun. Personally I think they belong on the same list of BS as barrel de-resonators.

There are some very simple things you can do to milk the best accuracy from a break action gun that won't cost you $39.
Foreend fit and screw torque
bag or rest placement
ammo
trigger
among others.
 
Originally Posted By: skb2706Before I spent a dime on one I would try all the free/cheap methods to get the most from the gun. Personally I think they belong on the same list of BS as barrel de-resonators.

There are some very simple things you can do to milk the best accuracy from a break action gun that won't cost you $39.
Foreend fit and screw torque
bag or rest placement
ammo
trigger
among others.

I reload and have worked up MOA and sub MOA for all my rifles except my TC encore. I understand
bag rest ammo triggers but tell me more about fore end torque
 
7mm08 reg tc barrel 24" I believe - it doesnt shoot terrible like some I have heard of but more than 2" at a hundred . I loading 4350 and 140 gr sp .
 
Check out Mike Bellms website, he has tons of info on tweaking encores. I tried a oversized hinge pin and lock up spring, and replaced the trigger spring in mine and saw some improvement, but I think the biggest issue with them is pressure on the barrel from the forend.
 
Originally Posted By: shardinOriginally Posted By: skb2706Before I spent a dime on one I would try all the free/cheap methods to get the most from the gun. Personally I think they belong on the same list of BS as barrel de-resonators.

There are some very simple things you can do to milk the best accuracy from a break action gun that won't cost you $39.
Foreend fit and screw torque
bag or rest placement
ammo
trigger
among others.

I reload and have worked up MOA and sub MOA for all my rifles except my TC encore. I understand
bag rest ammo triggers but tell me more about fore end torque

I am into Contender carbines from back when the first 21" carbine barrels hit the stores. Over the years I have put them together in dozens of configurations and chamberings. I have tried hanger bars, orings, bedding and building my own foreends from scratch just to get the consistency they require to be accurate......everytime you switch barrels. I have several TCs that are accurate prairie dog rifles out well beyond 400 yds. My personal best is 652 yds. with several witnesses. I am convinced that a properly bedded foreend with screws torqued exactly the same way everytime gives me that capability.
Honestly I have no personal experience with Encores but the concept and assembly of the two are identical.
 
Agree with what others have said. Check out Mike Bellms website. He has oversized hinge pins for $10.00. This will tighten things up.

Also read his advise on headspace. In my 257 Roberts, after I resize my brass, I use a Redding body die to set back the shoulder to give the proper and consistant headspace. There is a little stretch in the frame when a cartridge is fired and shows up in the brass.

Another things I've found is both of my barrels like a fair amount of jump to the lands, even with lead core bullets.

My Encore has the following mods to it...
Stronger mainspring...
Trigger job...
Stronger locking lug spring in each barrel...
Forearm floated except the area around the screws...
1X hinge pin...

My 24" 257 Roberts barrel shoots 75gr bullets sub MOA and 100gr TSX MOA.
My 24" 22 K-Hornet barrel shoots 35gr V-max's sub MOA all day long.
Your 7-08 should shoot MOA or better with a little tweaking.

Good luck and I hope this helps.
 
Bed the forend on a TC?? Really. Never thought of that. As for torqued forend screws, what is the inch pounds of torque you recommend? My hornet shoots very good, but there is always room for improvement.
 
Originally Posted By: MGYSGTBed the forend on a TC?? Really. Never thought of that. As for torqued forend screws, what is the inch pounds of torque you recommend? My hornet shoots very good, but there is always room for improvement.

I know it goes against the grain or common practices. . I am on the SP forums and occasionally Graybeards too so I know others have a different idea.

This is what I found. The typical hanger bar set up leaves much to be desired, it is fragile and really doesn't 'do' anything except add $30 to the cost of a barrel. To work well they require bedding of the bar in the foreend and even then are difficult to tighten the way I want them to. The o ring idea works but its difficult to assemble a gun with rubber pieces and actually torque screws to any degree of accuracy. To bed the foreend allows for using sling swivels, bipods, slings and any style of rest without changing POI. Its the only thing I have ever found that does this. When I bed a foreend it will have 3 pad areas of Devcon that will match the contour of any "full bull" configuration barrel and screw on in exactly the same place everytime. I use the 15 inch pounds as a standard because as you probably know the dovetail nuts in a TC barrel can pull loose if overtightened often. This seems to be ideal. It is definitely not the only way to put the gun together but it certainly works for me.
 
I've had good luck with the hanger bar on all my barrels.
I also make sure that certain barrels are mated to certain frames, get sighted in on those frames and always get shot on those frames.
I only have 1 in rifle config, all the rest are pistols.
7-30 Waters, 223, 256Win Mag, 45LC, 45-70, 243, 308, 6.5x284, 6BR.
I've shot them on paper, but that gets boring to me.
All of mine are plenty capable to hit clay birds at 300yds...some a little farther
smile.gif

The first thing I do to any frame is give it a good trigger job...then I start working on loads.
I haven't bedded any of my forends yet, I haven't felt the need.
Maybe this winter I'll do one and see if it makes a diffence.
 
One other thing I did to mine was open up the forend where the "ears" go back over the frame. My frame was putting pressure on one side of the forend at that point and I used a dremmel to open it up a little.
 
Originally Posted By: mad okieOne other thing I did to mine was open up the forend where the "ears" go back over the frame. My frame was putting pressure on one side of the forend at that point and I used a dremmel to open it up a little.

This is one thing that two of the custom aftermarket barrel makers insist that you do for optimum accuracy. I use a flat file but to the same effect.
 
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