Barrel worn out?

daisy2007

New member
I have a Ruger M77 22-250. (Older model, Tang Safety)
I think that the barrel and/or throat may be getting bad on it but I don't know what to look for? I was hoping to get some insight as to what to look for? Or should I just take it to a gun smith and have them look at it?
I don't know the round count on the gun but I would imagine it to be a lot. It has definitely seen lots of trigger time.
 
You need to look in there with a borscope to really know if it's shot out or not.

If it is, it will have a worn scaley looking appearance due to thermal shock errosion of the throat. It may continue up the bore for an inch or more. Sort of like a really tiny version of the pattern of scaley cracks you some times see in the bottom of dried up puddles.

Fitch
 
I knew I would need to use the bore scope to check the bore and the throat. I just didn't know exactly what I would be looking for. Thanks for the good explanation.
 
daisy2007...thru a borescope the surface will resemble a muddy wash after runoff & 2days in the sun (all cracked in irregular shapes)....or an alligator hide...what makes ya think the barrel is bad?...what's ur history with it? (i take it's a used acquisition)
 
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A friend had a 220 swift that he thought he had shot out. After I mined the copper deposits out, it shoots 3/8" five shot groups consistently @ 100 meters.
Just a FYI,
Mark
 
Originally Posted By: Chapped Lipsdaisy2007...thru a borescope the surface will resemble a muddy wash after runoff & 2days in the sun (all cracked in irregular shapes)....or an alligator hide...what makes ya think the barrel is bad?...what's ur history with it? (i take it's a used acquisition)

You are right, it was a used acquisition. The reason for the question is that the last time I was out the gun seemed to shoot very sporadic. I have been working up some loads for the gun. I had a couple loads that I wanted to shoot again because they had shot pretty good on the first testing. So I had them loaded up and went out to the range. They seemed to shoot very inconsistent, and the time before they had shot much better. And some of them would group good and then I would have a few crappy ones. I was just getting a little worried that my barrel may be getting bad. I could have been something I did during reloading, but I honestly don't think that is what it was. I did the same exact thing I did for the previous loads that shot good.
 
Clean the [beeep] out of it with a good copper cleaner ( I'm really fond of Sweets) and then let us know what happens. I would look there before anywhere else. Especially since you said it shot well the last time out. Erosion is a prolonged effect, it doesn't just happen overnight
 
Originally Posted By: JBPrecisionClean the [beeep] out of it with a good copper cleaner ( I'm really fond of Sweets) and then let us know what happens. I would look there before anywhere else. Especially since you said it shot well the last time out. Erosion is a prolonged effect, it doesn't just happen overnight +1
 
I always clean my guns well. But I did go today and get some cooper solvent. I will give it a thorough cleaning and try it again.
 
Well I spent quite awhile cleaning the heck out of my rifle last night. I did get a lot of copper fowling coming out of the barrel. So maybe that will help. I don't have a bore scope so I couldn't get the best look down the tube, but from what I could tell there didn't look like any significant damage. Hopefully it will shoot better now.
 
It took me 2 weeks ( off & on ) to get the copper out of my buddy's rifle ! Kind of alternated Sweet's, Hoppe's #9, and JB compound. It was worth it !!
Mark
 
Originally Posted By: mark shubertIt took me 2 weeks ( off & on ) to get the copper out of my buddy's rifle ! Kind of alternated Sweet's, Hoppe's #9, and JB compound. It was worth it !!
Mark

I think your approach is as good as it gets.
I have a Ruger M-77 in 257 Roberts that had its accuracy go BAD, spreading shots all over the target. It was a very accurate load that did the terrible grouping. At first I thought it might be the usual suspects, scope, rings, bases, guard screws; but checking them, they were all fine. I shot the scope on another rifle, and it worked perfectly.
So, I zeroed in on the barrel. First cleaning with Sweets told me I might be on the right track, as patches came out totally green/blue. I then did the JB Bore Paste scrub, and will take the rifle out to see if that did the job. Don't know yet.
 
Keep working 'til the patches come out clean. I figure scrubbing is WAY cheaper than a new barrel !! All I've got to lose is some effort & time.
Mark
 
Originally Posted By: mark shubertKeep working 'til the patches come out clean. I figure scrubbing is WAY cheaper than a new barrel !! All I've got to lose is some effort & time.
Mark

Mark,

Thanks. I'll be headed out to the range today to see if it shoots or not...
 
When bores get older, they can be a real [beeep] to get clean, especially factory chrome moly barrels.

Using a plastic or bronze bristle brush, saturate the brush with JB and brush 25 strokes re-applying the JB every 8 or so strokes.

Then push 6-/ patches soaked with your favorite bore solvent, dry out with dry patches soaked with ligher fluid.

Next use a really good copper solvent on the bore to make sure that you have got out all the copper.

Next, measure the seating depth. When you get to the point where the 55g flat base spitzer will not touch the lands and the bullet be in the case, you know the barrel is on it's last leg.

I when the leade gets real long, I will go to a Sierra 55g Semi point (which is as accurate as berger match bullets) or the 63g Sierra Semi point. These bullets have more bearing surface and you may be able to get to the lands with them. A bullet can only jump so far before it gets started crooked. I can only guess that the bullet that has more bearing surface helps in a rough bore.

Older bores need cleaning more often and very thuroughly. As their accuracy becomes hit and miss, it is time to think of sending it back to the factory for a new barrel. I think that ruger will install a new stainless barrel on the rifle for approximately $180, and I would insist on one of their stainless barrels. Ruger's new Stainless barrels are really fantastic barrels on the dozen or so that I have seen in a variety of calibers, and they clean up as easily as my custom Hart, Lilja, Pac Nor, and Shilen barrels.

Good luck!
 
Originally Posted By: ackleymanWhen bores get older, they can be a real [beeep] to get clean, especially factory chrome moly barrels.

Using a plastic or bronze bristle brush, saturate the brush with JB and brush 25 strokes re-applying the JB every 8 or so strokes.

Then push 6-/ patches soaked with your favorite bore solvent, dry out with dry patches soaked with ligher fluid.

Next use a really good copper solvent on the bore to make sure that you have got out all the copper.

Next, measure the seating depth. When you get to the point where the 55g flat base spitzer will not touch the lands and the bullet be in the case, you know the barrel is on it's last leg.

I when the leade gets real long, I will go to a Sierra 55g Semi point (which is as accurate as berger match bullets) or the 63g Sierra Semi point. These bullets have more bearing surface and you may be able to get to the lands with them. A bullet can only jump so far before it gets started crooked. I can only guess that the bullet that has more bearing surface helps in a rough bore.

Older bores need cleaning more often and very thuroughly. As their accuracy becomes hit and miss, it is time to think of sending it back to the factory for a new barrel. I think that ruger will install a new stainless barrel on the rifle for approximately $180, and I would insist on one of their stainless barrels. Ruger's new Stainless barrels are really fantastic barrels on the dozen or so that I have seen in a variety of calibers, and they clean up as easily as my custom Hart, Lilja, Pac Nor, and Shilen barrels.

Good luck!

Good info here!!

Thanks for the posting.
 
The easiest way to get a barrel clean is to cover a bore brush (nylon or bronze, doesn't really matter) with a patch soaked in your solvent of choice (I like KG-1 Carbon Remover, or General Motors Top Engine Cleaner, but most of them out there do a good job on carbon), and run it down the bore 4-5 times. Push a clean patch through the bore a couple times, followed by a patch or two soaked in degreaser (Brakleen is the same as GunBlaster, but without the chlorine and a whole lot cheaper). Let the degreaser evaporate completely, then fill the bore and chamber with WipeOut foaming bore cleaner. Let it sit over night. Patch dry the next day, followed by a patch lightly wet with your favorite bore oil (I like Kroil, but Rem Oil is good) followed by 2-3 dry patches.

I own my own Hawkeye borescope. This method works on new, old, or in-between barrels.....100% of the time.

Mike
 
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