Leupold Boone and Crocket reticle

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8) Look at the tgt. with the scope and while keeping the x-hair on the uppermost aiming point adjust the magnification until the marks are aligned with their respective reticle stadia points, paying particular attention to the longer range marks.

9) Mark the scope with your new reference mk. that gives the best true reticle to trajectory fit.



When performing step 8 remember the target has to be at the range for the group you are adjusting for.

So if your zero is 200, and you want the next dot at 300, then put the target at 300. The cross hair then has to be on zero, then move the power ring till the 300 yard dot is on the 300 yard group with the cross hair on zero.

Now for the 400 yard dot you will have to take the target to 400 yards. Check it there and see if the 400 yard dot is close to the 400 yard group and so on.

If the bullet is following the dots perfectly the dots will line up after the 300 yard step at each range. Usually this is not the case, but they do get close enough that a dead center hold will be all you need.

Your other option is to do each step, changing the scope power for each range, and marking the scope for each distance. This for me is a little silly since you never know what range your shot will be at, and while your adjusting the scope, the dog is busting you.



Vogelsong step 6 above converts the true bullet drop at each range to inch per 100 yds. This way u don't have to adjust the power ring for each distance at each distance. The whole idea is to get the best trajectory to reticle fit as an avg. of each distance. That's why u adjust bullet drop for what the bullet drop will look like thru the optic at 100 yds. IMO, this is the best way to do it since all the IPHY bullet drops are on one sheet of paper.



/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smiliesmack.gif See what happens when ya don't read the whole post.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/angry-smiley-055.gif How many times do I have to tell you guys about that? Now don't let it happen again. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
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For those of you who have the Boone and Crocket reticles at what power on the scope ring does the small and large triangles appear. I am thinking of buying one but don't want the power setting on the large traingle being to low not allowing me to do as well on the longer shot



Just happened to look at the subtensions of the stadia on those reticles and the smaller triangles should be at whatever power equates to 80% of the optics highest power (assuming that the magnification is calibrated relatively correct).
 
I have the 3.5-10x50 variant. Both my calibers, 223 and 308, use the little arrow. When I line up the dot with the little arrow, the power ring is approximately 8x.
 
I have both a VH and a B&C reticle on two Leupolds. SS' method is the best way to learn how your load performs with either...

If you want to "cut to the chase", zero your chosen 400yd stadia FIRST, then see where your closer stadia hit at 300 and 200 yds.

Case in point:

HOGG stated above that his rifle is zeroed @ 200yds and is 2" high @ 300, 400, and 500 yds. (nice rig, b.t.w!) IMHO, if he zeroed a @ 400yds, he'd be better served...

By simply clicking DOWN TWO clicks on his elevation knob, he'd be ZEROED @ 400yds (one 1/4" click= 1" @ 400yds)
and his subsequent yardage stadia marks would correspond follows (according to his previous data above)...

200yds: 1" LOW
300yds: 1/2" HIGH
400yds: ZERO
500yds: 1/2" LOW

This is the beauty of either reticle when set up optimally. All of the stadia impacting within 1" out to 500yds is pretty darn good!!! And knowing that fact makes those "in between" yardage shots easier to compensate for...

By all means, use what works for you...
 
"Knock-emdown" so you are saying shoot it at 400 and make the adjustments from there. The only problem is to get the stadia lines to work out for estimated drop I have to shoot it on 5 power which may make it difficult to get a good idea where it impacts. I shot it at 300 and it shoot a three inch group that was right on. I used the four hundred mark and it shot right on as to what the serria book says drop will be at 400. I plan to shoot it at 400 soon.
 
Since you mentioned using 5X magnification, I'm guessin' you are talking about the 2.5-8X36 scope and using the small triangle to fit your bullet trajectory?

If so, and you actually plan on using the reticle for shooting @ 400 and 500yds, I'd be determining my stadia zeros with the power ring on max (8X) setting, regardless what any manuals say...

We can analyze this stuff until the cows come home, but ya still gotta prove it in the field on paper before you go off trying to shoot a live animal in a hunting situation. Not accusing you of doing such, just making sure you know that there are NO shortcuts in extended range shooting, despite all the marketing "hooplah" with the various ballistic reticles. They can be a great tool, if you understand how to use them to your advantage...

What kind of stick is this scope going on?
What load are you shooting?
What do you plan to hunt/shoot with it?
 
I was looking at the Leupold scopes to buy, currently I have the Burris Ballistic plex reticle. Because of the information I have received I am going to keep my Burris I am confident that when I shoot it at 400 I will be very close or at least close enough to adjust the zero to get the best aiming points. Thanks everyone for saving me $600.00
 
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If so, and you actually plan on using the reticle for shooting @ 400 and 500yds, I'd be determining my stadia zeros with the power ring on max (8X) setting, regardless what any manuals say...

We can analyze this stuff until the cows come home, but ya still gotta prove it in the field on paper before you go off trying to shoot a live animal in a hunting situation. Not accusing you of doing such, just making sure you know that there are NO shortcuts in extended range shooting, despite all the marketing "hooplah" with the various ballistic reticles. They can be a great tool, if you understand how to use them to your advantage...





That's exactly right. That 2.5-8x is a great scope but when u start decreasing power it would definitely lose it's appeal pretty quick. I have a VH reticle in an optic on a specialty pistol that shoots a VLD bullet at 2500 mv. That load doesn't even come close to even hundred yd. intervals for the reticle (my windage is 1/2 of the subtensions as designed). I just run a ballistic program for my load note the stadia zeros, go out and see if they are as calcd., tweak it if necessary, recalculate the dope in 50 yd. intervals, and put it all on a sticker in a Butler Creek scope cap cover for the most efficent system of reference i could think of, without having to get out of position to reference and rereference it.

If i were setting up that optic for long-range big game i'd tweak power a little if needed but not much. If that didn't work i'd go right to the system above. For anything smaller than big game i'd use the above system.
 
Having the scope power on 5 actually is perfect thats where I put it when I sit down to call, the area I hunt is wide open. I will try to see if I can do much on 5 at 400 yards. Maybe the 300 yard mark is the max distance I can shoot coyotes. Thats plenty distance for all the variables that come into play, distance estimation, wind direction. and a little shake makes it a tough shot
 
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