Cleaning Firearms With A Case Hardened Finish

fitz

New member
I just read that you should not use solvent-based cleaners on firearms with a case hardened finish. So what should be used? Thanks in advance.
 
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I just read that you should not use solvent-based cleaners on firearms with a case hardened finish. So what should be used? Thanks in advance.



Real case hardened are not affected by solvents, but there are a growing umber of guns that are colored with a chemical process, and what you read "might" be referring to those.

True bone color case hardening is just like bluing and it is just as tough.

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If you will, post the source,,, I've had several weapons that have have had case hardened parts and always cleaned them with my normal regimen and never noticed any problem...

It would be an interesting read..
 
The Ruger Vaquero SA revolvers and a few other use a dye to simulate color case hardening, I have been told that to long an exposure to some solvents can degrade or remove these dyes. I have three Vaqueros and have never had a problem. I use Hoppes, ML 10, and a few other comercial cleaners and solvents, including Butche's Bore shine. A few years back I also heard that Hoppes #9 would or could cause nickle finished, firearms to start flakeing, I do noit own any nickle finished firearms so I have never tested that rumor either. The internet is full of assinine rumor some has a slight basis in fact, some is totally made up for what ever reason.
FWIW Just don't soak, or leave the solvent on tha Case hardened part for a long time. wipe on, wipe off, oil. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
 
Solvent won't have any effect on true case-hardened steel parts. I cleaned my Model 94 with Hoppes and other solvents for 40 years and it still looks the same. You do want a light film of oil on it, or you'll get rust. The case hardening is just a "crust" with extra carbon in molecular bond with the steel, not a coloring or dye.
If it's a "simulated" case hardened look, all bets are off. That's a cosmetic finish, and there's most likely something out there that will change the appearance. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif
What I would use is Weapons Shield CLP, that works better than anything I've ever tried and it's not an aggressive chemical agent.
 
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Old Turtle,

Here's the link to the STI website. See the important note.

http://www.stiguns.com/guns/Texican/Texican.html



I read it but I don't buy it - I own several real Colt's Single actions that have bone color case hardening that are older than dirt... and they have been cleaned (and drowned) with Hoppe's #9, and there is no loss of color.

It's garbage. They also do not say that their color is from bone case hardening, which is what the real guns use.

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They also do not say that their color is from bone case hardening



I followed the link to Turnbull Restoration and they do say "Color Case Hardening - Original Bone Pack Method" there. I guess that would be the guy to ask about any "solvent warnings", I sure couldn't find anything like that on his site. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif
 
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They also do not say that their color is from bone case hardening



I followed the link to Turnbull Restoration and they do say "Color Case Hardening - Original Bone Pack Method" there. I guess that would be the guy to ask about any "solvent warnings", I sure couldn't find anything like that on his site. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif



I didn't see mention of Turnbull - they are probably the best in the business.


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