My R-15 is junk! UPDATE

Bobcat,

I'm sure you have tried this but the same thing happened to me. I changed ammo brands and have not had a problem since. Just a suggestion it worked for me. I think the primers in the other ammo was junk.

Thanks Jay.
 
I have a bolt gun I'll trade you straight across!

I love my R15.

It sounds like a fixable problem. I'd be cautious about monkeying up your warranty, get with Remmy right away and get it straightened out.
 
That would be really frustrating, especially now with hunting seasons beginning. I had a few light strikes on primers too, but only after I did the "15 minute internet trigger job" on my rifle. Even then I only had trouble with military ammo that has harder primers. Mine works fine with my reloads which is what I shoot anyway. What about the store you bought it from, would they help with the problem??

Hope you get it figured out.

Jim
 
I asked a question one time about switching bolts out of different ar's and i got a but reaming from some guys on here about how each bolt is head spaced to the barrel? I dont know if this is true or not i have never tried it. Lee
 
If/when you send the gun in include a couple of the cartridges that went "Click" and at least one that went "Bang". Or a macro digital picture of the primer impression(s).
 
make sure you have the FP in right, on the right side of the FP retaining pin. Make sure the FP base is not gunked up, then check to see if your bolt is locking into the chamber- not being held back by a bad chamber job, then it is cheap to check to see that the FP is not faulted, like shortened or chipped on the end. Easy fix if you know what to look for. Interesting- keep us posted.
 
The first thing I would do is measure the firing pin protrusion. It should be between .026" and .032".
Also use a case shoulder length gauge to compare a fired and a ready to fire case.

You also hinted at a possible failure to feed problem? Totally different problem from a failure to fire a chambered round.

Jack
 
It's easy when you assemble the trigger assembly to get the hammer spring upside down. Because of that, it doesn't throw the hammer forward with enough force to ignite the primer. Go to AR15.com, there's a pinned thread on the installation of lower parts. Pay special attention to the hammer spring then compare that to how the factory assembled yours. I'd bet it's not installed correctly.
 
I hereby offer my Mini 14 in trade,,, it wont hit what you aim at, but at least you will hear the Bang,,, and see dust fly somewhere every time you pull the trigger.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smiliesmack.gif Just kiddin... good luck with your dilemma ! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
 
Could be your bolt is not completely closed. You know, looks closed, but in reality, is not.

A couple of yrs ago, I walked up on two coyotes. I sat down put my rifle on my sticks & prepared to thump one. AR rifle "clicked" instead of banged.

Later I realized, my rifle had. Dirty receiver bolt channels. Bolt was gunked up abit as well.
Even with a clean/lubed bolt. If the receiver [bolt channels] are, carboned up. That, can/will stop the bolt from completey closing. Resulting in, rifle clicks, but no go bang.
 
My guess also would be the firing pin is on the wrong side of the keeper pin, rare, but it's certainly not unheard of.

Remove the bolt carrier and check the firing pin for proper assembly, making certain the firing pin is held into place by the firing pin keeper pin. Then check the pin protrusion as Jack stated. If it is damaged or too short you will have the problems you have described.

Lee, not all bolts are headspaced to the barrel if they are mil-spec. Some barrel suppliers will provide you a matched bolt but it is not a problem to swap out bolts unless the old bolt has lots of rounds fired thru it. If an old bolt has experienced excessive wear and you install that old bolt into a new barrel, then headspace should be checked.
Bobcats rifle has only a few rounds thru it so swapping a bolt would be no problem.


I would also be trying some different ammo. If you are using reloads, you may be experiencing improper shoulder setback which is crucial to AR's. You have to move that shoulder back enough for the round to fully chamber or the bolt will not go into full battery. This is a very common reloading problem even with very experienced reloaders when new to the AR platform. Once the resizing die is screwed down a turn or two, things tend to go better.
 
I don't have an answer but one poster said the AR was easier to troubleshoot than a bolt. I find that very hard to believe. I think bolts are as simple as they come. Don
 
One of the first things to learn on an AR is to let the bolt slam the first round into the chamber...

You can't baby the bolt to load a round. A friend had similar problems trying to quietly load his AR when we first got out of the truck. Given this is a new gun the tolerances could be tight and the bolt isn't locking up. Best to send it in to Remington and have it fixed right. In the long run it will be better for you!

I agree about Remington probably not sending you a new rifle, it sucks, but that's just the way gov regulations affect all of us.
 
Quote:
The first thing I would do is measure the firing pin protrusion. It should be between .026" and .032".
Also use a case shoulder length gauge to compare a fired and a ready to fire case.





This would be the first thing I look at regarding your FTF problem. If not that there is only a couple things it could be. Has to be something simple.

Also, you don't by chance have excess lube or grease on the firing pin do you? Sometimes too much of that stuff can actually slow your firing pin down enough to inhibit the velocity of the firing pin not allowing it to strike the primer hard enough to ignite it. Especially if it's cold out.

I think it's probably Byrons fault though. He probably told Bushmaster to use shorter firing pins on them "predator" rifles of his. Make him send you one of the complete bolt carriers out of one of his ARs. He's got a dang closet full. Have him give you a few free guided hunts too. Least he could do. lol! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Good hunting
 
You won't need a new rifle.

If it was my problem ..... I would remove the bolt and get a brush capable of reaching the recesses in the bolt lock up area of the barrel .... and alternate brushing with Gun Scrubber or similar.

Then work on the bolt ..... do the same (disassemble only as far as your are comfortable.

I would reassemble dry and try it just a bit.

If it works or not .... then lube with (my favorite .....) Tetra gun ... the light lube and cleaner version.



AND if all else fails .... I offer my very dear to me CZ 527 American in .223 in trade for your "junk" rifle.

But alas .... another Washington-ite beat me to the trade solution .........

Three 44s
 
My RR did the same thing once. Turned out, I had cleaned the hole for the firing pin with a Q tip and some cotton cot stuck in there. Kept the firing pin from going forward all the way.
 
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