Anyone done their own grind to fit recoil pad? What brand?

Rick James

New member
First I guess I'm wondering what you guys think are the better brand recoil pads that are available in a grind to fit style. I've seen that Decelerator, Kick EEZ, and Limbsaver all have grind to fit options, but I'm wondering which is the better pad, and why?

Also, how difficult are these to fit? I've read the online instruction manuals, and I'm not sure how difficult they really are to get done right. I'm curious to hear from someone that has actually done one.
 
The grind to fit pads aren't near as easy as the manufacturers would lead you to believe unless the stock is new or being refinished...
IMO you really need to do the final sanding with the pad installed to assure a perfectly flush fit...
Once again,,, JMO
The limbsaver is awfully hard to beat...

Either way,, get one of the instalation fixtures that Midway sells..
You'll be glad you did...
Good Luck
 
Originally Posted By: RePeteThe grind to fit pads aren't near as easy as the manufacturers would lead you to believe unless the stock is new or being refinished...
IMO you really need to do the final sanding with the pad installed to assure a perfectly flush fit...
Once again,,, JMO
The limbsaver is awfully hard to beat...

Either way,, get one of the instalation fixtures that Midway sells..
You'll be glad you did...
Good Luck

+1
Fitting recoil pads so they look good is not a simple matter.
 
I've done a couple of Limbsavers. They are not that tough if you have the installation jig. Without it, you will have to grind and file while it is on the stock and it is difficult to do without scratching up the wood. Doing two more this weekend.

Fast Ed
 
I have done a number of pads kick-eez, pachmayer and Hi-Viz are nice to work with. A table top sander is ideal with fine sandpaper. If you have a belt sander you can also chuck it up in a vise upside down (sounds funny but that is what I did the first time. Drill out the old butt plate holes and fill with 1/4 inch oak dowel and wood glue. Mount the pad, true it up carefully, scribe the circumference of the butt into the pad with a real sharp scribe. Remove the pad and chalk that line with chalk and blow off the excess. At the toe end of the pad you'll clearly see where the bottom of the toe of the butt is but leave the entire bottom for now so that you'll have room to work the natural slope of the stock (make sure to get a long enough pad to do this. Many are around 5 inches so I usually shoot for a pad of 5.5 inches. The name of the game in this is that you only get one chance if you move too aggressively and remove too much pad you are done unless you have a smaller gun you can use this ruined pad on. Just grind up right to the very edge of the line and check your fit. If in doubt check your fit. There is a video on you tube on the Midway USA channel that is helpful. You will get 99% of the grinding done with the machine but the 1% left is the real work. Bolt the pad on when you are as close as you dare and wrap the butt along the edge of the pad with a single layer of duct tape carefully covering the wood. In the 3 pads I mentioned the base of the pad will grind off by hand with 100 grit fairly quickly, keep shaping until it’s flush with the tape. On the soft rubber part I use nothing more than 120 grit on a sanding block (kick-ezz will get surface tears if you get too aggressive. When you get everything looking pretty true switch the duct tape to masking tape but remember the duct tape is much more protective and the masking wont suffer sandpaper very long. Its really there as a height measure and a slight protectant. I then switch to scotch tape for the final base finish. The Toe I shape with my table top belt sander and I do it by eye. The fixture you can buy may be very helpful but I have developed my own system. This is just my way of doing things. My personal opinion is that Hi-Viz and Kick-eez come off the same assembly line since they work identical to me. I have no preference of these three the all work easily for me. Just stay with finer grits and take your time.
 
You'll do well if you use a jig to help with the install, that and freezing the pad to do the finishing will make for a professional looking installation with not a lot of time and effort. I use a belt sander, Sears has them on sale regularly, they're great for home projects as well as gunsmithing.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=658338

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921514000P?keyword=bench+sander

http://www.limbsaver.com/2009/products/firearms/recoil_pads/grind/index.php#nine
 
Originally Posted By: Shawn_BI have done a number of pads kick-eez, pachmayer and Hi-Viz are nice to work with. A table top sander is ideal with fine sandpaper. If you have a belt sander you can also chuck it up in a vise upside down (sounds funny but that is what I did the first time. Drill out the old butt plate holes and fill with 1/4 inch oak dowel and wood glue. Mount the pad, true it up carefully, scribe the circumference of the butt into the pad with a real sharp scribe. Remove the pad and chalk that line with chalk and blow off the excess. At the toe end of the pad you'll clearly see where the bottom of the toe of the butt is but leave the entire bottom for now so that you'll have room to work the natural slope of the stock (make sure to get a long enough pad to do this. Many are around 5 inches so I usually shoot for a pad of 5.5 inches. The name of the game in this is that you only get one chance if you move too aggressively and remove too much pad you are done unless you have a smaller gun you can use this ruined pad on. Just grind up right to the very edge of the line and check your fit. If in doubt check your fit. There is a video on you tube on the Midway USA channel that is helpful. You will get 99% of the grinding done with the machine but the 1% left is the real work. Bolt the pad on when you are as close as you dare and wrap the butt along the edge of the pad with a single layer of duct tape carefully covering the wood. In the 3 pads I mentioned the base of the pad will grind off by hand with 100 grit fairly quickly, keep shaping until it’s flush with the tape. On the soft rubber part I use nothing more than 120 grit on a sanding block (kick-ezz will get surface tears if you get too aggressive. When you get everything looking pretty true switch the duct tape to masking tape but remember the duct tape is much more protective and the masking wont suffer sandpaper very long. Its really there as a height measure and a slight protectant. I then switch to scotch tape for the final base finish. The Toe I shape with my table top belt sander and I do it by eye. The fixture you can buy may be very helpful but I have developed my own system. This is just my way of doing things. My personal opinion is that Hi-Viz and Kick-eez come off the same assembly line since they work identical to me. I have no preference of these three the all work easily for me. Just stay with finer grits and take your time.

Shawn,

Good posting!!
I've only done one pad instal, and will let a gunsmith do any more that I need handled. I did get the job done right, but the time, effort and hard work required left me with nothing but admiration for people who do the job right. I used a belt sander and a B-Square Fixture on the one I did.
 
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Thanks Martyn, and thanks wrongtarget for the tip on freezing the pad I'll give that a try its that last finishing that makes the job so much work.
 
I've done a few and like all have said it takes some time. It is far easier to do one when you are planning to finish or refinish a stock anyway. I use a 6" belt sander and made my own jig.

Good instructions there Shawn.......
 
I've done a number of them. I like to bring the pad down close with either a belt sander or a drum chucked up in my drill press. But I like to do the final fitting with a palm sander. The palm sander will remove grinding marks on the pad and it works fairly quickly, but not to fast. Working a pad down to fast will almost guarentee that you'll hit and scar the stock finish. The sand paper should be a fairly open grit so it can efficiently clean itself. Tape the stock up close and work slowly. If you are using one of the soft pads be aware of this. The hard rubber pad base next to the stock will work down very nicely, but the softer pad material will "pillow" out a bit and will take some extra work to make a professional looking finished job. If you can freeze the pad this is the time to do it.
 
I've done several Decelerators as well as removed a few factory pads, cut the stocks down, and refit the pads.

Easiest way to tell a "rookie" fit a pad is to not have the bottom of the pad follow the lines of the heel of the stock....
 
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