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#1664275 - 08/31/10 10:15 AM Re: I freakin hate PARVO! Arghh!!! [Re: Kenlguy]
TonyTebbe Offline
Retired PM Staff.

Registered: 10/31/03
Posts: 18681
Loc: Lovington, NM
Originally Posted By: Kenlguy
Lets have some more info. Did the vet vaccinate them? What brand of vaccine? Modified live or killed?

Then we'll know what to stay away from


I used the UNIVAC-7 shots with the modified live parvo virus. Not sure if the brand is good or something to stay away from. It could have been a handling issue, prior to me purchasing them. The vet supply store packed them with ice packs for me for my ride home, so I kinda trust that they handled them properly when they had them, but who knows?

Tony
_________________________
Loving my Kids, Loving my Woman, Loving my Dogs, Loving my Job..........Loving my Life!

Tony Tebbe

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#1664987 - 09/01/10 12:50 PM Re: I freakin hate PARVO! Arghh!!! [Re: TonyTebbe]
ajneal30 Offline
Seasoned Member

Registered: 02/16/08
Posts: 252
Loc: Nevada
Tony, I just recently found out that when feed stores or vets get in a shipment of vaccine, there is something in there (not sure if it is just a strip of paper a dummy vial or what) that will change color if it gets too warm. You never know if the vaccine has gone bad unless you see that, maybe if you bought a whole case and had access to that indicator? Then you would know they were handled correctly. Just to be on the safe side, I might try another brand as well. That's too hard to have to do very often. Especially with your son being attached to Tank. Good luck and I hope you can kick this problem in the butt!
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Gun Control means never having to say ... I Missed You...



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#1665389 - 09/01/10 09:38 PM Re: I freakin hate PARVO! Arghh!!! [Re: ajneal30]
yoteslayer0927 Offline
Seasoned Member

Registered: 11/23/08
Posts: 232
Loc: Ohio
Hi all,

The absolute best way to deal with parvo is to sleep with your vet.......that is what works for me, and SHE is good lookin' to boot. tt1

I sent Tony a PM this summer with advice on parvo. This may help some of you all too.

I admire the fact that many of you are independent do-it-yourselfers, some by choice but many by necessity. However, my feeling has always been that when your livelihood or part of your livelihood depends on producing dogs, a good vet is a must. I understand vets are expensive and I understand why (I help make the student loan payments). My recommendation is to do a little research and find a good vet/vet clinic then go and meet with the owner and explain to him that you have multiple dogs and are a trainer/breeder. Most will then give discounts, waive office and exam fees etc. If not shop around a little more. Once a relationship is established most vets are more willing to sell you supplies "across the counter" without an office visit every time. Most vets require an office visit every time not necessarily to make money but are required by law to "examine" patients before dispensing meds. Assuming you can get a good deal worked out, let the vet vaccinate the puppies. If you have a severe outbreak even after following the vet and vaccine maker's protocols the pharmaceutical companies will often pay for care of any sick puppies, refund vaccination costs etc. and investigate why you had an outbreak. They will not reimburse for the "value" of the dog nor will a court make them (I'm not going to get into that) but there are many advantages to letting a vet do it. Additionally, if you have to fly puppies or dogs to knew owners it facilitates health papers, etc. Be sure to follow the de-worming recommendations outline below as well.

If however, you can not find a vet that will work with you or you are just to far away to get to a vet regularly, here are "my" vets orders...er recommendations.

1.De-worm puppies every two weeks beginning at 4 weeks of age, with a good de-wormer, (not a pet store dewormer). Worms in the intestinal track affect the lining of the stomach and make the puppy more susceptible to parvo....lots of big words and medical jargon as to why....but that what she says.......

2. Know where your vaccines come from and use a 5-way (for the first 2)beginning at 6 weeks. Give at 6,9,12, and 15 weeks. Giving vaccines prior to 6 weeks are really ineffective because a puppies immune response is really not developed well enough prior to 6 weeks of age to respond to a vaccine properly. It won't hurt giving them sooner per se, but if you give a shot a 5 weeks, wait 3 weeks for the next booster in reality the puppy has little to no protection weeks 6 and 7...time when most puppies contract parvo (again her opinion).....

3. Most breeders let nature take its course at whelping time and that is fine. However, if you have a problem with parvo in your area. Whelp puppies in a controlled area. Keep an attendant there all the time and as soon as the puppy is born, rub them down good with a towel to stimulate and dry them and put them right on momma to nurse immediately (this makes certain that puppies get colostrum immediately). This is one thing I have always done. It stinks to have to sit with a dog the whole time they whelp but it makes a HUGE difference.

Hope this helps. I also constructed a VERY useful, easy to clean, SAFE, whelping box with a pig rail. It is the "cats meow" up until pups hit 4 weeks and then if you manage things right it is useful till weaning. If you are interested I can post pics, just let me know. We have had many pups born at our kennel since 1998 and have lost 2-3 puppies that were born alive. I have the added concern of the Mrs. bringing parvo home from the clinic, but have had no problems yet. KNOCK ON WOOD!!!

Hope this helps!!!

Brian


Edited by yoteslayer0927 (09/01/10 09:43 PM)
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#1665404 - 09/01/10 10:05 PM Re: I freakin hate PARVO! Arghh!!! [Re: yoteslayer0927]
yoteslayer0927 Offline
Seasoned Member

Registered: 11/23/08
Posts: 232
Loc: Ohio
I wanted to add one more thing. Bleach is a great disinfectant but is rather useless at disinfecting anything that is soiled. For example if you have stainless steel food bowls they will have build-up on them from the dog food and dog slober. Bleach does a poor job at penetrating that build-up and disinfecting it (as do most sanitizing agents). Ideally you have to remove all the "dirt" prior to "sanitizing" to be affective. I was taught to use a POWDERED laundry detergent to clean and remove soiling before using a disinfectant. The powdered laundry detergent has a positive ion associated with it that is readily "taken" up by many bacteria that have a negative charge and thus destroyed....That whole gram+, gram- bacteria stuff you learned in high school microbiology class. Sunshine and lots of time is probably the only way to get rid of parvo in the soil!

Brian


Edited by yoteslayer0927 (09/01/10 10:07 PM)
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Certified Wildlife Biologist


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