Trigger over travel on a Colt AR 15

flyrodder

New member
I've installed reduced power springs in my AR to improve the trigger pull and am wanting to reduce the trigger over travel as well. Will it work to put a shim between the front bottom of the trigger and the bottom of the lower receiver to help reduce the over travel?
Thanks, Flyrodder
 
Are you wanting to bump fire or something?? Im not sure why you would want to reduce the follow through of the trigger.....If that is what you are talking about??

If you are talking about taking up the play in the trigger before it releases, then no it will not do anything.
 
Look at putting the shim on the flat of the safety. You might build it up with JB Weld and file it down until it works.

See where I'm talking about?
 
Ok here is a picture of where you can weld, jb weld, or set screw on the trigger to remove travel of the trigger. Once you weld or whatever you want you need to file it down.
 
Originally Posted By: shephermOk here is a picture of where you can weld, jb weld, or set screw on the trigger to remove travel of the trigger. Once you weld or whatever you want you need to file it down.


I was thinking about putting the shim on the opposite end and the same side as the red dot. The spot in front of and same side as the trigger. I guess I'm trying to get a trigger closer to my Rem 700. When the hammer falls, the trigger stops. Has anyone tried this? Thanks for the replies.
Flyrodder
 
Quote:The spot in front of and same side as the trigger.



Without tearing mine down, I can't say for sure. It sounds logical, though. I've got a Jewell trigger in one AR, and that's what they're using for an overtravel adjustment location (setscrew). The parts are all different, though, it doesn't use any standard AR components (all stainless).

Did you see what I was talking about with modifying the trigger/safety spacing? I still think that would work okay.

There are a couple ways to cure the problem, actually.
 
If you put it on the other end it might not let the hammer release. These don't work like the rem 700s but you can try it you will just have to play around with it. If you weld on the red dot it will take almost all the pre travel out of the trigger which is how you get it to break like glass.
 
Quote:If you put it on the other end it might not let the hammer release.

I realize that. It still has to disconnect from the sear, and there's not a whole lot of overtravel past that point, anyway (on my stock trigger).

I don't feel the need to do it, I was just giving some ideas.
wink.gif


Mine may not even be the "best" ideas, and I'm not claiming they are.
 
Originally Posted By: Evil_Lurker
I realize that. It still has to disconnect from the sear, and there's not a whole lot of overtravel past that point, anyway (on my stock trigger).


Sorry Evil Lurker my reply was to flyrodder.

Originally Posted By: Evil_Lurker
I don't feel the need to do it, I was just giving some ideas.
wink.gif



I agree the over travel is not a big deal to me.

Originally Posted By: Evil_Lurker
Mine may not even be the "best" ideas, and I'm not claiming they are.

Well your idea for taking out the rest of the travel is very good. Like you said, I don't know that their is much travel to take up after disconnect but this is a way to fix it.

Flyrodder- I know you said over travel but;

If it was my trigger I would take care of the before disconnect by welding on the red dot (this is where it will affect your accuracy by way of trigger pull). Then if it still had too much travel (I don’t think it will have much) you can do yours or Evil_Lurkers idea and they should both work fine.

Hope this helps
 
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