After Market Triggers ... which one?

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StopEmDead

New member
Hello everyone

I would like to know which trigger you guys feel is the best (Timney, or Shilen) and at what pound pull? I have a Remington Model 700 BDL chambered for 22-250 ... it shoots under 1 MOA all the time, but I feel that I can better that by quite a bit with a better trigger set at a lower pound pull ... say 3 or so ... what do you guys think?

Thanks in advance.



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Steve
 
By the way ... I'm not really new to this message board ... my old name was RemRexAnotherDay. Just to clarify things.
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Thanks again, and I am willing to hear both positive and negative things about replacing the factory trigger and lowering the pound pull of the trigger.

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Steve
 
For a 3 lb. pull, there isn't any reason to replace the factory trigger. Any competent 'smith can safely adjust a 700 trigger to a crisp clean 3 lb's. A "good" 'smith can safely get one quite a bit lower than that.

That said, the Shilen is a nicer trigger than the Timney in my opinion (and the Jewel is a lot nicer than either...).

- DAA
 
I can get any Remington 600, 660 0r 700 down to 1¼ pounds, with a little effort. Haven't looked at that new one, but Dave is right, three pounds shouldn't be any problem at all, no creep or overtravel. I wouldn't bother with an aftermarket trigger for that application.

Good hunting. LB
 
I agree with Leonard,I have a 700 .22-250 had it lightened to about 2 pounds.It has really worked great took alittle getting used to after shooting it at 6 or 7 pound but it definitely shoots tighter groups now.
 
I would suggest that you get a competent smith for the job. My brother had a 700 that he lowered the pull weight on and it fired on him at the range when he set it down on it's butt. Hole in the roof and a scared shooter to boot.
 
No offense, Christopher. Your brother, or anyone else, shouldn't be tinkering if he doesn't understand how that trigger functions.
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When I finish a trigger on a hunting gun, I do two important tests. First, you need to ram the butt down against something solid, like hard rubber, (or a roll of carpet) so as not to damage a hard buttplate. Enough force to simulate recoil, fifteen to twenty pounds. The sear must hold. Secondly, slam the bolt forward and down as fast and as hard as possible. Without ammunition. Again, the sear must hold and stay cocked.

These are your limitations. If you can't get the weight you desire, it gets a little more involved, but the factory Remington trigger will hold, with the weight adjusted to well under two pounds, done properly.

I have had some difficulty explaining what I wanted in a trigger, so I just do it myself. There is kind of a trick to it, but once you figure it out, it's a simple, step by step procedure.

Man, do I hate those two stage triggers on the Ruger Mark II! Designed by a lawyer.

Good hunting. LB
 
Thanks guys. From what I gather I would be further ahead adjusting the factory trigger ... this rifle is a shooter now, but feel it will be awesome with a littler trigger. It is only used for hunting and I personally don't want it lower than 3 so I will call my gun smith right away.

Thanks again, I love the knowledge that this board gives.



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Steve
 
I replaced my Rem 700 trigger with a Kipplinger single set trigger. Had my smith set the regular pull to 2 pounds and the set position its about 4 ounces.

Total cost was $175 bucks if I remember right. I have never been sorry.

Pecos
 
I have several 700s, all set at 20 ounces. (A trigger scale is a good purchase.) Set 'em myself. With no scope on gun, cock and bounce off carpet real hard. Then smack the muzzle with a large rubber mallet. Repeat a couple times. If it won't drop the pin, it is safe.

It it won't set at 20 oz safely, and have a consistent pull, then the sear is rough, and I send it for a trigger job, $25, and that cures it.

Any time I pick up one of my 700s, I know what the trigger will be like, as they are all the same.

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Critr

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www.SaguaroSafaris.com
 
Just a note on testing your trigger work. I do as Leonard has described. Have had a couple of stocks either nice enough or with butt plates ornate enough that I didn't want to bounce them as hard as I prefer for safety checking. So instead, with the stock removed and the barrelled action clamped in a vise I hit the tang with a plastic or rawhide mallet. Have found I can make the sear break this way when it will hold against slamming the butt.

Likewise, try tapping the bridge of the rec'ver with the plastic mallet (scope removed of course). Might scare you how easy some triggers can be made to go off this way. Even if they pass the butt slamming, bolt slamming and other tests. ESPECIALLY SAVAGE TRIGGERS! Real scary how light of a tap on the bridge it takes to release the sear on one. This is of course due to the design of the Savage trigger, the position and inertia of the trigger are such that it is really prone to A.D. if jarred on the top like that. Try it sometime, you'll see what I mean, a 3lb Savage factory trigger won't hold against even a light tap on top of the action - at least none I've ever worked with. 700 triggers can safely be worked much lighter.

- DAA
 
Hello,
Does Kipplinger have a web site?

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Safety,Ethics, Accuracy, Velocity, Energy-I am On the Way to the Arizona Predator Hunt!!!!!!
 
DAA, thanks for the great advice! Both from an accuracy standpoint and from a gun safety standpoint. Great info. I am going to burn a copy of this post. Thanks again! Wiley E
 
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