Hi all,
The absolute best way to deal with parvo is to sleep with your vet.......that is what works for me, and SHE is good lookin' to boot.
I sent Tony a PM this summer with advice on parvo. This may help some of you all too.
I admire the fact that many of you are independent do-it-yourselfers, some by choice but many by necessity. However, my feeling has always been that when your livelihood or part of your livelihood depends on producing dogs, a good vet is a must. I understand vets are expensive and I understand why (I help make the student loan payments). My recommendation is to do a little research and find a good vet/vet clinic then go and meet with the owner and explain to him that you have multiple dogs and are a trainer/breeder. Most will then give discounts, waive office and exam fees etc. If not shop around a little more. Once a relationship is established most vets are more willing to sell you supplies "across the counter" without an office visit every time. Most vets require an office visit every time not necessarily to make money but are required by law to "examine" patients before dispensing meds. Assuming you can get a good deal worked out, let the vet vaccinate the puppies. If you have a severe outbreak even after following the vet and vaccine maker's protocols the pharmaceutical companies will often pay for care of any sick puppies, refund vaccination costs etc. and investigate why you had an outbreak. They will not reimburse for the "value" of the dog nor will a court make them (I'm not going to get into that) but there are many advantages to letting a vet do it. Additionally, if you have to fly puppies or dogs to knew owners it facilitates health papers, etc. Be sure to follow the de-worming recommendations outline below as well.
If however, you can not find a vet that will work with you or you are just to far away to get to a vet regularly, here are "my" vets orders...er recommendations.
1.De-worm puppies every two weeks beginning at 4 weeks of age, with a good de-wormer, (not a pet store dewormer). Worms in the intestinal track affect the lining of the stomach and make the puppy more susceptible to parvo....lots of big words and medical jargon as to why....but that what she says.......
2. Know where your vaccines come from and use a 5-way (for the first 2)beginning at 6 weeks. Give at 6,9,12, and 15 weeks. Giving vaccines prior to 6 weeks are really ineffective because a puppies immune response is really not developed well enough prior to 6 weeks of age to respond to a vaccine properly. It won't hurt giving them sooner per se, but if you give a shot a 5 weeks, wait 3 weeks for the next booster in reality the puppy has little to no protection weeks 6 and 7...time when most puppies contract parvo (again her opinion).....
3. Most breeders let nature take its course at whelping time and that is fine. However, if you have a problem with parvo in your area. Whelp puppies in a controlled area. Keep an attendant there all the time and as soon as the puppy is born, rub them down good with a towel to stimulate and dry them and put them right on momma to nurse immediately (this makes certain that puppies get colostrum immediately). This is one thing I have always done. It stinks to have to sit with a dog the whole time they whelp but it makes a HUGE difference.
Hope this helps. I also constructed a VERY useful, easy to clean, SAFE, whelping box with a pig rail. It is the "cats meow" up until pups hit 4 weeks and then if you manage things right it is useful till weaning. If you are interested I can post pics, just let me know. We have had many pups born at our kennel since 1998 and have lost 2-3 puppies that were born alive. I have the added concern of the Mrs. bringing parvo home from the clinic, but have had no problems yet. KNOCK ON WOOD!!!
Hope this helps!!!
Brian