help new reloaders

Ok thank you for the prompt attention. I'm coming home in a few days for r and r maybe I'll pick up a couple books. I'll be at cabelas anyways. The wifey said i can buy a new predator rig, I'll be looking at the Tikka t3, Howa ranchland or a savage in .243. Those are the rifles I have narrowed down to seems like they are about neck and neck so I'm going to go shoulder a few and see what fit and finish I like as well as how it shoulders for me.
 
Hey S1ngl3shot:

Don't know if you noticed but I provided you a reloading tool shopping list per your previous to last post, so take it with you when you go to Cabelas as you're spending bucks there anyway...they sell some of the list items.
 
I have been reloading for over 30 years. This is all good advice that is being given.
Just hope that the new reloaders will follow some of it, and not be the guy that knows everything!

Good Hunting!
 
This has been an excellent read. I am relatively new to reloading, and brand new to this site. Great advice folks!

One topic I haven't seen be addressed yet in this thread is the question of how many times can you "safely" reload your brass. Are there any good rules of thumb on this?

I reload for 22 hornet, 222/223 rem, 204 ruger, 243 win. So what does everyone think - 10 times for the hornet, 5 for 222/223 class calibers, and maybe just 3 for other speedier (magnum type) rounds?

When I first began to research reloading, I decided I would:
1) buy factory ammo first for each new rifle
2) neck size only then
3) and invest in some better quality seater dies

So I get a Lee Deluxe Die kit which gives me a full length sizing option as well as a collet neck sizer die, plus a shell holder that you always need anyway. But then I like seater dies with a micrometer so that I can get my COL's really precise and minimize bullet runout.

In buying factory ammo initially, I build up a supply of perfectly fire formed brass, determine what type of bullets my gun prefers, get some idea about acceptable COL maximums (without pushing this 'seat to the lands' idea and getting myself into trouble with potentially huge pressure spikes).

I don't crimp, and I do neck size like I say - so both of these should help improve my case life. But I am looking for a good rule of thumb on when I should destroy reused brass... not push it to reload them "one more time" that ends up messing me up then.

In my first two years at this most enjoyable hobby I do have one incident to report which I have never fully been able to explain, so I will throw it out here now for everyone's consideration and comment and maybe this will generate some other ideas on "best practices" for all to benefit from.

First let me say that I did catch myself once putting Rem 6 1/2 primers (for my hornet) into my 222 rem casings (that should have been getting Rem 7 1/2 BR primers instead!), so it is definitely key to keep stuff separated. It is also key I believe to not be distracted as several others have mentioned, and to "divide and conquer" - break your steps down into whatever is a manageable block of time for you personally based on everything else you may have going on. So for example I'll clean my brass one day, deprime and neck size another, debur and chamfer the next sitting, measure and sort another, then prime everything the next chance I get, then charge & seat, etc. But on this one occasion I was reloading a charge that I had developed back in winter time for my 222 rem.

So a winter time 'max load' charge (that was VERY accurate) that...
Shot fine all throughout the winter.
Shot fine in Spring and early Summer.
Shot fine in later Summer then again also.
But on one shot while in the field - on a hot/humid day, a casing actually expanded against my bolt face and would not eject. Needless to say, my hunt ended early!

There are so many variables in this business. Was it truly a 'max load' issue? The local gunsmith fired more of my handloads just fine after replacing my ejector. Was it the heat of that particular day? Would a 6 1/2 where a 7 1/2 belonged have done this to me? Defective primer perhaps? Loose primer pocket maybe? Flash hole that wasn't completely clean when I reprimed? I did notice that the bolt was a little tight on that particular round when I went to chamber it up - so could my case length have been suspect?, or would a shoulder not have been bumped back properly due to neck sizing only?

I use a Rockchucker press, an RCBS digital caliper, a 5-0-5 scale where every charge is weighed to being as close to perfection as I can get them. So I feel my equipment is more than adequate.

The smith did say that on occasion you can get a powder buildup on these smaller calibers that doesn't get cleaned out when using a bore guide (as I do before every load development session) where the guide of course takes you right up to the chamber and doesn't help you clean around the outside walls of the chamber. Does that make any sense to you all?

Anyway, this little "situation" still haunts me to this day and although the varmint I was aiming at died that afternoon (the desired result) - and I didn't get hurt, and was only set back a little $$ in the big picture of things, well... the worst part of it all is not knowing what exactly I did wrong. Was it a casing that had simply been reloaded too many times? How do you know how many times is too many times??
 
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In my experience, you can get a lot more loadings on a 223 and 243 case than the numbers you mention.

For one thing, in general I don't think you should ever shoot a load in the summer that was a max load in the winter. Hodgdon extruded powders may be the exception to this, but you'd be much safer working up the load again when it gets hot. Even the Hodgdon powders show some temp sensitivity.

Another thing you mentioned is your reloading routine. I was just telling this to a guy at work today, I NEVER seat primers in cases unless I am ready to charge with powder and seat a bullet right then. It's just too easy to put a different primer in that case and then forget what you did or why you did it the next session. What you're doing is worse than a simple distraction.
 
i've got a hornady lock-n-load kit and a set of 204 dies that i have had for two month's, after reading some of these posts, probably stick w/ factory ammo!!!
 
So how many loadings, on average - for 222, 204, or 243 whatever experiences you have to share? That's the question.

My "max load" was a 20.5 of 4198 with a 50gr bullet in the case of the .222 rem. So a "book max", not something unique and extra "ify" that only I had ever tried, and in winter. Tell me how many people out there haven't tried this load before! Come on guys.

And on the primer thing, is a 6 1/2 way different from say a CCI 400 which people also pretty commonly use in 222 rem. ? Your point on "process" though is well taken 1stpitch.
 
I have always wanted to get into reloading and got the chance last year when I had a family member give me his old reloading equipment. Press, scale, .223 brass,primers powder the whole works. The first thing I did was READ the manuals he provided, he wanted me to call if I had any questions. Well to make a long story short, my first attempts went along smoothly except..I did'nt have a caliper to measure the overall length, so just seated the bullet down till it was the same length as a factory round...doing this by sight alone..scary stuff now that I think back. After completeing each round I would chamber each round to make shur the bolt closed. I know some of you are shuddering reading this..myself included. I would HIGHLY recommend anyone thats getting into reloading to have a experienced mentor to take you threw those first couple of rounds. Lots of good info on this thread, Be Safe!!
 
sbranden,,,, +1 on this advice..
Quote:For one thing, in general I don't think you should ever shoot a load in the summer that was a max load in the winter. Hodgdon extruded powders may be the exception to this, but you'd be much safer working up the load again when it gets hot. Even the Hodgdon powders show some temp sensitivity.

I learned from experience when I first got into shooting Prairie Dogs and started reloading for my .204s...I loaded some in February and March, trying to get ready for a trip West in June..

Just the difference in temperature cause some tight bolt situations and I don't load "max. loads".... I'm not sure if the difference in elevations may have been a factor as well.,,.. But sitting in sun for hours shooting can allow your ammo to change properties to a degree.

Now, I prep my brass during the Winter months and don't charge the cases until right before I'm ready to leave (it really doesn't take that much time)...We also store our ammo in cheap styrofoam coolers to cut down the probability of rapid temperature changes..
 
Read up on the caliber you want to reload before you do anything and be sure of what can be expected from it. I use the low end of the scale when reloading and have always been happy with the results. When you do start reloading, distractions are your enemy. If in doubt, pour it out, and start again. A re-do is better than gun parts in your face.
 
I just bought a R-15 223 want to know what bullet type to use fot coyote.
I am going to reload . just need a good bullet type.
 
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Originally Posted By: sbrandenSo how many loadings, on average - for 222, 204, or 243 whatever experiences you have to share? That's the question.

My "max load" was a 20.5 of 4198 with a 50gr bullet in the case of the .222 rem. So a "book max", not something unique and extra "ify" that only I had ever tried, and in winter. Tell me how many people out there haven't tried this load before! Come on guys.

And on the primer thing, is a 6 1/2 way different from say a CCI 400 which people also pretty commonly use in 222 rem. ? Your point on "process" though is well taken 1stpitch.


Branden:

Typically, you can expect 6-10 loadings...however, this varies due to how "hot" the loads, how tight/sloppy the chamber is [although the chamber is within the 6-7 thousandths range of SAMMI specs], whether you neck size only and full length re-size on the 4/5th reloading, how old the brass is....etc.

For the .222, the case necks are on the thin side, so sometimes they split before other calibers....

As a rule, I have a max of 1 grain below the manual max, and sometimes at 2 grains under the book max if accuracy and killing power is there anyway...that provides an additional pressure safety margin.

I work up my "maximum" i.e. hunting loads in the hot summer months of OH and thus, they are fine all year around. Consider powders that are NOT temperature sensitive...the relatively new ramshot line is one...XTerminator shoots great in the .222 and .223 (I load for both) Western powders which owns Ramshot and Alliant, have a very comprehensive, and FREE reloading manual with lab tested loads... so call or email them...they are great folks there at Western and will mail it in a day/two of speaking with you.

As to primers, I have stuck with CCIs over the years cause they were always available when I started reloading back in 1983. But, all brands are good.
 
Been reloading 243, 270,30-30 & 300winmag for years but just bought my first 223. Bullet diameters have me a bid confused. I assume .222 diameter is a 222 swift, .223 is Rem and .224 is a Weatherby. I see very small assortment of .223 bullets listed and lots of .224. Does the .223 AR-15 shoot only the .223 bullets or does it shoot the .224 bullets.
 
Nic 58 makes a very good point and I will repeat it. Whatever you do, keep your mind on what you are doing. No wife distractions, no kids, no animals, just you and your reloading bench.

And always, always establish a defined routine and perform your various reloading steps in the same manner, every time. Check your simple beam scale for accuracy (zero adjust and weight setting) frequently and do not rely on the accuracy of electronic scales. Electronic scale accuracy can be effected by static electricity, fluorescent lights, ambient temperature, magnetic fields and other influences.

Keep a pad and pen handy and record all of the details of everything you do when building a load. Number your recipes and number your targets before going to the range. Test and record all results and file your 8.5 X 11 targets in a loose leaf binder for reference later.

Use care when handling primers and if a primer gets stuck somewhere, be very careful when removing it, especially if it is in close proximity to other primers.

Lyman has a pretty good basic reloading book. Buy it and read it. Lastly, you don't need to buy all of the big bucks brands of stuff. Lee makes a very inexpensive powder measure that is accurate and their Lee Auto-Prime tool works great too. Many of my die sets are from Lee and I have built very accurate rounds from them.

Don't always strive for the hottest load. Most times, the more moderate loads are the most accurate. They are a lot easier on your rifle barrel's throat too.
 
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Handloading for Competition (making the target bigger) by Glen Zediker is a must have. So is Precision Reloading and Shooting Handbook by Fred Sinclair (Sinclair Intl.) Get a Loadbooks USA for your caliber in addition to a few reloading manuals. Lots to swallow there for a new-bee but great reference material. I say if at all possible, have someone show you how to reload first to get the basics. I like keeping a detailed journal as well as an Excel spreadsheet to document load success as well as other things like Trim-to-length, Headspace, Seating depth, COAL, etc. I bought a labeler and label the trim lengths on my trimmer for all my calibers, same with die slots for my Redding T-7, powder bottles, bullet/tool bins. Great advice on never throwing away test targets. Big mistake, almost as bad as selling a gun and wishing you had it back!
 
Alot of great posts here. i just purchased my reloading rig last night. I will be doing a lot of reading before i get going here and am sure I will have questions,but it looks like i wont have a hard time finding the answers.
 
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