bedding a savage action??
- Thread starter BOBTAILS
- Start date
Check this link out. Maybe this will help.
http://savageshooters.com/index.php?articleview=Stock Bedding 101
http://savageshooters.com/index.php?articleview=Stock Bedding 101
Or try this.
Stock Bedding 101
by: Lefty223
Disclaimer:
The information contained on this website and that posted on the forum is based on the experience of the author (s) and is
only being provided to show their method used to achieve the desired results. What you do with this information is your
choice and your responsibility. Persons choosing to use this information do so at their own accord and risk, and thus
assume any and all responsibility for any damage, injury or death as a result.
Tools & Supplies:
Epoxy Marine-tex or Pro-Bed 2000 ($18 @ www.scorehi.com). Pro-Bed is awesome stuff; has micro-balloons at the microscopic level, which means it wont compress and is incredibly stable stays where you put it. Available in black or brown, it comes complete with instructions, wax release agent, brush applicators for wax, and epoxy mixing sticks.
Release Agent I use Pam cooking spray with olive oil. Others swear by Johnsons paste wax; two coats. I prefer the spray as you can really coat the nooks and crannies.
Stock Bolts Run to your local auto hardware store and get two 3 long x 28 threads-per-inch bolts. You will use these to center the action onto the pillars/bolt holes.
Masking Tape Blue 3M brand preferred - leaves no residue, doesnt dry out.
Misc. Metal cleaner/degreaser, Exacto knife or razor blade, chisel, rasp, screwdrivers, and Allen wrenches. Surgical tubing or good quality electrical tape to secure action in stock while drying. You will need a rasp or small chisel and a drill to remove wood/plastic where the action will sit. A dremel tool is handy for working around the pillars if you have one.
Optional But highly recommended! A rifle rest is preferred; if you were to bed the rifle and leave it lying sideways on a table, its own weight would shift the action to one side. Remember, the objective of bedding is to eliminate stresses in the action-to-stock fit.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Definitions:
Mechanical Lock - You have to be careful to prevent any hole or feature from "locking" the pieces together. If you had a small hole or recess (negative feature) in the action, but need to bed in that area, fill the hole with wax or modeling clay, then apply release agent over it.
The standard Savage 110-type action is pretty easy to bed because it is tubular. Some rifle actions have knobs or screws that protrude from the sides (positive features) these can create a mechanical lock too.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Procedure:
1. Prep the action:
Before removing it from the stock, remove the scope. Yes, a pain to sight-in later, but youll protect your investment. Remove bolt. With the action still in the stock, wipe down action with cleaner/degreaser; I prefer Roson lighter fluid (naphtha). Place a reference strip of tape down action sides just above the stock line.
2. Savage rifle tang check:
Before you remove the action from stock, check the tang area. Unlike other rifles that have a stock bolt into the rear tang, the Savage rifle needs 0.010 to 0.030 clearance all the way around. With wood stocks I try for the closer tolerance. If you get interference before you bed, you may want to relieve a bit now, or at least be prepared to check this area once you apply the epoxy. You do have some working time
3. Remove action:
Remove action from stock and remove trigger assembly. If you have never taken one apart, they can use 3 hands to reassemble them for the 1st timer. Please make notes and/or sketches of what goes where before you take it apart.
Now you can clean the area of the action that was in the stock, using your tapeline as a reference. Place tape at that point and above only this is to prevent epoxy run-off that will seep out when bedding from getting on anything; specifically those areas you may not have applied release agent to.
4. Prep the stock:
Two things to do (a) Remove material where the action sits so that you get a nice even bed of epoxy and (b) Tape off areas on the stock, inside and out.
Wood Stock: Wherever the rifle will be bedded, remove wood. Using the pillars as a guide, I removed about 1/16 or less of wood, using a combination of sharp knives, chisels, rasps, and/or a dremel tool. Synthetic Stock: These are more difficult to bed, or at least prep. The material is a [beeep] to remove (dremel tool a must) and you need mechanical locks to hold the epoxy bedding in place once bedded. Use exacto knifes and rough sandpaper to really make the bedding surface fuzzy; remove all shine.
NOTE: Some have had good luck merely doing a skim coat of bedding between the action and bedding surfaces without removing any material. Im not sure this will last over the lifetime of the rifle but so far theyre very happy with their results !!
Above shows an after picture of a bedded 12 BVSS-S. Where the light blue dots are I drilled into the wood so epoxy would flow into these holes to really add support to the epoxy bed. These are a must in my opinion for synthetic stocks.
If you look carefully at the stock Savage pillar you can see bright marks where I got full contact between the pillar and action after bedding it. (I put black marker on there beforehand)
This sketch on the right shows the Savage action using the internal magazine. Where you see blue are the only places where you can bed. Also note that the rear surface of the recoil lug is also bedded into the epoxy. Again, stay away from the tang area, you need clearance there it floats above the stock, unlike other rifle actions.
On some rifles people bed the 1st two inches of the barrel. I take the try it without method first and have never had to bed that area, which is touch anyway on the Savage with the barrel nut. If you do bed that area, any recess on the nut in epoxy must be filled with clay or wax. On a switch-barrel rifle Id forget about it.
When bedding a Savage rifle with pillars, check to make sure you have adequate clearance in the tang area now. Once settled in the epoxy and onto the pillars, this dimension wont change. When bedding a Savage rifle without pillars, you need to take more care on prepping the bedding area and checking the tang. The bedded area needs to be roughed out parallel to the action. I would go for clearance to the tang on the min side if no pillars are in the stock. It's far easier to remove than "add" wood !!
5. Prep the action:
Using the tapeline we first established as the action sat in the stock (before we took it apart), I apply at least one width of tape at the stock line to the entire action. Epoxy will weep out the sides between the stock and action and you want both surfaces there to be taped to protect your rifle.
If there is any hole or feature on the action (other than stock-bolt hole) that needs to be protected so epoxy doesnt flow into it, use either modeling clay or melted candle wax to fill it in. Make sure you avoid creating mechanical locks; you want to get it apart again!
Apply at least 2 layers of tape to all surfaces of the recoil lug, except the rear surface. I use an X-Acto knife to trim the tape neatly. I did these pictures after the bedding job you want yours to be neater. Apply 2 layers tape out on the barrel bottom too.
6. Stock bolts:
Two methods here. Cut off hex-head and insert into action before putting action into the wet epoxy bed or inserting them into the action afterwards. I used to do the former, but had success trying it the other way.
For your first time, I would probably cut the head off and screw it into the action. The tape on the bolt body keeps the bolt centered in pillar/stockbolt-hole while the epoxy sets. When done, you do not want the bolts to bear against the stock during recoil, that is solely the function of the recoil lug. I highly recommend you attempt a few dry runs (no release agent or epoxy) with bolts in the action trying to fit them into the stock, as it will be a moderate challenge when the stock bed is filled with epoxy.
Ill give you my reasoning for leaving the heads on the bolts and inserting into the action after the action was set into the stock and epoxy bed. When bolts are already in action (with heads cut-off) you cant help but push epoxy down the stock-bolt holes, where the clearance is tight enough already with the tape on the body.
I feel that placing the bolt into the action after the action was placed is less disturbing to the epoxy bed. Yes, epoxy will get onto/into the action bolt holes, so make sure that the threads on the bolt is well sprayed/prepped with release agent and that the action is too, even inside (thats why I use Pam spray). When I did it this way, once I put the bolts in, I turned them every an hour or so for the first few hours drying and then checked them periodically. That way they never set into the epoxy. When done, there was a small ball or plug of epoxy on the ends of the bolt in the action, but where the action was sprayed with Pam cooking spray inside and out, it had nowhere to stick.
Just be comfortable with whichever manner you use. And I highly recommend you do one or two dry runs. With action and stock taped (but not sprayed or coated with release agent) run through the process of placing the action to-be-bedded into the stock. Look for mechanical locks (you dont want any) or places where the tape could be better done. Another tip get some kids Play-Dough (thinner and more pliable than modeling clay, usually) and put it in the surface to be bedded to give you an idea of just how much epoxy you need to put in there. Any surface you do this to needs to be roughed up again though or at least wiped with acetone, as these materials have a solvent (??) or base that could interfere with the epoxy.
Bottom line: You want the epoxy to really stick where you want it and to not stick where you dont. Lets look at a few more pics before we place the action into the wet stock.
The picture on the left is my completed 12 BVSS-S bed. You see a few holes in the epoxy, one behind the forward bolthole and the other midway between the two boltholes. These were probably area where I was a touch thin on epoxy. Thats not anything to worry about at all. In the other picture you can see how tight that area is around the rear be to both prep and tape off.
NOTE: You must apply tape & release agent around the magazine well on repeater actions.
7. Release Agent and Bedding:
Check again to make sure you have everything covered and please do a few dry runs (without epoxy or release agent) to make sure your fit or prep work is sound.
Using Pro-Bed 2000 I prefer to use Pam cooking spray with olive oil as a release agent. It is so simple and effective. Others use Johnsons paste wax, at least two coats, and Pro-Bed comes with a wax release agent in it. I have never tried wax yet as I grew up on the cooking spray method.
Remember: you only want to spray/wax the action and stock bolts DO NOT apply or spray or apply any release agent into the stock. Spray/wax the exposed metal on the action where it will bed into the epoxy as well the tapelines around the action where it sits above the sides of the stock. Handle the action carefully when using the spray as it could lift the tape if not handled with care. Put action aside and spray the bolts. Give the action underside another thin spray immediately before placing into the epoxy.
8. Epoxy Bedding:
Mix the epoxy of your choice and apply only into those areas where the action sits. Action with magazine (by two stock-bolt holes and recoil lug area), single-shot version: (full action bottom in the stock and recoil lug area). Make sure you have enough epoxy in the extreme bottom of the stock and in the recoil lug area. If it thins out anywhere else, thats usually OK. You do not want to be thin in coverage at the recoil lug. This is where it all happens. Any excess should weep towards the muzzle, thats why you also taped the bottom surface of the barrel forward of the barrel nut (which should be taped for 3-4) with at least two layers.
Ready to go?? Good!! Insert action as carefully as you can into the wet epoxy. Using electrical tape because it stretches or silicone tubing, bind the action into the stock as tight as you can. Using a gun rest will help when drying, if you were to simply place it on its side, the weight of the barrel will pull to that side and your purpose of bedding will be destroyed in an instant.
Use this time to wipe of any excess epoxy that seeped out of the action/stock juncture. Let it dry according to the epoxy instructions or at least > 24 hours. If you inserted the stock-bolts into the action after the action was placed into the wet epoxy, make sure you give these a few turns in and out as it dries, when you leave it, make sure bolt is turned in all the way it can go.
9. Getting the action apart:
Go slowly, you will need a plastic/wood/rawhide mallet to knock the assembled pieces before you can get them apart. You can rap on the stock bolts a bit (dont use enough force to damage the threads), and then remove the stock bolts. I know one friend who had to put a brass drift up the forward bolt hole to help knock apart the action. Someone on the forum once had to place an entire bedded rifle into a chest freezer so the metal would shrink a bit in order to get it apart. I also use the palm of my hand and strike the sides of the stock hard in order to help break the bond.
Even though we used release agent, you have a perfect 1-for-1 impression in the epoxy, so the fit is exact. Please use patience and care go slowly and dont rush it or force it dont ruin all of your work now.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Clean-Up:
1. Clean: Clean of all tape or wax and give the action a good cleaning. Makes sure any and all epoxy is removed from the bolt or lug recesses you may have knocked a piece loose and who knows where it could go. Check everywhere!! Clean action and barrel.
2. Reassembly: Reassemble your trigger and CHECK FOR SAFE & PROPER FUNCTION!! For the action bolts I use an inch-pound torque wrench that I got on eBay for $15, works slick. The recommended torque range for the wood stocks is 40 50 inch-pounds. Id go 40 if no pillars. I set mine at 45 in-lbs in the laminated stock with pillars and it seems perfect. I will try setting them @ 50 for groups later on. The setting for synthetic stocks approaches 65 in-lbs from everything Ive read or heard about on the net. My synthetic stock was bedded before I got the torque wrench and its shooting great, so I wont fool with it for now. A new Wenig (www.wenig.com) custom stock will soon be ordered for it so Ill fool with it then.
3. Re-Check: You just did work on your firearm, please check and re-check it for proper assembly and operation. Replace you scope and off you go!!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer:
These instructions are only intended to assist the home firearms tinkerer or those familiar with firearms and general gunsmith tools and techniques to bed their own rifle. The author is NOT RESPONSIBLE for damage to you or others, your rifle, or equipment as a result of this document. It is YOUR responsibility to check everything before and after you start, and know your limits, otherwise please consult a professional gunsmith. You have been informed!
The Direct URL for this article is:
http://savageshooters.com/index.php?articleview=Stock Bedding 101
Stock Bedding 101
by: Lefty223
Disclaimer:
The information contained on this website and that posted on the forum is based on the experience of the author (s) and is
only being provided to show their method used to achieve the desired results. What you do with this information is your
choice and your responsibility. Persons choosing to use this information do so at their own accord and risk, and thus
assume any and all responsibility for any damage, injury or death as a result.
Tools & Supplies:
Epoxy Marine-tex or Pro-Bed 2000 ($18 @ www.scorehi.com). Pro-Bed is awesome stuff; has micro-balloons at the microscopic level, which means it wont compress and is incredibly stable stays where you put it. Available in black or brown, it comes complete with instructions, wax release agent, brush applicators for wax, and epoxy mixing sticks.
Release Agent I use Pam cooking spray with olive oil. Others swear by Johnsons paste wax; two coats. I prefer the spray as you can really coat the nooks and crannies.
Stock Bolts Run to your local auto hardware store and get two 3 long x 28 threads-per-inch bolts. You will use these to center the action onto the pillars/bolt holes.
Masking Tape Blue 3M brand preferred - leaves no residue, doesnt dry out.
Misc. Metal cleaner/degreaser, Exacto knife or razor blade, chisel, rasp, screwdrivers, and Allen wrenches. Surgical tubing or good quality electrical tape to secure action in stock while drying. You will need a rasp or small chisel and a drill to remove wood/plastic where the action will sit. A dremel tool is handy for working around the pillars if you have one.
Optional But highly recommended! A rifle rest is preferred; if you were to bed the rifle and leave it lying sideways on a table, its own weight would shift the action to one side. Remember, the objective of bedding is to eliminate stresses in the action-to-stock fit.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Definitions:
Mechanical Lock - You have to be careful to prevent any hole or feature from "locking" the pieces together. If you had a small hole or recess (negative feature) in the action, but need to bed in that area, fill the hole with wax or modeling clay, then apply release agent over it.
The standard Savage 110-type action is pretty easy to bed because it is tubular. Some rifle actions have knobs or screws that protrude from the sides (positive features) these can create a mechanical lock too.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Procedure:
1. Prep the action:
Before removing it from the stock, remove the scope. Yes, a pain to sight-in later, but youll protect your investment. Remove bolt. With the action still in the stock, wipe down action with cleaner/degreaser; I prefer Roson lighter fluid (naphtha). Place a reference strip of tape down action sides just above the stock line.
2. Savage rifle tang check:
Before you remove the action from stock, check the tang area. Unlike other rifles that have a stock bolt into the rear tang, the Savage rifle needs 0.010 to 0.030 clearance all the way around. With wood stocks I try for the closer tolerance. If you get interference before you bed, you may want to relieve a bit now, or at least be prepared to check this area once you apply the epoxy. You do have some working time
3. Remove action:
Remove action from stock and remove trigger assembly. If you have never taken one apart, they can use 3 hands to reassemble them for the 1st timer. Please make notes and/or sketches of what goes where before you take it apart.
Now you can clean the area of the action that was in the stock, using your tapeline as a reference. Place tape at that point and above only this is to prevent epoxy run-off that will seep out when bedding from getting on anything; specifically those areas you may not have applied release agent to.
4. Prep the stock:
Two things to do (a) Remove material where the action sits so that you get a nice even bed of epoxy and (b) Tape off areas on the stock, inside and out.
Wood Stock: Wherever the rifle will be bedded, remove wood. Using the pillars as a guide, I removed about 1/16 or less of wood, using a combination of sharp knives, chisels, rasps, and/or a dremel tool. Synthetic Stock: These are more difficult to bed, or at least prep. The material is a [beeep] to remove (dremel tool a must) and you need mechanical locks to hold the epoxy bedding in place once bedded. Use exacto knifes and rough sandpaper to really make the bedding surface fuzzy; remove all shine.
NOTE: Some have had good luck merely doing a skim coat of bedding between the action and bedding surfaces without removing any material. Im not sure this will last over the lifetime of the rifle but so far theyre very happy with their results !!
Above shows an after picture of a bedded 12 BVSS-S. Where the light blue dots are I drilled into the wood so epoxy would flow into these holes to really add support to the epoxy bed. These are a must in my opinion for synthetic stocks.
If you look carefully at the stock Savage pillar you can see bright marks where I got full contact between the pillar and action after bedding it. (I put black marker on there beforehand)
This sketch on the right shows the Savage action using the internal magazine. Where you see blue are the only places where you can bed. Also note that the rear surface of the recoil lug is also bedded into the epoxy. Again, stay away from the tang area, you need clearance there it floats above the stock, unlike other rifle actions.
On some rifles people bed the 1st two inches of the barrel. I take the try it without method first and have never had to bed that area, which is touch anyway on the Savage with the barrel nut. If you do bed that area, any recess on the nut in epoxy must be filled with clay or wax. On a switch-barrel rifle Id forget about it.
When bedding a Savage rifle with pillars, check to make sure you have adequate clearance in the tang area now. Once settled in the epoxy and onto the pillars, this dimension wont change. When bedding a Savage rifle without pillars, you need to take more care on prepping the bedding area and checking the tang. The bedded area needs to be roughed out parallel to the action. I would go for clearance to the tang on the min side if no pillars are in the stock. It's far easier to remove than "add" wood !!
5. Prep the action:
Using the tapeline we first established as the action sat in the stock (before we took it apart), I apply at least one width of tape at the stock line to the entire action. Epoxy will weep out the sides between the stock and action and you want both surfaces there to be taped to protect your rifle.
If there is any hole or feature on the action (other than stock-bolt hole) that needs to be protected so epoxy doesnt flow into it, use either modeling clay or melted candle wax to fill it in. Make sure you avoid creating mechanical locks; you want to get it apart again!
Apply at least 2 layers of tape to all surfaces of the recoil lug, except the rear surface. I use an X-Acto knife to trim the tape neatly. I did these pictures after the bedding job you want yours to be neater. Apply 2 layers tape out on the barrel bottom too.
6. Stock bolts:
Two methods here. Cut off hex-head and insert into action before putting action into the wet epoxy bed or inserting them into the action afterwards. I used to do the former, but had success trying it the other way.
For your first time, I would probably cut the head off and screw it into the action. The tape on the bolt body keeps the bolt centered in pillar/stockbolt-hole while the epoxy sets. When done, you do not want the bolts to bear against the stock during recoil, that is solely the function of the recoil lug. I highly recommend you attempt a few dry runs (no release agent or epoxy) with bolts in the action trying to fit them into the stock, as it will be a moderate challenge when the stock bed is filled with epoxy.
Ill give you my reasoning for leaving the heads on the bolts and inserting into the action after the action was set into the stock and epoxy bed. When bolts are already in action (with heads cut-off) you cant help but push epoxy down the stock-bolt holes, where the clearance is tight enough already with the tape on the body.
I feel that placing the bolt into the action after the action was placed is less disturbing to the epoxy bed. Yes, epoxy will get onto/into the action bolt holes, so make sure that the threads on the bolt is well sprayed/prepped with release agent and that the action is too, even inside (thats why I use Pam spray). When I did it this way, once I put the bolts in, I turned them every an hour or so for the first few hours drying and then checked them periodically. That way they never set into the epoxy. When done, there was a small ball or plug of epoxy on the ends of the bolt in the action, but where the action was sprayed with Pam cooking spray inside and out, it had nowhere to stick.
Just be comfortable with whichever manner you use. And I highly recommend you do one or two dry runs. With action and stock taped (but not sprayed or coated with release agent) run through the process of placing the action to-be-bedded into the stock. Look for mechanical locks (you dont want any) or places where the tape could be better done. Another tip get some kids Play-Dough (thinner and more pliable than modeling clay, usually) and put it in the surface to be bedded to give you an idea of just how much epoxy you need to put in there. Any surface you do this to needs to be roughed up again though or at least wiped with acetone, as these materials have a solvent (??) or base that could interfere with the epoxy.
Bottom line: You want the epoxy to really stick where you want it and to not stick where you dont. Lets look at a few more pics before we place the action into the wet stock.
The picture on the left is my completed 12 BVSS-S bed. You see a few holes in the epoxy, one behind the forward bolthole and the other midway between the two boltholes. These were probably area where I was a touch thin on epoxy. Thats not anything to worry about at all. In the other picture you can see how tight that area is around the rear be to both prep and tape off.
NOTE: You must apply tape & release agent around the magazine well on repeater actions.
7. Release Agent and Bedding:
Check again to make sure you have everything covered and please do a few dry runs (without epoxy or release agent) to make sure your fit or prep work is sound.
Using Pro-Bed 2000 I prefer to use Pam cooking spray with olive oil as a release agent. It is so simple and effective. Others use Johnsons paste wax, at least two coats, and Pro-Bed comes with a wax release agent in it. I have never tried wax yet as I grew up on the cooking spray method.
Remember: you only want to spray/wax the action and stock bolts DO NOT apply or spray or apply any release agent into the stock. Spray/wax the exposed metal on the action where it will bed into the epoxy as well the tapelines around the action where it sits above the sides of the stock. Handle the action carefully when using the spray as it could lift the tape if not handled with care. Put action aside and spray the bolts. Give the action underside another thin spray immediately before placing into the epoxy.
8. Epoxy Bedding:
Mix the epoxy of your choice and apply only into those areas where the action sits. Action with magazine (by two stock-bolt holes and recoil lug area), single-shot version: (full action bottom in the stock and recoil lug area). Make sure you have enough epoxy in the extreme bottom of the stock and in the recoil lug area. If it thins out anywhere else, thats usually OK. You do not want to be thin in coverage at the recoil lug. This is where it all happens. Any excess should weep towards the muzzle, thats why you also taped the bottom surface of the barrel forward of the barrel nut (which should be taped for 3-4) with at least two layers.
Ready to go?? Good!! Insert action as carefully as you can into the wet epoxy. Using electrical tape because it stretches or silicone tubing, bind the action into the stock as tight as you can. Using a gun rest will help when drying, if you were to simply place it on its side, the weight of the barrel will pull to that side and your purpose of bedding will be destroyed in an instant.
Use this time to wipe of any excess epoxy that seeped out of the action/stock juncture. Let it dry according to the epoxy instructions or at least > 24 hours. If you inserted the stock-bolts into the action after the action was placed into the wet epoxy, make sure you give these a few turns in and out as it dries, when you leave it, make sure bolt is turned in all the way it can go.
9. Getting the action apart:
Go slowly, you will need a plastic/wood/rawhide mallet to knock the assembled pieces before you can get them apart. You can rap on the stock bolts a bit (dont use enough force to damage the threads), and then remove the stock bolts. I know one friend who had to put a brass drift up the forward bolt hole to help knock apart the action. Someone on the forum once had to place an entire bedded rifle into a chest freezer so the metal would shrink a bit in order to get it apart. I also use the palm of my hand and strike the sides of the stock hard in order to help break the bond.
Even though we used release agent, you have a perfect 1-for-1 impression in the epoxy, so the fit is exact. Please use patience and care go slowly and dont rush it or force it dont ruin all of your work now.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Clean-Up:
1. Clean: Clean of all tape or wax and give the action a good cleaning. Makes sure any and all epoxy is removed from the bolt or lug recesses you may have knocked a piece loose and who knows where it could go. Check everywhere!! Clean action and barrel.
2. Reassembly: Reassemble your trigger and CHECK FOR SAFE & PROPER FUNCTION!! For the action bolts I use an inch-pound torque wrench that I got on eBay for $15, works slick. The recommended torque range for the wood stocks is 40 50 inch-pounds. Id go 40 if no pillars. I set mine at 45 in-lbs in the laminated stock with pillars and it seems perfect. I will try setting them @ 50 for groups later on. The setting for synthetic stocks approaches 65 in-lbs from everything Ive read or heard about on the net. My synthetic stock was bedded before I got the torque wrench and its shooting great, so I wont fool with it for now. A new Wenig (www.wenig.com) custom stock will soon be ordered for it so Ill fool with it then.
3. Re-Check: You just did work on your firearm, please check and re-check it for proper assembly and operation. Replace you scope and off you go!!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer:
These instructions are only intended to assist the home firearms tinkerer or those familiar with firearms and general gunsmith tools and techniques to bed their own rifle. The author is NOT RESPONSIBLE for damage to you or others, your rifle, or equipment as a result of this document. It is YOUR responsibility to check everything before and after you start, and know your limits, otherwise please consult a professional gunsmith. You have been informed!
The Direct URL for this article is:
http://savageshooters.com/index.php?articleview=Stock Bedding 101
I use this method to bed my B&C Duramax stock. Was very easy.
I bedTinkering with Ten Thumbs!
A Look into Improving the Duramaxx
By Steven Trapp (trappst)
First, a little bit about myself. My name is Steven Trapp (trappst), currently Im 29 years old and live in rural east-central Illinois. I began hunting at an early age, but I started reloading and shooting center-fire rifles (with a passion) in 2000. My first center-fire was a Ruger M77 Mark II VT in 22-250 rem. It was a beautiful rifle but I was only able to hit the 5 shot .5" mark (at times!) with reloads that were too long for the magazine due to the excessively long throat. After seeing the adds for the new Accutrigger, I sold the Ruger and bought a Savage 12 FVSS in 22-250 rem. That is when it all started! The new Savage was beating the Ruger in accuracy right out of the box....with FACTORY AMMO! A friend of mine told me about an email shooting competition and after logging in, I was hooked! Before coming to SavageShooters a couple years ago, I had no idea barrel swaps were possible and I had no clue what Go and No-Go gauges were used for! Im not a technical guy and when it comes to hands on projects, I normally have ten thumbs instead of two! To think, in just a couple years I now have 5 actions, 7 barrels (more to come) and countless stocks. Im now able to swap barrels with ease, bed a rifle action, and I make some pretty good reloads! Granted, I dont shoot in any formal competitions and Im not what you might call a benchrest shooter but I can still hold my own with the equipment I have.
Now, for the meat n taters of this article! Im sure you are all aware of the flimsy nature of the factory synthetic stock that comes on some Savage models.....you should be, weve been over this a thousand times! The great thing about the flimsy factory stock is that it works while keeping the price down. There are however, several very nice upgrades available to the consumer. The stock that this article will be focusing on is the Duramaxx. The Duramaxx is available in a variety of colors through several sources but I have purchased two from MidwayUSA.com. The first was tan with black webbing and the most recent is olive drab with black webbing. If you are able to find them on sale, they are a great buy....I think I got my most recent one for around $80. No, they arent a high dollar custom stock but they are a big improvement over the factory tupperware. The first thing you will notice is the improvement in rigidity throughout the entire stock. This allows the stock to ride bags a little better and drastically improves shooting when using a bipod. In addition, they come with an actual recoil pad instead of the factory installed hockey puck. One of the main features I love is the fact that the stock comes with aluminum pillar bedding just like the factory piece. The stock is made for a heavy barrel but I have used them with sporter barrels with success.....the gap is just a little bigger. As this is not a review of the Duramaxx, I will get to the point and let all of you decide if the Duramaxx is worth the money.
As some of you may know, the Duramaxx is designed to be a drop in fit for the Savage action, and normally it is. You may have to make a small modification for an Accutrigger model but for the most part, they drop right in. However, there can be problems! The main problem I have encountered and the one I will be concentrating on is the contact points that can be present between the action and stock. The areas that I have seen in the two stocks I have are as follows: uneven contact on front pillar, contact along side of action in the magazine area, uneven contact on rear pillar and normally heavy contact in the tang area. (see Figure 1) Ive found this contact to cause flyers and enlarged groups, especially with a harder recoiling rifle. In addition, as the contact points wear it may cause a drastic shift in point of impact. My model 12 shifted 3 inches low and 2 inches right after about 100 rounds. As you know, the Savage action was designed to have a floating tang area and when there is contact, it can adversely affect accuracy. One of the easiest ways to fix this problem is by using some 100 grit sandpaper. After shooting my model 12, I removed the stock to adjust the trigger and found shiny spots in the areas that I noted above. Using the sandpaper, I sanded those areas to remove the paint and primer. Usually, this is plenty to allow clearance but there may be times where a little more material will have to be removed. After sanding for about 10 minutes, I placed the action in the stock and checked for contact by running a piece of paper in between the action and stock. (see Figure 13) Instead of continually removing and replacing the action bolts, I got some 3 long 1/4" x 28 bolts from the local hardware store (cut the heads off) to help align the action in the stock. As you can see in the photo, I wrap the bolts with 3M tape to ensure the bolts are centered in the pillars. (see Figure 2) As I sanded, I used a trial and error approach as I didnt want to remove any more material than was necessary. As I worked, I would check for contact with a piece of paper and note any contact on a piece of 3M tape that was placed on the stock. Once satisfied with my work, I went back over the sanded areas with a fine sandpaper to smooth things out. As you can see from Figures 3-1 and 3-2, by relieving these contact areas my model 12 began to shoot much tighter than it had. If you look closely at the groups, youll notice some horizontal stringing. One other problem that has occurred is that the action will normally be slightly pushed to one side in the stock. My Model 12 had this problem which was causing the stock to contact the trigger group. This contact was making the trigger to be very inconsistent - it went from about 1 pounds to about 10 ounces!. At times, the trigger would function normally but at times the darn thing would break at 10 ounces. Talk about a shock to the system! Some light sanding around the front pillar helped the problem but I have to be very careful while assembling the rifle to ensure the trigger group isnt contacting the stock. I have plans on bedding my model 12 which should completely solve this and the stringing problem.
Since the above modifications worked well with my model 12, I decided to use the same methods for my Stevens 200, but take things a bit farther. I purchased another Stevens 200, this time in 223, for the sole purpose of building a 223 Ackley Improved. After bringing the rifle home, I immediately took the rifle apart and installed a Timney trigger, new bolt handle and replaced the plastic trigger guard with a metal one. I then removed the factory barrel and began the sanding process explained above. For this rifle, I chose to use the olive drab with black webbing colored Duramaxx. I was able to relieve the contact areas very easily but there were a few spots (tang, mag area) that required a bit more sanding than usual (see Figure 4). Once finished, I decided to complete the project by bedding the action with Miles Gilbert Bedrock. I have had very good success with Bedrock and I love the microballoons.....the ability to change the consistency is a huge plus in some areas.
After removing the contact points, my first step in bedding was to check the areas in the stock where the action was making contact with the pillars. To accomplish this, I used some Miles Gilbert Inletting (see Figure 5). By applying the inletting to the action and then setting the action into the stock (and securing), the material is transferred to the stock and you are able to tell exactly where material needs to be removed. A little note here: the inletting I used was very thick and tacky and a real pain to remove. It worked, but I would recommend using something else (marker or white-out maybe?). As you can see in the photo, the contact on the front pillar was hit and miss while the rear pillar was contacting very well. (see Figure 6) For removing material in a synthetic stock, there is nothing better than the good ole Dremel! I chose to remove about 1/8" of material on top of the pillars and a good portion around the recoil lug area. The recoil lug ([beeep] lug used) is the key......if bedding is done properly, all of the recoil should be absorbed here and not elsewhere in the stock. As you can see, I did not remove material for the entire width of the recoil lug but the relief does extend to the bottom of the pillar. Also, I chose to bed the area in front of the recoil lug. If this is done, make sure to use a couple layers of tape when covering the front and sides of the recoil lug (do not tape the rear surface) (see Figure 7). I also used several layers of tape on the barrel nut and first few inches of the barrel to ensure there is no contact in these areas. In addition, make certain that there is no contact between the bottom of the recoil lug and stock. Note that I also filled the holes on each side of the front pillar. (see Figure 12) I used a small amount of Bedrock to fill these holes prior to bedding the rifle. By filling the holes in a separate step, I was able to sand the areas to ensure a flush surface. Removal of material is very straight forward and made simple by using the inletting (or a version of) and a Dremel. (Figures 8-1, 8-2) Tip: When using a Dremel, please wear eye protection and a face mask doesnt hurt either. Some types of synthetic stocks can be very irritating to the eyes and lungs!
I am not going to go into great detail on the bedding process as the instructions supplied with Bedrock are VERY good. In addition, most of my process was taken from the article Stock Bedding 101" written by Lefty223 which is on the homepage. Lefty223 does a fabulous job in his article and it is well worth your time. I will however pass along a few more tips and photographs. Once you have the material removed, its time to prep the action. I prefer to remove the scope, bases, rings and trigger group.....just to be safe. I do NOT remove the magazine box. Removal of the mag box would make things a little easier, but I find that trying to get those darn things off and on isnt worth the trouble! Clean the action well to remove any oils or solvent that may inhibit the release agent....this is a MUST!!! Once you get the action cleaned, tape off or fill (modeling clay) any areas on the action that may create a mechanical lock (mainly the trigger area)(see Figure 15). Now that the action is ready, youll need to block off the areas in the stock where you dont want the bedding to go. For this, modeling clay can be used but I prefer to use play dough......Ive found modeling clay to be a pain to completely remove from synthetic stocks. (see Figures 9 & 10) If you use play dough, be sure to bed the rifle soon after as the play dough will shrink as it dries out. For release agent, I use the stuff that comes with Bedrock. I apply one coat, let it dry and then apply another generous coat. Ive also used Pam cooking spray with success in the past. Just make sure you coat the action well!! (see Figure 16)
Once you get everything prepped, its time to bed! Mixing the bedding is straight forward but at the same time the amount of bedding can be critical. You want to have enough but you dont want too much.....here is where a trail run with play dough in place of the bedding can be a real life saver. It takes a little time, but it will give you a great idea of how much bedding material to put in the relieved areas. If you choose to do a trial run, rough up any surfaces that were covered in play dough to ensure the bedding compound will stick.
Once you get the bedding compound in the stock, its time to very gently set the barreled action in place. There are two methods here: One is to use the regular action screws and turn them into place after setting the action. The other (my preferred method) is to use the bolts mentioned earlier. I really feel this method allows less disturbance to the bedding and makes for a cleaner finished product. By using the long bolts, it allows the action to be set in the bedding with minimal movement and ensures the action is in the right place, the FIRST time. By using tape on the bolts, it ensures the bolts are centered and not making contact on the aluminum pillars. I also use tape on the barrel at the end of the stock to keep the barrel centered (the whole off center action thing)(see Figure 14). After setting the action in the stock and ensuring its in the right place, I use electrical tape to secure the action in place......the supplied tubing works too but I prefer the tape.(see Figure 11) If you are bedding a rifle with a heavy barrel, make sure the action is securely held on the rear pillar. The extra weight of the barrel can cause the action to tip forward, causing problems with the contact on the rear pillar. After everything is set where you want it, make sure to clean up any bedding that may have seeped out while setting the action.
Now its time to wait! Follow the instructions on cure time and DO NOT mess with the action!!!!! I use a Tipton gun vise to hold the stock and I also use a level to ensure the stock is not tilted in any way (very important). After the bedding has had sufficient time to cure, removal is normally straight forward.......this will all depend on your prep work! I will normally place a dowel rod in the action and lift the action straight up by using the dowel and barrel as handles. You may need to tap on the sides of the stock to get it freed up but I have yet to get one stuck! After removing the action, there may be areas within the stock where the bedding seeped out. I just use a Dremel or small hobby knife to clean these areas up......it makes the job look neater! (see Figure 17). As seen in Figure 18, air pockets can cause small voids in the bedding material. Small voids arent a real problem, but larger ones should be filled with more material. Once you have everything touched up, clean the stock and action and prepare to reassemble. Check everywhere on the action and stock to make certain you didnt forget something! Mount your bases, rings and scope and head off to the range. Before firing that first shot, make sure everything is in good working order and functioning properly. Lastly, please check the bore for any obstructions.....just to be safe, it wouldnt hurt to quickly clean the bore!
The Finished Product
Once completed, I chose to mount Burris 2pc. tactical bases with Burris medium Sig. Zee rings. For glass, I normally use Burris Optics but for this project I chose to use the Nikon Buckmaster 6-18x40 SF with Nikoplex reticle. The barrel on this rifle is an Adams and Bennett heavy barrel, 24" 1:14 twist chambered for the 223 Ackley Improved (Thanks Blue Avenger!). The trigger is the Timney unit which I installed and set at 2 1/4 pounds. The Timney trigger is absolutely clean, crisp and creep free! After installing and using both Rifle Basix triggers (SAV 1&2) and the Timney, the Timney is in my opinion the best of the three. It wont adjust as low as the SAV 2 but for a hunting rig, its perfect. I apologize for not having any before groups to show you......once I got the new rifle home, I couldnt wait to take it apart! To get a quick start on fireforming brass, I picked up a 40rnd. box of Winchester 45g JHP 223 rem. ammo. The chronograph said these rounds average about 3,300 fps while fireforming cases. The factory ammo shot quite well in less than perfect conditions and produced brass with very nice, sharp shoulders. My first reload with this rifle was with the 50g Nosler Ballistic tip, H4895, and Fed GM205M primers all set inside Winchester brass. After some tweaking, this load proved to be very accurate and fairly fast! (insert 50gBT.jpg) This load routinely puts five rounds in less than inch at 100 yards. At an average speed of 3633 fps, this load should prove deadly on our midwest coyotes.
In conclusion, the Duramaxx is a wonderful upgrade to the factory Savage stock. Even if it has some drawbacks, with a little time and effort it can be a very stable platform for any Savage rifle. If I can do this, I promise that anyone who can change their own oil can do it too! Bedding a rifle is fairly simple.....read the instructions carefully and with some time, effort and patience, you too can make the Duramaxx better! Please note that I have omitted several very important steps in the bedding process......read your instructions carefully and take a look at Lefty223's article. Thanks to all of the members and staff of SavageShooters for allowing me to share my experience with you. I hope this article was able to give back some of the great knowledge that I have attained while being a member of this wonderful sight! As always, please be safe and shoot straight!
-Steven Trapp (trappst)
Click images for full-size view
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3-1
Figure 3-2
Figure 4
Figure 5
Figure 6
Figure 7
Figure 8-1
Figure 8-2
Figure 9
Figure 10
Figure 11
Figure 12
Figure 13
Figure 14
Figure 15
Figure 16
Figure 17
Figure 18
Final 50gr Nosler BT Group
The Direct URL for this article is:
http://savageshooters.com/index.php?articleview=A Look into Improving the Duramaxx
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I bedTinkering with Ten Thumbs!
A Look into Improving the Duramaxx
By Steven Trapp (trappst)
First, a little bit about myself. My name is Steven Trapp (trappst), currently Im 29 years old and live in rural east-central Illinois. I began hunting at an early age, but I started reloading and shooting center-fire rifles (with a passion) in 2000. My first center-fire was a Ruger M77 Mark II VT in 22-250 rem. It was a beautiful rifle but I was only able to hit the 5 shot .5" mark (at times!) with reloads that were too long for the magazine due to the excessively long throat. After seeing the adds for the new Accutrigger, I sold the Ruger and bought a Savage 12 FVSS in 22-250 rem. That is when it all started! The new Savage was beating the Ruger in accuracy right out of the box....with FACTORY AMMO! A friend of mine told me about an email shooting competition and after logging in, I was hooked! Before coming to SavageShooters a couple years ago, I had no idea barrel swaps were possible and I had no clue what Go and No-Go gauges were used for! Im not a technical guy and when it comes to hands on projects, I normally have ten thumbs instead of two! To think, in just a couple years I now have 5 actions, 7 barrels (more to come) and countless stocks. Im now able to swap barrels with ease, bed a rifle action, and I make some pretty good reloads! Granted, I dont shoot in any formal competitions and Im not what you might call a benchrest shooter but I can still hold my own with the equipment I have.
Now, for the meat n taters of this article! Im sure you are all aware of the flimsy nature of the factory synthetic stock that comes on some Savage models.....you should be, weve been over this a thousand times! The great thing about the flimsy factory stock is that it works while keeping the price down. There are however, several very nice upgrades available to the consumer. The stock that this article will be focusing on is the Duramaxx. The Duramaxx is available in a variety of colors through several sources but I have purchased two from MidwayUSA.com. The first was tan with black webbing and the most recent is olive drab with black webbing. If you are able to find them on sale, they are a great buy....I think I got my most recent one for around $80. No, they arent a high dollar custom stock but they are a big improvement over the factory tupperware. The first thing you will notice is the improvement in rigidity throughout the entire stock. This allows the stock to ride bags a little better and drastically improves shooting when using a bipod. In addition, they come with an actual recoil pad instead of the factory installed hockey puck. One of the main features I love is the fact that the stock comes with aluminum pillar bedding just like the factory piece. The stock is made for a heavy barrel but I have used them with sporter barrels with success.....the gap is just a little bigger. As this is not a review of the Duramaxx, I will get to the point and let all of you decide if the Duramaxx is worth the money.
As some of you may know, the Duramaxx is designed to be a drop in fit for the Savage action, and normally it is. You may have to make a small modification for an Accutrigger model but for the most part, they drop right in. However, there can be problems! The main problem I have encountered and the one I will be concentrating on is the contact points that can be present between the action and stock. The areas that I have seen in the two stocks I have are as follows: uneven contact on front pillar, contact along side of action in the magazine area, uneven contact on rear pillar and normally heavy contact in the tang area. (see Figure 1) Ive found this contact to cause flyers and enlarged groups, especially with a harder recoiling rifle. In addition, as the contact points wear it may cause a drastic shift in point of impact. My model 12 shifted 3 inches low and 2 inches right after about 100 rounds. As you know, the Savage action was designed to have a floating tang area and when there is contact, it can adversely affect accuracy. One of the easiest ways to fix this problem is by using some 100 grit sandpaper. After shooting my model 12, I removed the stock to adjust the trigger and found shiny spots in the areas that I noted above. Using the sandpaper, I sanded those areas to remove the paint and primer. Usually, this is plenty to allow clearance but there may be times where a little more material will have to be removed. After sanding for about 10 minutes, I placed the action in the stock and checked for contact by running a piece of paper in between the action and stock. (see Figure 13) Instead of continually removing and replacing the action bolts, I got some 3 long 1/4" x 28 bolts from the local hardware store (cut the heads off) to help align the action in the stock. As you can see in the photo, I wrap the bolts with 3M tape to ensure the bolts are centered in the pillars. (see Figure 2) As I sanded, I used a trial and error approach as I didnt want to remove any more material than was necessary. As I worked, I would check for contact with a piece of paper and note any contact on a piece of 3M tape that was placed on the stock. Once satisfied with my work, I went back over the sanded areas with a fine sandpaper to smooth things out. As you can see from Figures 3-1 and 3-2, by relieving these contact areas my model 12 began to shoot much tighter than it had. If you look closely at the groups, youll notice some horizontal stringing. One other problem that has occurred is that the action will normally be slightly pushed to one side in the stock. My Model 12 had this problem which was causing the stock to contact the trigger group. This contact was making the trigger to be very inconsistent - it went from about 1 pounds to about 10 ounces!. At times, the trigger would function normally but at times the darn thing would break at 10 ounces. Talk about a shock to the system! Some light sanding around the front pillar helped the problem but I have to be very careful while assembling the rifle to ensure the trigger group isnt contacting the stock. I have plans on bedding my model 12 which should completely solve this and the stringing problem.
Since the above modifications worked well with my model 12, I decided to use the same methods for my Stevens 200, but take things a bit farther. I purchased another Stevens 200, this time in 223, for the sole purpose of building a 223 Ackley Improved. After bringing the rifle home, I immediately took the rifle apart and installed a Timney trigger, new bolt handle and replaced the plastic trigger guard with a metal one. I then removed the factory barrel and began the sanding process explained above. For this rifle, I chose to use the olive drab with black webbing colored Duramaxx. I was able to relieve the contact areas very easily but there were a few spots (tang, mag area) that required a bit more sanding than usual (see Figure 4). Once finished, I decided to complete the project by bedding the action with Miles Gilbert Bedrock. I have had very good success with Bedrock and I love the microballoons.....the ability to change the consistency is a huge plus in some areas.
After removing the contact points, my first step in bedding was to check the areas in the stock where the action was making contact with the pillars. To accomplish this, I used some Miles Gilbert Inletting (see Figure 5). By applying the inletting to the action and then setting the action into the stock (and securing), the material is transferred to the stock and you are able to tell exactly where material needs to be removed. A little note here: the inletting I used was very thick and tacky and a real pain to remove. It worked, but I would recommend using something else (marker or white-out maybe?). As you can see in the photo, the contact on the front pillar was hit and miss while the rear pillar was contacting very well. (see Figure 6) For removing material in a synthetic stock, there is nothing better than the good ole Dremel! I chose to remove about 1/8" of material on top of the pillars and a good portion around the recoil lug area. The recoil lug ([beeep] lug used) is the key......if bedding is done properly, all of the recoil should be absorbed here and not elsewhere in the stock. As you can see, I did not remove material for the entire width of the recoil lug but the relief does extend to the bottom of the pillar. Also, I chose to bed the area in front of the recoil lug. If this is done, make sure to use a couple layers of tape when covering the front and sides of the recoil lug (do not tape the rear surface) (see Figure 7). I also used several layers of tape on the barrel nut and first few inches of the barrel to ensure there is no contact in these areas. In addition, make certain that there is no contact between the bottom of the recoil lug and stock. Note that I also filled the holes on each side of the front pillar. (see Figure 12) I used a small amount of Bedrock to fill these holes prior to bedding the rifle. By filling the holes in a separate step, I was able to sand the areas to ensure a flush surface. Removal of material is very straight forward and made simple by using the inletting (or a version of) and a Dremel. (Figures 8-1, 8-2) Tip: When using a Dremel, please wear eye protection and a face mask doesnt hurt either. Some types of synthetic stocks can be very irritating to the eyes and lungs!
I am not going to go into great detail on the bedding process as the instructions supplied with Bedrock are VERY good. In addition, most of my process was taken from the article Stock Bedding 101" written by Lefty223 which is on the homepage. Lefty223 does a fabulous job in his article and it is well worth your time. I will however pass along a few more tips and photographs. Once you have the material removed, its time to prep the action. I prefer to remove the scope, bases, rings and trigger group.....just to be safe. I do NOT remove the magazine box. Removal of the mag box would make things a little easier, but I find that trying to get those darn things off and on isnt worth the trouble! Clean the action well to remove any oils or solvent that may inhibit the release agent....this is a MUST!!! Once you get the action cleaned, tape off or fill (modeling clay) any areas on the action that may create a mechanical lock (mainly the trigger area)(see Figure 15). Now that the action is ready, youll need to block off the areas in the stock where you dont want the bedding to go. For this, modeling clay can be used but I prefer to use play dough......Ive found modeling clay to be a pain to completely remove from synthetic stocks. (see Figures 9 & 10) If you use play dough, be sure to bed the rifle soon after as the play dough will shrink as it dries out. For release agent, I use the stuff that comes with Bedrock. I apply one coat, let it dry and then apply another generous coat. Ive also used Pam cooking spray with success in the past. Just make sure you coat the action well!! (see Figure 16)
Once you get everything prepped, its time to bed! Mixing the bedding is straight forward but at the same time the amount of bedding can be critical. You want to have enough but you dont want too much.....here is where a trail run with play dough in place of the bedding can be a real life saver. It takes a little time, but it will give you a great idea of how much bedding material to put in the relieved areas. If you choose to do a trial run, rough up any surfaces that were covered in play dough to ensure the bedding compound will stick.
Once you get the bedding compound in the stock, its time to very gently set the barreled action in place. There are two methods here: One is to use the regular action screws and turn them into place after setting the action. The other (my preferred method) is to use the bolts mentioned earlier. I really feel this method allows less disturbance to the bedding and makes for a cleaner finished product. By using the long bolts, it allows the action to be set in the bedding with minimal movement and ensures the action is in the right place, the FIRST time. By using tape on the bolts, it ensures the bolts are centered and not making contact on the aluminum pillars. I also use tape on the barrel at the end of the stock to keep the barrel centered (the whole off center action thing)(see Figure 14). After setting the action in the stock and ensuring its in the right place, I use electrical tape to secure the action in place......the supplied tubing works too but I prefer the tape.(see Figure 11) If you are bedding a rifle with a heavy barrel, make sure the action is securely held on the rear pillar. The extra weight of the barrel can cause the action to tip forward, causing problems with the contact on the rear pillar. After everything is set where you want it, make sure to clean up any bedding that may have seeped out while setting the action.
Now its time to wait! Follow the instructions on cure time and DO NOT mess with the action!!!!! I use a Tipton gun vise to hold the stock and I also use a level to ensure the stock is not tilted in any way (very important). After the bedding has had sufficient time to cure, removal is normally straight forward.......this will all depend on your prep work! I will normally place a dowel rod in the action and lift the action straight up by using the dowel and barrel as handles. You may need to tap on the sides of the stock to get it freed up but I have yet to get one stuck! After removing the action, there may be areas within the stock where the bedding seeped out. I just use a Dremel or small hobby knife to clean these areas up......it makes the job look neater! (see Figure 17). As seen in Figure 18, air pockets can cause small voids in the bedding material. Small voids arent a real problem, but larger ones should be filled with more material. Once you have everything touched up, clean the stock and action and prepare to reassemble. Check everywhere on the action and stock to make certain you didnt forget something! Mount your bases, rings and scope and head off to the range. Before firing that first shot, make sure everything is in good working order and functioning properly. Lastly, please check the bore for any obstructions.....just to be safe, it wouldnt hurt to quickly clean the bore!
The Finished Product
Once completed, I chose to mount Burris 2pc. tactical bases with Burris medium Sig. Zee rings. For glass, I normally use Burris Optics but for this project I chose to use the Nikon Buckmaster 6-18x40 SF with Nikoplex reticle. The barrel on this rifle is an Adams and Bennett heavy barrel, 24" 1:14 twist chambered for the 223 Ackley Improved (Thanks Blue Avenger!). The trigger is the Timney unit which I installed and set at 2 1/4 pounds. The Timney trigger is absolutely clean, crisp and creep free! After installing and using both Rifle Basix triggers (SAV 1&2) and the Timney, the Timney is in my opinion the best of the three. It wont adjust as low as the SAV 2 but for a hunting rig, its perfect. I apologize for not having any before groups to show you......once I got the new rifle home, I couldnt wait to take it apart! To get a quick start on fireforming brass, I picked up a 40rnd. box of Winchester 45g JHP 223 rem. ammo. The chronograph said these rounds average about 3,300 fps while fireforming cases. The factory ammo shot quite well in less than perfect conditions and produced brass with very nice, sharp shoulders. My first reload with this rifle was with the 50g Nosler Ballistic tip, H4895, and Fed GM205M primers all set inside Winchester brass. After some tweaking, this load proved to be very accurate and fairly fast! (insert 50gBT.jpg) This load routinely puts five rounds in less than inch at 100 yards. At an average speed of 3633 fps, this load should prove deadly on our midwest coyotes.
In conclusion, the Duramaxx is a wonderful upgrade to the factory Savage stock. Even if it has some drawbacks, with a little time and effort it can be a very stable platform for any Savage rifle. If I can do this, I promise that anyone who can change their own oil can do it too! Bedding a rifle is fairly simple.....read the instructions carefully and with some time, effort and patience, you too can make the Duramaxx better! Please note that I have omitted several very important steps in the bedding process......read your instructions carefully and take a look at Lefty223's article. Thanks to all of the members and staff of SavageShooters for allowing me to share my experience with you. I hope this article was able to give back some of the great knowledge that I have attained while being a member of this wonderful sight! As always, please be safe and shoot straight!
-Steven Trapp (trappst)
Click images for full-size view
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3-1
Figure 3-2
Figure 4
Figure 5
Figure 6
Figure 7
Figure 8-1
Figure 8-2
Figure 9
Figure 10
Figure 11
Figure 12
Figure 13
Figure 14
Figure 15
Figure 16
Figure 17
Figure 18
Final 50gr Nosler BT Group
The Direct URL for this article is:
http://savageshooters.com/index.php?articleview=A Look into Improving the Duramaxx
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skb,
Were the guns you bedded Savages? Bedding the tang of a Savage is useless and can cause a pressure point back past the action screws. Savages rear action screw is in front of the trigger and the tang area should be free floated.
This is from a post from above
Savage rifle tang check:
Before you remove the action from stock, check the tang area. Unlike other rifles that have a stock bolt into the rear tang, the Savage rifle needs 0.010 to 0.030 clearance all the way around. With wood stocks I try for the closer tolerance. If you get interference before you bed, you may want to relieve a bit now, or at least be prepared to check this area once you apply the epoxy. You do have some working time
Were the guns you bedded Savages? Bedding the tang of a Savage is useless and can cause a pressure point back past the action screws. Savages rear action screw is in front of the trigger and the tang area should be free floated.
This is from a post from above
Savage rifle tang check:
Before you remove the action from stock, check the tang area. Unlike other rifles that have a stock bolt into the rear tang, the Savage rifle needs 0.010 to 0.030 clearance all the way around. With wood stocks I try for the closer tolerance. If you get interference before you bed, you may want to relieve a bit now, or at least be prepared to check this area once you apply the epoxy. You do have some working time