RR 2 stage trigger install help

I'm not sure how it would be done without removing the safety selector bar... I know there is not enough room in my DPMS...

Removing it is not a big problem, it just necessitates removing the grip and retention spring/detent.
 
If I remember right I didn't take it off on my last changeout because I was feeling lazy, but it had to go under the safety bar in just a so-so fashion.
 
Has Rock river changed their trigger up?

My hammer does not look like this one that they show on AR-15 as being a RR

triggerinstall2.jpg


Mine has a different shape than what would be the top of that picture.

I got it in, and according to the RR safety checks it is functioning correctly.
 
The one in the picture sure looks like mine. But I don't have one that's not in a gun right now. Here's a pic off of the RR site

RRmatchtrig.jpg
 
Quote:
Has Rock river changed their trigger up?

My hammer does not look like this one that they show on AR-15 as being a RR

triggerinstall2.jpg


Mine has a different shape than what would be the top of that picture.

I got it in, and according to the RR safety checks it is functioning correctly.



That's what mine looks like.
 
Boy, I'm almost positive that I did it without taking out the selector,Thought that I had to get the flat part of the selector just right for the hammer to slide back. Could be wrong and I was just having another hallucination.

YellowHammer, did it come in the usual plastic bag with the yellow/orange instructions? I have always purchased mine from Ar15sales.

It's been approx 6 months since I purchased one, so if they did make any changes since then I wouldn't know.
 
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for future reference you have to pull the safety, just turn it half way between fire and safe and push it out. no need to remove the hand grip with the rra
2 stage.
 
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Mike Milli tells me that Rock River has changed the hammer forging, and that is what I have since it is a brand new one.



That's right, the last batch of Rock River triggers that I received had the different shaped hammer. The rest is pretty much the same, but the tip of the hammer is noticeably different.

Whether or not you have to pull the safety selector in order to remove or replace the Rock River trigger depends on many things. The make of lower receiver, forging marks on the trigger itself and the pin geometry of the lower receiver to mention a few. It seems like you can go through a dozen of the same lower receivers and be able to remove and replace the trigger without removing the safety, then you will get one of the exact same brand that just won't quite make it.

Not an exact science, but it's really not a big deal to remove the grip and safety.
 
I have been notified by Rock River that there is a "hold" on all small parts leaving the factory. I had bolts, upper-receivers, mid-length free float tubes and their two-stage triggers on order. For the time being, Rock River is keeping all of their parts for their own production.

I don't know when, or if, I will get my next batch of parts from them. All I know is that I have been though two of these "AR buying frenzies" before and when I don't have a reliable parts supply, I have to do the same as Rock River has done: Keep all of my parts for building customer rifles.

When things loosen up in the industry, I'll post that parts are available again.
 
I got two of they're new triggers and installed them in my rifles last week. Took the grips off and the safeties out to install. Keep track of the long skinny spring inside the edge of the grip, sometimes they'll jump out when taking the grip off (and make sure it doesn't get kinked when tightening the grip back on). Keep track of the detent thing, that slides out of the hole that the spring was in also, easy to lose. Use lots of oil on the pins and holes, try to align them best you can, the oversized pins take a little bit more than taps to get them in.
Both rifles took about 10 minutes each,not having done any before, but had to slightly modify the top of the RR hammer in my .243 AR.
 
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